Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

A guy would think that a quality (not a cheap one) lift block and leveling kit would have come with directions..... But mine didn't.  Found generic directions on their websight that say to use the factory spec.  Anybody know what that is in a '18 sierra 1500?  I've installed over a dozn sets of u bolts  but they were mostly on 3/4-1 ton (fords) and they were all in the 135ft/lb area.  I think the last haf ton 1/2" bolts  I did were 90 ft/lbs.. I'm seeing things online that say these may only be 65/75 lbs. Seems light?  I'd rather not say the brand I purchased and have it look poorly for them.  I'll post pics when it's done though. Thanks 

Posted

Fairly confident it's 80 ft/lbs.  That's what I tightened mine to after I determined they weren't tight from the factory.

Posted

I looked it up 2 weeks ago but can't remember. Something silly like 60 then go back and 70 or 75. But there is also posts stating the u bolts are one time use. Some agree some people don't. Anyway I feel for the money people should just buy the larger aftermarket ones and there spec is 120 and states they are re usable. just my opinion 

Posted

I actually just found instruction for the kit I purchased, listed through another vendor, and it says 120.   With the thick washers and deep nuts, and lubricated threads. So that's what I'll do.  I know I use to take similar sized U -bolts to 200ft/lbs, 20-25 years ago, when I as younger and didn't know much.  I remember borrowing my uncles wrench, because it went to 250,and  mine only to 150.   I also had the rear axle/springs etc out of that truck atleast 3x, had it for four or five years, and never replaced the U bolts. So they were way over torqued, several times. It had significantly more weight  and traction than this truck too. Not as much Hp though. 

Posted
11 hours ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

I looked it up 2 weeks ago but can't remember. Something silly like 60 then go back and 70 or 75. But there is also posts stating the u bolts are one time use. Some agree some people don't. Anyway I feel for the money people should just buy the larger aftermarket ones and there spec is 120 and states they are re usable. just my opinion 

Any aftermarket recommendation?  I'd much prefer a multi-use U-bolt.

Posted
6 minutes ago, Nitrousbird said:

Any aftermarket recommendation?  I'd much prefer a multi-use U-bolt.

No I didn't buy new ones yet. Had I researched it ahead of time I would have. If anyone comes up with a link please post up. Believe it or not this is a HUGE issue lift/lower guys run into. Stock with lowered and spacer/leaf removed you run out of threads on the u bolts. big lift with shims(gm recall) one u bolt is shorter. 

I will add this to my list of parts to order..

Posted

@1SLOW1500 agreed.  I intend to level by removing the block and doing 2" drop shackles.  Mine's a Z71 truck but I find trucks look silly with front lifts to level without larger tires, which I'm not looking to do.  Front lifts also have the potential for problems and warranty concerns - less likely with dropping the rear.

  • Like 1
Posted

My lift block u bolts had a different thread pitch than oem, much finer - given that I don't think the oem torque spec applies.  

 

I know they were extremely tight stock on my 18, my cordless impact had a tough time taking them off.  When I put them on I think I went 100 or 120. My memory fails me at the moment.  

Posted

I’m pretty certain my AAL instructions said 90ft/lbs. I reused the oem bolts because I figured with the AAL I’d be tightening the nut on different threads.  

Posted

Mine are on with 120, as of tonight.   120 was two turns tighter than 100.  Stock ones were not very tight. I removed  them with my 1/4" impact driver. Given, it also removed the wheels, and I know I had those at 140ft/lbs.   little Milwaukee fuel impact is handy.  

Posted
6 hours ago, rjpoog1989 said:

I’m pretty certain my AAL instructions said 90ft/lbs. I reused the oem bolts because I figured with the AAL I’d be tightening the nut on different threads.  

It's not about the threads, it's about the bolt itself. Although I know lots of shops/dealers that reuse those bolts too. 

Posted
8 hours ago, Stronger800 said:

It's not about the threads, it's about the bolt itself. Although I know lots of shops/dealers that reuse those bolts too. 

I thought the tourque stretched the threads.

 

On my old truck I used new ones, but this truck isn’t that old.  I’m not too worried about reusing oem.

Posted
15 hours ago, Stronger800 said:

Mine are on with 120, as of tonight.   120 was two turns tighter than 100.  Stock ones were not very tight. I removed  them with my 1/4" impact driver. Given, it also removed the wheels, and I know I had those at 140ft/lbs.   little Milwaukee fuel impact is handy.  

One hell of a 1/4" impact driver!!  I used a 1/2" impact wrench and it was having a tough time removing my stock ones.  It takes the lug nuts off with less issue.

 

I've heard a lot of people say their stock ones were loose, my truck is only a few months old so perhaps they fixed that issue.

Posted
On 12/26/2018 at 8:56 AM, Nitrousbird said:

Any aftermarket recommendation?  I'd much prefer a multi-use U-bolt.

I agree....... we'd appreciate links to quality aftermarket U-bolts from anyone whose done the research.

thanks!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can someone tell me where the video processing module is in a 2023 Silverado? I'm getting conflicting results that it's in the front passenger area or the rear passenger area behind the seat.
    • Yes I agree, its what amounts to free advertising to let people know about his UOA testing company, and not that there is anything wrong with that but certainly that is a motivator for putting out videos about the science of oil as well as other topics such as oil and air filtration etc. The interesting part I found with his last video is not only the physics behind the reason for the varying wear due to a diesels working torque range causing more bearing load and that higher viscosity oil is of benefit, it was also that the chemistry behind the GM Dexos 0W-20 and the Mobil Dexos licensed 0W-20 are far enough apart that its showing up with a difference in wear even though the two oils are matched in viscosity and in that comparison viscosity was not having the finger pointed at it.    There are a few youtubers out there or one anyway that I have watched a bit of who has gone through the pains of accessing various countries manuals for a certain engine platform and while in the US/Canada it may say use 0W-20 or what have you for some Toyota product, in some other countries it sings a very different tune for the very same engine with the typical traditional oil viscosity/ambient temperature charts to help choose which oil viscosity is correct for the conditions the vehicle will be used in and in some cases its taken an engine in a US manual that states only use 0W-20 as per warranty coverage and yet that same engine in certain other countries may have up to a 15W-40 etc oil option that meets the spec. Another words the guy who is driving through Death Valley or Phoenix and south weather at 120f is often being fed a line of bs by the US system that has forced vehicle companies to restrict the warranty to a specific low viscosity oil for anterior reasons as well as the long drain interval suggestions.    Thankfully youtube is free ( yet anyway ) for viewers to sift through information and of course comes with the good and the bad ( truth and lies ) and we can choose to turn off/not watch what a person finds is bs or just not interested in the topic.         
    • No doubt... But, as someone who doesn't pay for his services, but who has provided a few views/clicks on his Youtube platform, the data around the Mobil oil testing I think does have some value including to "freeloaders" like me.   A lot of what he's doing is likely showing the OE's work in their oil selection, something that many of us had kind of assumed was true all along, a good balance of both excellent protection and efficiency.
    • Lake Speed is drumming up business for his company just by being in the spot-light so he has a vested interest in stoking the 0W-20 fire.  IMO  
    • I knew when I bought my truck that it had off road hill decent or craw control or whatever they call it and rolled my eyes at that but it gets throw on with other options my truck has, I just never had a heads up if the highway speed regular cruise setting had anything to do with the brakes and that took me by surprise. If you've ever been to the top of Pikes Peak and watched those ahead of you on the way down with their brake lights on constantly, one can guess they are probably not gearing down or not enough anyway if their vehicle will allow and a good reason their is a brake check spot part way down where they use an infra red heat gun to check how hot ones brakes are front and rear.    Your right that once one gets out of the front range by Denver and I've not been on that stretch of 285 between Denver and Fairplay myself but I know its high and Fairplay at 10000 feet, Buena Vista at 8000, it drops a bit from there but then your going back up and over the 11000 pass and Durango is at 6500 . So yes your definitely right that 6500 and a lot higher is the theme of going anywhere out in that direction from Denver but hey, the down hill sections give fantastic fuel mileage !.    I don't even look at the fuel pumps for what premium costs here, since I live on a farm and up to this point get fuel delivered I am rarely in front of a fuel pump and when I am, I am often using card lock bulk fuel stations so it tells me what the price is AFTER I buy the fuel. Looking up on gas buddy and converting to US gallons but in Canadian dollars, regular on average of the prices listed was around 5.95 and premium is around 7.00 . That was one reason I did not go for the 6.2 half ton aside from its lack of carrying/towing if one was going by the rule of using premium fuel and until recently one could only buy regular farm gas if playing the few cents off game for farm dyed fuel for a "farm licensed pickup". But yes I hear you on the fuel price difference and like the diesel theme with it often being more expensive then gas it doesn't have quite the charm to it either as it once did although right now here for some reason the price of diesel has come down more so its now inline with the price of regular gas. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...