Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have Nitto Terra Grapplers on it now.  Smooth as silk with not a hint of vibration.  Very slight hum compared to the stock tires but they ride great otherwise.

Posted

Thanks, good to know that Nitto's may work if the Conti's need to get swapped out.  are you running 20" wheels?

Posted
19 hours ago, rlme36 said:

Thanks, good to know that Nitto's may work if the Conti's need to get swapped out.  are you running 20" wheels?

Yes, 20" wheels

Posted (edited)

Installed 2 new replacement tires today for the rear, dealer said the RF was LR was 19 and RR was 34.  Drove home on hitting the magic # of 70 and still feel a vibe.  As it stands now

LF is 29

RF is 27

LR is 19

RR is 34 

 

Called Discount tire to see what their thoughts were and they are going to Road force balance a replacement tire on their end to get the low 20's and then ship out to me to swap out the RR tire.  To some degree i wonder if the stock rancho shocks are having an impact on the results as they have 42K miles on them at this point, I purchased the truck with 41,3xx.  I wanted to get the tires sorted before I intro a new variable like new shocks, already did the research/searched the forum and have Bilstein 5100 in a box waiting on install.

Edited by rlme36
Posted

Well, got the last new replacement tire installed today to swap out the 34 from the RR, the new RR value is 21 road force.  I do feel a little something, but its much better than it was in the beginning, amazed at how sensitive these trucks are to RF values.  Will use the truck for a long tow in a few weeks, which will hopefully go without issues.

Posted

Centramatic’s, no more issues on either tires summer or winter and you can forego useless balancing weights. Had mine on since December, even the dealer drooled over the smooth ride. Could just be me though. ;)

Posted
3 hours ago, BigWhiteMastadon said:

Centramatic’s, no more issues on either tires summer or winter and you can forego useless balancing weights. Had mine on since December, even the dealer drooled over the smooth ride. Could just be me though. ;)

interested to hear/learn more about these.  Seems like short money to make all the tire vibe issues people are having go away.   

Posted

I’ll answer any real world questions you have. I saw these on some tractor trucks and got to chatting with several of them. Decided to try these. Rather amazing. One side effect that may put some off, they are filled in the edges with beads and at low speeds with windows open you will here a constant swishing sound. Tires and handling noticeably improved especially in corners. Good mileage as well. In town I’m only getting 17km/l but highway runs 10-12km/l. Just thought some of you might enjoy them. 

Posted
On 4/24/2019 at 8:50 AM, rlme36 said:

Installed 2 new replacement tires today for the rear, dealer said the RF was LR was 19 and RR was 34.  Drove home on hitting the magic # of 70 and still feel a vibe.  As it stands now

LF is 29

RF is 27

LR is 19

RR is 34 

 

Called Discount tire to see what their thoughts were and they are going to Road force balance a replacement tire on their end to get the low 20's and then ship out to me to swap out the RR tire.  To some degree i wonder if the stock rancho shocks are having an impact on the results as they have 42K miles on them at this point, I purchased the truck with 41,3xx.  I wanted to get the tires sorted before I intro a new variable like new shocks, already did the research/searched the forum and have Bilstein 5100 in a box waiting on install.

Bilstein will help alot.....

Posted
On 5/1/2019 at 9:51 AM, BigWhiteMastadon said:

I’ll answer any real world questions you have. I saw these on some tractor trucks and got to chatting with several of them. Decided to try these. Rather amazing. One side effect that may put some off, they are filled in the edges with beads and at low speeds with windows open you will here a constant swishing sound. Tires and handling noticeably improved especially in corners. Good mileage as well. In town I’m only getting 17km/l but highway runs 10-12km/l. Just thought some of you might enjoy them. 

Did you really mean km/l or are the numbers L/100 km?

 

Centramatics are also used by some in the touring motorcycle world.

Dyna Beads (and others) is another style of balancing product - beads installed in tire, instead of installing a centramatics style ring. 

 

 

Posted

Hahahahahahaha All thumbs. Anyway I really like these Centramatic thingies, just threw the original rubber back on for the summer and the guys at the shop were eager to know how the ride was over the winter without adding weights to the wheels. I let them go for a spin. ;) They seemed to enjoy the ride. Then once the summer rubber was on again I sent them out again for comparison. Anyway, enough if that. 

Posted

I'm having this problem on my '09 dually.  I had 3 bad tires on the rear so I put 6 new tires on the truck (old tires had 38k on them).  Took it to multiple shops for months until tires were finally deemed out of spec.  Vibrations/shakes are already starting again, had the tires balanced last weekend and then road forced yesterday as well as an alignment done.  Tires probably don't even have 6k on them yet.  I've got around 1,000lbs of wheel weights in the bed so adding weight does nothing.  If anything I'm starting to believe that having a load is whats causing the tires to go bad even though I'm no where near under inflated.  I thought maybe it was because I was running a different size than stock but from all I can find the tires and rim combination should work, at least if I really do have a 6.5" wide rim.  Regardless the rim size requirements between stock tire size and the one I'm using only vary by 0.5 inches.  Everyone tells me my truck rides fine, it's dually they ride rough.  It's not the rough ride it's the dang shake/vibration :banghead: Another reason I think it's the tires is like you, when they're warmed up it gets worse.  Plus if I increase the tire pressure the shake/vibration lessens some.  Good luck to you.

Posted

What pressures inner back vs outer back? Insides should be 3-5 psi less. That said a good bump can throw them out.

 

I’ve mentioned Centramatic’s before as they don’t care about issues with tire and wheel, they balance on the fly. Your mileage may vary. ;)

Posted (edited)

I’m ready to try centramtics, but how do they help with high RF values?

Edited by bimmerboy318
Posted

You mean balanced on Road Force? Don’t bother.

 

I have no weights on any wheels, summers or winters, the Centramatic’s are dynamic and forever adjusting. You get a swish sound starting out until just shy of 40km/h then silence. Sound won’t return until you drop below about 17km/h. The sound is the result of all those beads/bearings in the disks waiting for physics to tell them where they need to be. 

 

Best thing I’ve bought in years. Either around town or on the highway, they really help the truck feel grounded and offer the smoothest rotation of the wheel/tire possible and constantly updating. 

 

Glad I stumbled across them and really appreciative of the people who provided positive views of the product when I asked them. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...