Jump to content

Ebay RKE wont program

MBRedline

By MBRedline
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

Recommended Posts

MBRedline Enthusiast

MBRedline

Posted
Posted

I purchased a used rke for a 2015 yukon denali.  I followed the instructions in the manual to program but with no success.

 

I then decided to do the 30 min program and wipe all the keys and start over.  I was able to program the old keys back to the car but the new key was not recognized by the vehicle at all.

 

Does the key need to be reset or cleared?  Does anybody have any ideas?  Right now I have a 60 dollar key chain :,-(

 

Not so happy about that,  all the articles and the manual dont say anything about restrictions. 

 

Any help is greatly appreciated!

tbarn Senior Enthusiast

tbarn

Posted
Posted

Does this truck have option BTM?  If yes then you can program FOB's/Keys yourself ( as log as you have a known good and programmed to your truck FOB ).

Here is the official version.

Adding Transmitters (Without SPS)

Note:

  • Verify all mechanical keys operate correctly before beginning any programming procedures.
  • To initiate, this procedure requires that 1 learned transmitter be available.
  • A total of eight transmitters can be learned to a single vehicle.
  • This procedure adds transmitters only. The procedure does not erase previously learned transmitters.

Note: For the transmitter pocket location refer to the Remote Keyless Entry (RKE) System Operation document in the owner manual.

  1. Place the recognized transmitter(s) in the vehicle cupholder.
  2. Insert the mechanical key of the new transmitter into the key lock cylinder located on the outside of the driver door and turn the key to the unlock position five times within ten seconds. The driver information center will display Ready For Remote #2, 3, 4, etc..
  3. Place the new transmitter into the transmitter pocket.
  4. Press and release the ignition mode switch. When the transmitter is learned, the driver information center will indicate that it is ready to program the next transmitter.
  5. Remove the transmitter from the transmitter pocket and press the transmitter unlock button. To program additional transmitters, repeat Steps 3 through 5.
  6. When all additional transmitters are programmed, press and hold the ignition mode switch for 15 seconds to exit programming mode.
  7. Verify each transmitter and key is operating properly. Operate each of the keyless entry functions using the buttons on the transmitter. On vehicles with a keyed ignition switch, verify the mechanical key by starting the vehicle using the ignition switch. When verifying operation, make sure that no other transmitters are near the vehicle.

NOTE: These instructions MUST be followed to the letter.

If this procedure fails then you either already have 8 programmed FOB's or have a bad or wrong FOB.

 

If you don't have option BTM, you can't do it yourself. Needs to be done at a dealer via SPS.

 

MBRedline Enthusiast

MBRedline

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey man thanks so much for the reply.  The steps you listed are what is listed in my owners manual and they work perfect for my original keys.  

 

I suppose my question now is, does the key fob have to be programmed to the vehicle before the vehicle can be programmed to the fob?

 

Example, can I take my buddy's denali fob and program it to my vehicle following the steps you listed?

 

Or does the fob itself need to be coded to my vehicle before I can program it to the vehicle filling the steps listed.

 

From what I am reading I believe it to be the latter, just sucks cause there is not explanation of this in the manuel.

 

I called the dealer today and they said the weren't positive but they believe if a fob is programmed to a vehicle that it can not be reprogrammed to another.

 

Is this the case?

tbarn Senior Enthusiast

tbarn

Posted
Posted

Does your truck have options BTM and or ATH. Found in the glove box label. Some GM vehicle remotes have a two way learn procedure where the fob learns the VIN of the vehicle. I don't think it is the case on your truck but I'm not sure. Once learned, they cannot be relearned to any other vehicle. It is done behind the scene so to speak. I'm still doing some research but not having a lot of luck. GM is not forth coming with this type of info for security reasons I suppose. I'm thinking you have a wrong or defective remote. Do the part numbers on the remotes match?

MBRedline Enthusiast

MBRedline

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey thanks again for the reply!

 

My glove box has both ATH and BCM

 

I am attaching a photo, because I dont know what I am looking at.

 

Edit: key fob model number is the same as my original,  Ebay seller also said it was for a 2015 yukon xl denali

 

tbarn Senior Enthusiast

tbarn

Posted
Posted

At this point it appears you have two options. Return or exchage the fob or take the truck and all fobs to a dealer and have them try it using GM SPS system. It will cost whether it works or not though. Getting a new bad fob is not all that rare.

MBRedline Enthusiast

MBRedline

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks, I guess I'll leave it as is, and just try to order a new fob from dealer.  What I paid for this one it's not worth paying them to try to fix it and be unsuccessful and have to order a new one anyway.

Tahoe02 Enthusiast

Tahoe02

Posted
Posted

Hope you can get your money back on the used one. You could also see if there are any new ones for sale on Ebay from a GM Dealer. Lots of Dealers sell on Ebay. Cheaper prices, no tax and free shipping. The Dealer would then only charge to program or you could use a local locksmith. Good luck.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      You got that Hengst D110??
    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • parthery
      GM Hard Folding Tonneau by REV review

      By parthery · Posted

      Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...