Will 33x12.5r20 fit on leveled truck?

[Alan Bowman]

I reread the post. 
I ordered a 1.5 body lift.

should clear the tires after that. Do I need shock adapters for the body lift? For the rear shocks?

[MikeBMW]

7 hours ago, Alan Bowman said:

Can you clarify? 
so 2.5 inches in the front they say new upper control arms. 
if I have 2 inches in the front and I put on a 1.5 inch body lift do I need the upper arms? As that would be 3.5 inches?

What were you saying about suspension vs body? They’re different? So I only need new upper arms if I get a 3 inch suspension lift?

Again, a body lift doesn't affect the suspension - go as high as you want if you can do all of the necessary steering and ground issues which result if you go over a 1.5" body lift.
Heck, I had a 6" body lift on my old Chevy - built new shift lever linkage and replaced ground straps as well as lengthening the steering linkage.
A lot more went into the 10" lift. It was fun back in the day.

Edited November 7, 2021 by MikeBMW

[MikeBMW]

2 hours ago, Alan Bowman said:

I reread the post. 
I ordered a 1.5 body lift.

should clear the tires after that. Do I need shock adapters for the body lift? For the rear shocks?

No. The body lift just lifts the body and doesn't affect suspension.
Your only issue with a 1.5" body lift is to be sure your ground straps remain in good shape.
My Zone 1.5" body lift came with a ground strap extension to the frame.
Sorry for the extra post, just a bit of clarification.

Edited November 7, 2021 by MikeBMW

[Alan Bowman]

2 hours ago, MikeBMW said:

No. The body lift just lifts the body and doesn't affect suspension.
Your only issue with a 1.5" body lift is to be sure your ground straps remain in good shape.
My Zone 1.5" body lift came with a ground strap extension to the frame.
Sorry for the extra post, just a bit of clarification.

I ordered the same kit.:)

[dieselfan1]

12 hours ago, Alan Bowman said:

I reread the post. 
I ordered a 1.5 body lift.

should clear the tires after that. Do I need shock adapters for the body lift? For the rear shocks?

No.

 

[Alan Bowman]

On 11/3/2021 at 9:27 PM, MikeBMW said:

Once you go above 2" level, you're gonna want to replace the upper control arms (UCAs) with something more suitable than stock.
The body lift is a good idea for insurance with bigger tires and bigger minus wheel offset but they are a bit of a pain to install. Trust me, one doesn't just "throw one on."

so got the 2 inch front spacers 

3 inch rear blocks 

1.5 body lift

-38 mm offset wheels

33.5x11 rub on full lock.

mechanic says when in doubt pound it out. He did this on his 2500.

Edited December 17, 2021 by Alan Bowman

[Alan Bowman]

On 11/3/2021 at 9:03 PM, MikeBMW said:

I guess we'll see. With a 2" level, you don't need a rear block. I did the rear 1" block and 1.5" spring lift because I hate a squat. Again, in my experience, if you want to stay out of trouble, a 2" level won't work well on -38 wheels with a 2" level.
I hope you have a different experience.
It took me a long time to get where I am today, next, it's a true 7" lift with 37s but that will be next year - I'm happy at the moment.

FINALLY!!!!

ever so slight of a rub on full lock. Rubs the middle of the backside of the front fender. Could do the nocal mod. Last option. I’ve done everything else. Don’t wanna go bigger. So. Where’s the sludge hammer? Lol. 
it may not rub if I take off that plastic piece there but, id like it folded up honestly. Do it once now save later.

 

 

LOLZ I posted twice. Ops. It rides better than factory I swear. I hate 20s.

Edited December 17, 2021 by Alan Bowman

[dieselfan1]

5 minutes ago, Alan Bowman said:

FINALLY!!!!

ever so slight of a rub on full lock. Rubs the middle of the backside of the front fender. Could do the nocal mod. Last option. I’ve done everything else. Don’t wanna go bigger. So. Where’s the sludge hammer? Lol. 
it may not rub if I take off that plastic piece there but, id like it folded up honestly. Do it once now save later.

 

 

LOLZ I posted twice. Ops. It rides better than factory I swear. I hate 20s.

Let's see a side view Al.

[M1ck3y]

11 hours ago, Alan Bowman said:

so got the 2 inch front spacers 

3 inch rear blocks 

1.5 body lift

-38 mm offset wheels

33.5x11 rub on full lock.

mechanic says when in doubt pound it out. He did this on his 2500.

 

Looks good! You might want to look at some flares though, the sides of truck will get blasted 

 

Someone down the street from me has a Ram with a high negative offset. And when road conditions are bad, his truck looks like it's driven through a hurricane. 

[Alan Bowman]

20 hours ago, dieselfan1 said:

Let's see a side view Al.

 

[Alan Bowman]

17 hours ago, M1ck3y said:

 

Looks good! You might want to look at some flares though, the sides of truck will get blasted 

 

Someone down the street from me has a Ram with a high negative offset. And when road conditions are bad, his truck looks like it's driven through a hurricane. 

Maybe depending on how they’re mounted. My wrangler was the same way it got blasted. Lol. Trucks worth a little more tho. Maybe I should look.

[dieselfan1]

On 12/18/2021 at 2:34 PM, Alan Bowman said:

Maybe depending on how they’re mounted. My wrangler was the same way it got blasted. Lol. Trucks worth a little more tho. Maybe I should look.

The trick to not getting blasted is to stay off Gravel roads.

My truck is scared of Gravel. It does sudden u turns when approaching gravel with the driver bitching and moaning.

Stay out of the rocks that collect at intersections too.

[MikeBMW]

On 12/18/2021 at 3:34 PM, Alan Bowman said:

Maybe depending on how they’re mounted. My wrangler was the same way it got blasted. Lol. Trucks worth a little more tho. Maybe I should look.

I installed the stock Chevy color-match splash guards.
I really like them.
 

Edited December 25, 2021 by MikeBMW

[M1ck3y]

16 hours ago, MikeBMW said:

I installed the stock Chevy color-match splash guards.
I really like them.
 

 

Any drilling required?

[MikeBMW]

On 12/25/2021 at 2:52 PM, M1ck3y said:

 

Any drilling required?

It's been awhile so I'm trying to recall.
The fronts required drilling and I bought a rivet nut gun to get it done.One cannot easily access the rear of the front fenders.
The rears, where the other side of the fender can be accessed, required a new hole drilled for a screw attachment.
So, indeed, there is drilling required.
If one lives where the roads are salted in the winter, be sure to protect those drill holes prior to installing the splash guards.