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2015 Silverado Won't Start!


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Hey all.  Hoping for some help!  Started my truck this morning for the first time in about a week. When I pulled out of my driveway the DIC told me to service pretty much every system in the truck (trailer brakes...no trailer attached, Stabilitrak, power steering...drive with care, 4x4, etc) and the steering wheel became ridiculously heavy with speed and tach both at 0 while moving/running.  I threw a brand new battery in it but still nothing.  The video below is AFTER the new battery was installed.   It's like the ECM isn't getting 12v or ground. The fuel gauge shows empty, which it's not, the trans isn't showing what gear it's in, and there's absolutely no cranking. All fuses are fine.

 

 

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Clean and tighten battery ground at engine block.. Sounds like a low voltage concern.. clean and tighten ground wires fom battery to engine block , battery to fuse block.. don't over look any.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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6 minutes ago, Hillwood said:

Clean and tighten battery ground at engine block.. Sounds like a low voltage concern.. clean and tighten ground wires fom battery to engine block , battery to fuse block.. don't over look any.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 

Good idea!!

Check all grounds.

:)

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Hmm. That's a tough one. 

 

You could have an internal alternator fault. You might try disconnecting it, to see if that helps. 

 

To check your ground, you can take a small wire and attach it to the negative battery terminal (not the cable, but the actual terminal itself), with both cables hooked up to the battery. Then connect that small wire to the body and the engine. Then start using electrical stuff, like the starter, head lights, etc. If the small wire gets warm or hot, or the electrical components work properly, then you definitely have a ground issue. I would also grab a volt meter, and start probing stuff. If you put the negative probe on the negative battery terminal, and probe the brake light or headlights (when they are tuned on), are you getting 12+? If so, is it constant or does the voltage wander around? You might also look at any fuseable links and any main power relays. You can swap relays around to test them. 

 

Wiring is not much fun.... 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by starman8tdc
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      I hate to say it, but you might be looking at a diagnostic shop. Running low on options. 

 

      If you go down that path, try to find one that will guarantee a diagnosis without exceeding 1 hour ($100-$150). Most won't, but some will. 

 

      Some repair shops will charge you $900 in diagnostics, and then say it needs a $1200 part. Then $2100 later, the problem is still there. Then they say: Oh, well that part needed to be replaced, but there must be another part that is bad as well. We will put our diagnostic guys back on it (after you pay this first bill). 

 

     I have seen people spend thousands on diagnostics and parts, with no remedy. 

 

     Not trying to scare you, just trying to caution you.

 

     Call 5 or 6 shops and talk to them a bit before you choose one. 

 

     If I can think of any other tests you could try, I will post it. 

 

     Good luck. 

 

 

P.S.

 

https://repairpal.com/obd-ii-code-u0100-lost-communication-with-ecm-pcm-a

 

https://www.obd-codes.com/u0100

Edited by starman8tdc
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