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wh1skey6

305/45R22 on "stock" wheels & stock height

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I love the GM snowflake style wheels but wanted them in 22"s. Found some replicas that fit the bill. They offer a package with 305/34-22"s. From what I've read, I'll rub (wheels are +31 offset) because of the stamped UCAs (I have a 2018 Denali 1500). 

 

Before I step down to a 285, I had a question. Would going with a 1" spacer solve the rubbing issue? 1" is 25.4 mm so it would effectively push the wheels/tires out like a 285 (in this case, 279.6). Also could do a .75" (19 mm). Is my logic sound or am I way off base?

 

Wheels:

s-l1600.jpg

 

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I love the GM snowflake style wheels but wanted them in 22"s. Found some replicas that fit the bill. They offer a package with 305/34-22"s. From what I've read, I'll rub (wheels are +31 offset) because of the stamped UCAs (I have a 2018 Denali 1500). 
 
Before I step down to a 285, I had a question. Would going with a 1" spacer solve the rubbing issue? 1" is 25.4 mm so it would effectively push the wheels/tires out like a 285 (in this case, 279.6). Also could do a .75" (19 mm). Is my logic sound or am I way off base?
 
Wheels:
s-l1600.jpg
 
More info needed. Right answer is hub centric spacers for rims then that is scrap with the spacers so hub spacers with clearance for through lug bolts. Then I say you are good. I ran 1/4" on 24" rims and 295 tires as I had issues at full lock on the sway bar with the lowering.

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6 minutes ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

More info needed. Right answer is hub centric spacers for rims then that is scrap with the spacers so hub spacers with clearance for through lug bolts. Then I say you are good. I ran 1/4" on 24" rims and 295 tires as I had issues at full lock on the sway bar with the lowering.

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What offset are your 24"s?

 

Also what do you mean by "scrap with the spacers"?

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What offset are your 24"s?
 
Also what do you mean by "scrap with the spacers"?
Stupid new keyboard. At a point the spacer reduces the threads on the wheel stud you can switch over to throught wheel style lug nuts. So they gave a shank that grabs more threads. The cemetric spacer still goes to center on hub and you get the space you need.

No idea but they work and the tires I have are said to be 12" wide. Only reason i haven't gone to 22" is I can find a 305 tire on a replica.

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Easy way to do this is take your offset and then find a spacer that will get you to the desired offset (use a inch to mm calculator on line_ and you can figure what your corrected offset will be. that said. I almost did what you are going to do but bough new rims instead.

 

Easy answer is, there is no easy answer to this one and you will need to figure out what you want to do or how far you are comfortable going.

 

- That tire really needs a 10" wide rim, you can do it on an OEM just keep that in mind.

- the only spacers that don't need trimming and are bolt on start at 1.75" ( try Bora)

- On a 1.75 converted is like 46~48mm or so. With a +31 offset that would put you at roughly -15 offset which will poke some and most likely require back fender trimming (at worst norcal trim - zone makes trim plates that are easy to install though minor cutting of the body is required.

-  rough calculation conversion is 1" = 25mm

- Can run a smaller spacer but will have to deal with lug trimming depending on what you go with  , a 1" spacer will but you closer to a zero offset which "may" work without trimming.

 

Check your tire weights before you buy, any large increase in weight will noticeably effect performance in a negative way. Nitto makes a couple of 305/45's that are in the 45lb range that are considered light. These are the way to go, (terra grappler G2 or ridge grappler (make sure it's the 4 ply tire)).

 

Good luck I went a different direction and just did a 33x12.50 r 22 light truck tire and like it but on some level wish I would have followed my gut and got the 305's that are 15lbs lighter per tire. Rotational mass is important if you like performance. Weight kills performance. 

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Agree about the 10" tire for 305. But I cant find the replica denalis or even real Denali rims in 10" on a 22" my 24" are 10" I'm stuck unless I find a rim I like.

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It's a tough one because most the OEM designs for the most part look better  than the custom wheels - just your limited on the widths/offsets.  I went custom and it was agonizing because most of the wheels don't look that hot and are either expensive or super cheap (cheap build quality) and in a lot of cases super heavy. Can't win.

 

At your HP level and being a street truck I assume, would go billet with a true high performance like 345/xx-rxx car tire - that truck has to be fast and pretty much needs a performance ( as in speed rated) tire.

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It is speed rated want to say like 160mph. At the track I will try a set of slicks on race stars. That is why I didn't install big rear brakes.
When the front brakes need replacing I will go wilwood big kit. And yes weight. Had chrome 22" on my Escalade that weigh a ton. But in Michigan i also have to deal with damaged rims. So the replicas are under $1000 mounted and good to go for a set. Cant beat the price.
I have 2 sets of forged 3 piece ccw rims for my Camaro. Under 20lb each on a 17x12.

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Posted (edited)

Update to this. I did get the package delivered. I do have some rub at full lock and I'm pretty sure its on the UCA or SB (only have 10 miles on since the install). I wanted to push them out just enough to not rub using like the Bora 1/4" spacers but I'm having mixed feelings about them after reading tons of posts about them.

 

I forgot to check but these wheels should have pockets in the back. I should be able to use a smaller spacer and have the studs stick out into the pockets, right? I don't want to compound the problem by pushing out too far and getting a different rub.

Edited by wh1skey6

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