Jump to content

01 Z71 - towed home with strap, trans doesn't engage.


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello.  My sister has a 2001 Silverado 1500 Z71.  My nephew and I were driving and the the quick connect for the heater core broke.  We towed it home with a strap and put the transmission in neutral and started towing about 35 mph.  After less than a mile the truck started making a grinding noise (engine off) so we pulled over and shifted the transfer case into neutral and continued towing.  

 

When I change the transfer case shift lever on the floor, i hear an electric motor actuate for about two seconds in each position.  Now when I put the truck in gear, it does nothing in drive or reverse.  When in Park, and the transfer case lever in any position, there is no "Park" and I can push the truck several feet.  

 

Did it burn up the clutches within a mile?  I'm puzzled that the Park doesn't work even if the trans was damaged.  Is the transfer case stuck in neutral?  Any other suggestions?

 

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Kevin

Posted
10 minutes ago, damnthetorpedoes said:

Sounds like the t case in still in neutral. Make sure the transmission is set to neutral when you make the transfer case gear change. 

Thanks for the suggestion.  My nephew showed me that the trans needed to be in neutral but still no luck.  

 

The the transfer case, GM 261. Even though the shift lever is on the floor, it still uses an electric motor to engage the gears?

Posted
42 minutes ago, Alloy25 said:

Thanks for the suggestion.  My nephew showed me that the trans needed to be in neutral but still no luck.  

 

The the transfer case, GM 261. Even though the shift lever is on the floor, it still uses an electric motor to engage the gears?

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but I think this is what happened: If you place the transfer case in neutral. The problem with towing automatic transmission vehicles, is that the transmission is not operating, therefore the pump is not pumping fluid throughout the tranny. This results in melted seals & seized brass bushings, because the output shaft is turning, but no oil is present. However, the transfer case is located after the tranny. Placing the transfer case in neutral will disengage the tranny from the drivetrain, thinking you did it too late. Other way would have been to disconnect drive shaft.

Posted
50 minutes ago, Alloy25 said:

Thanks for the suggestion.  My nephew showed me that the trans needed to be in neutral but still no luck.  

 

The the transfer case, GM 261. Even though the shift lever is on the floor, it still uses an electric motor to engage the gears?

Front axles still engaged by the  electric actuators. 

 

There is an explanation about 'dolly towing' in the owners manuals. 

 

This is from a 2004 manual:

 

Two-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Two-wheel-drive vehicles should not be towed with the rear wheels on the ground. Two-wheel-drive transmissions have no provisions for internal lubrication while being towed.
Two-wheel-drive vehicles can be dolly towed with the front wheels on the ground provided that the wheels are straight and the steering column has been locked.

 

Four-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Use the following procedure to tow your vehicle:
1. Drive the vehicle up onto the tow dolly.
2. Shift an automatic transmission to PARK (P), or a manual transmission to FIRST (1).
3. Turn the engine off, but leave the ignition on.
4. Firmly set the parking brake.
5. Securely attach the vehicle being towed to the tow dolly. 

6. Shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL.

See Four-Wheel Drive on page 2-35 for the proper procedure to select the neutral position for your vehicle.
7. Release the parking brake only after the vehicle being towed is firmly attached to the towing vehicle.
8. Turn the ignition off and lock the steering column. 

 

{CAUTION:
Shifting a four-wheel-drive vehicle’s transfer case into NEUTRAL can cause your vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in Park (P) for
an automatic transmission, or if your vehicle is in gear, for a manual transmission. You or others could be injured. Make sure the parking
brake is firmly set before you shift the transfer case to NEUTRAL.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I appreciate all the responses.  Took the truck to a transmission mechanic.  The truck has around 275,000 miles on it.  He said that the 2000 model and year newer, the transfer case uses magnesium aluminum alloy for the housing and it's a little softer and lighter than aluminum.  In combination with the high mileage, he showed me where part of the oil pump rubbed a hole in the case (at the bottom, towards the back) and all the oil drained out except for a few ounces.  Getting the rear transfer case housing and rebuild for $1000.

 

He showed me where the previous person who worked on it added way too much silicone to seal the case.  Silicone clogged up the oil pump sump at the bottom.  The transfer case worked for the last 7 years at least. 

 

He said that the clutches should be fine after only a mile and if it was around 20-30 miles it would have been a problem.  

Posted

The other issue with the truck is that when i drove it home on the interstate several weeks ago with around 1200 lbs in the bed, the transmission fluid hot light came on.  Pushed a little fluid out of the vent at the top which hit the exhaust and smoked a little on the right side.  Pulled over and let it cool.  Did it again about 30 miles later.  Drove fine for 2 week around town.  Coolant and transmission fluid was at the correct level.  Replaced the thermostat earlier in the week because the truck was running too cool and it was sticking open.  

 

Hopped on the interstate last week (when all the above issues occurred) and it spewed quite a bit of fluid out the top of the vent on the transmission (before the quick connect broke).  This time it happened, no lights came on the last 2 times.  We noticed when the transmission is about to spew fluid, the torque converter will unlock and start shifting up and down.  Took only 10 miles this time, with no load in the truck.

 

Having the transmission guy troubleshoot this, but won't have the transfer case finished until later today so he can test drive it.  He said possible torque converter issue not fully locking and building up heat.  Though he said this was unlikely since there wasn't any discoloration of the paint on the TC.  Possibly some valve issue inside the transmission but hasn't gotten that far yet.

 

Transmission was rebuilt about 5 years ago.  

 

Any suggestions?

 

Thanks.

 

 

Posted

The transmission pump is on the input shaft of the transmission.  For the mile you towed it, the transmission was rotating without any fluid being circulated.  I'd be concerned that damage was done to the tranny.  Make sure it gets checked out thoroughly.

Posted

Picked up the truck today.  There was no damage to the transmission from towing it a mile with the transfer case in gear.  He said around 20-30 miles there would be an issue.

 

Ended up rebuilding the transfer case with a new rear housing since part of the oil pump rubbed a hole in the case and all the fluid drained out.

 

Replaced torque converter, TC solenoid, and TC valve and inspected the transmission.  The transmission shop that rebuilt the transmission about 5 years ago installed the TC valve backwards.  He was surprised it would even lock up in overdrive.  the TC has been slipping for awhile and finally got so bad it was overheating.  

 

Quick connect to the heater core broke.  Everything happened within a half hour of each other.  Just a series of unfortunate events...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
    • It is possible to add your own 12v outlet to your truck.  Check out this video:   I verified via GM Upfitters that pin 31 is the same on the 1500 trucks.  The wire is GM part number 84779405.   You can get the GM 12v outlet from Amazon  https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Accessory-Receptacle-25774623-13549530/dp/B0F1H9YRGF EWAY 12 Volt Power Adapter for GM   https://www.amazon.com/EWAY-Chevrolet-Silverado-Cigarette-Ignition/dp/B0915RRW6Q/ref=sr_1_1?   I just haven't figured out a good place to put the 12v outlet in my truck.   Some people are getting USB-C to 12V adapters  https://www.amazon.com/WYMECT-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-Adapter/dp/B0F87WNQKB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa? Not sure if they provide the correct amperage that a device like a tire inflator would need.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...