Jump to content

Flex Fuel Conversion

Stonehenge

By Stonehenge
in Engines & Drivetrain

 Share

Recommended Posts

JONBLARC7 Enthusiast

JONBLARC7

Posted
Posted

Confirmed at lunch that the line was causing a restriction.  I removed it and just plug the fuel lines back into there stock spot and my fuel trims went back to the way it was before.

 

I'm going to go with the DXS fitting that is straight instead.  I never had a restriction with the Russell fitting that where straight.  So I'm going to go back to something like that.  

  • Replies 61
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

SinisterZ71
SinisterZ71

I've got a 2018 Silverado K1500 extended cab short bed that did NOT come with the flex fuel option.   I ordered a Continental brand flex fuel sensor p/n: 13577429 and Flex Fuel Sensor Rear l

CamGTP
CamGTP

Yes, the sensor and a tune will allow you to run E85.   Once everything in the computer is enabled it will work as if it came that way from the factory.   I'm currently running som

Mike GMC
Mike GMC

Besides the fuel sensor, what comes in the "kit"?  Why not just buy GM OEM parts?  They seem to work pretty well.

Posted Images

SinisterZ71 Enthusiast

SinisterZ71

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, JONBLARC7 said:

Have you logged you fuel trims after adding this fuel line.  After my Russell fittings failed I decided to use this line.  But I didn't from memory remember you flipped the fitting coming from the tank.  So my sensor it hanging out over the drive shaft.  But it shouldn't flow much different than how you have it set up.

 

I've been dialing in my spark since I already had my MAF and VE fueling dialed in pretty good.

 

After the only thing I did to the truck last night was I added that fuel line.  Now under WOT my fuel trims read much leaner.  At idol and cruising it's fine but I think it's causing a bottle neck at WOT.  My MAF error went from -1 to -2 to 8 to 10 and the wideband confirms it.  I'm usually around .86 lambda and before I noticed it was lean I was at .95.  Not good for WOT

 

I'm going to go out and take it off a log again and see if it goes back to the way it was be for.   

No, I haven't logged my fuel trims.  But this fuel line is the factory part for flex fuel trucks - if it is causing a bottleneck to fuel flow at WOT, wouldn't it do so on all factory flex fuel trucks equipped with this same fuel line???

  • Like 1
JONBLARC7 Enthusiast

JONBLARC7

Posted
Posted

You could be 100% right.  Because like I said the way I bent the line wasn’t quite like yours.  I didn’t realize you spun the line from the tank around 180 degrees.

 

just wanted to let you know.  Mine was being pinched or blocked somewhere.

SinisterZ71 Enthusiast

SinisterZ71

Posted
Posted
On 6/5/2020 at 9:45 PM, JONBLARC7 said:

You could be 100% right.  Because like I said the way I bent the line wasn’t quite like yours.  I didn’t realize you spun the line from the tank around 180 degrees.

 

just wanted to let you know.  Mine was being pinched or blocked somewhere.

I might have some time to do some datalogging on my truck later today, if I do, I'll get back to you with my findings.

 

Please let us know what you come up with on your suspected fuel line kink issue.

JONBLARC7 Enthusiast

JONBLARC7

Posted
Posted

Here is how I had the line bent.  If it’s not the new fuel line I guess I could of been punching the flexible fuel line coming off the fuel tank.  But don’t believe that’s it.  If you logs come back fine.  I’ll dig into it deeper.

FC0EF821-7912-4380-AE65-BA8C67C4F4EB.jpeg

SinisterZ71 Enthusiast

SinisterZ71

Posted
Posted (edited)

I recorded a log yesterday.  Flex fuel sensor was reporting 72.5% ethanol in fuel content, ambient (outside) air temp was 91 deg F.  WOT narrow band o2 voltage was 868mv on B1S1 and 880mv on B2S1 (plenty rich).  STFT on both banks was 0% at WOT and LTFT on B1 was -7.8% while LTFT on B2 was -9.4%.  So it wasn't running lean at WOT in my case.  If anything, the tune could stand to have a little fuel pulled out to correct for the negative fuel trim numbers.

Edited by SinisterZ71
  • Like 1
JONBLARC7 Enthusiast

JONBLARC7

Posted
Posted

Thanks 

 

I was thinking about it last night and maybe one of the clips on the top of the fuel tank that hold the soft line in place was pinching that line.  I'll hook it up again and spin the soft fuel line around like you have it and log again.

  • 2 weeks later...
M H Enthusiast

M H

Posted
Posted (edited)

edit***This line makes the sensor have to be directly above the driveshaft.  I used plastic to to make a mount/shelf, I'll change the line orientation later, don't recommend this though***edit

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10359092&jsn=14898

 

Hey CC guys, I found this.  Same line but straight, and few cents cheaper.  :)

AC Delco part #20967834

Edited by M H
  • Thanks 1
  • 1 month later...
JONBLARC7 Enthusiast

JONBLARC7

Posted
Posted

I tired the line post earlier again but I spun around the top fitting so the tank line came in from the drivers side door.

 

Something must be pinched or it shrunk when I heated it up to straighten it out.  With the line added it makes my WOT go lean.  Around .91 to .93 lambda,  Then I can come right back home take the line off and go for a log again and it goes right back to where it should be around .87 lambda.

 

This is all checked with my wideband.  So be careful. 

 

The Russell fitting didn't have this problem but they failed on my after two years.  So I'm going to go back to that style and just use the more expensive DSX fitting. 

 

 

You can't go by your STFT or LTFT because it doesn't reference those during WOT pulls.  That's why the STFT go to 0% as soon as the truck goes into PE. 

SinisterZ71 Enthusiast

SinisterZ71

Posted
Posted
6 minutes ago, JONBLARC7 said:

 

 

You can't go by your STFT or LTFT because it doesn't reference those during WOT pulls.  That's why the STFT go to 0% as soon as the truck goes into PE. 

True, but I wasn't looking at my fuel trims at WOT.  I was watching my narrow band B1S1 and B2S1 o2 sensor readings - and both were above 900mv during the WOT pulls (which would generally indicate richer than 12:1 AFR).

  • Like 1
JONBLARC7 Enthusiast

JONBLARC7

Posted
Posted

Good deal I just want people to know and double check by logging before you go ripping around.  Obviously something when wrong with my line when I heated it up and bent it out straight. 

 

.93 lambda might hurt something

SinisterZ71 Enthusiast

SinisterZ71

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, JONBLARC7 said:

Good deal I just want people to know and double check by logging before you go ripping around.  Obviously something when wrong with my line when I heated it up and bent it out straight. 

 

.93 lambda might hurt something

.93 lambda equates to about 13.7:1 AFR which is still a bit lean for an N/A engine at WOT for my liking (I would prefer no leaner than 13.0:1 AFR), but not as terrible as 1.00 lambda (14.7:1) would be.

Edited by SinisterZ71
  • Like 1
JONBLARC7 Enthusiast

JONBLARC7

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yea I'm tuning it my self so I'm targeting 1.135 in PE which is .88 Lambda.  I usually hang right around .87 to .88 in a pull.  I still need to clean up my VE table alittle.

 

 

Edited by JONBLARC7
lucas287 Enthusiast

lucas287

Posted
Posted
On 6/23/2020 at 12:06 PM, M H said:

 

Hey CC guys, I found this.  Same line but straight, and few cents cheaper.  :)

AC Delco part #20967834

Hey @M H did you end up using this part #? Looks like a good solution rather than boiling/bending the previously mentioned connector! 

M H Enthusiast

M H

Posted
Posted

I would not recommend.  I will probably switch to hard line adapters or something different.  I made a splash guard out of an old wheel liner, mounted the sensor to it, but its directly above the drive shaft (not optimal).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hoginedgewood
      2 speed transfer case optional now?

      By Hoginedgewood · Posted

      I thought I was building a HD 3500 srw, maybe I was lost.
    • Coastie05
      Which 2027 engine will you choose?

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      No doubt, I definitely agree with you. However, considering the 6.2 and 3.0 have been catastrophically failing with very little miles, I figured I would put trouble free. I’m at 18,4xx and still not a single issue.  
    • KARNUT
      Slate Electric Truck

      By KARNUT · Posted

      It’s never dry here but it gets hot. My 4 vehicles I keep at home drive an 18 mile loop. One 6 days a week. Two about 3 days each and one once a month. Only one goes on trips about 4 times a year 1000 to 2000 miles each time. One 26 years old gets driven once a month for 22 years. One 14 years old goes 6 days a week. The other two are recent at 2 and 4 years. All are performing normal no extra service other than that would be half of recommended or severe service in the maintenance manual. No extra water or steam out the exhaust or premature plug wear. I would consider an 18 mile loop would be enough. So apparently once a month at 18 miles for 22 years has kept the collector car running well. About 45 minutes a month. 
    • newdude
      Transmission Temperature Hitting 220s

      By newdude · Posted

      It is working as designed.  NHT and non NHT trucks have the same exact transmission cooling setup.  NHT just gets a larger radiator.     The transmission cooler loop on these is as follows.     -Transmission out goes into an oil to water heat exchanger (item #1 in the first illustration below).  This exchanger has engine coolant opposite the transmission fluid and uses engine coolant to warm and then regulate the transmission fluid temperature when its in the operating window.   - From the cooler it goes to a thermal bypass valve (item #11 in the 2nd illustration below).  If the ATF has not reached the temp to open the bypass (194F), it loops back.   - When it reaches 194F, the thermostat opens and ATF then flows out to the oil to air auxiliary cooler (item #17 in the 2nd illustration) at the front of the truck.  From there it goes back to the transmission.     Your only fix would be to swap for the PPE thermal bypass delete block which will open the loop to the aux cooler all the time.  It will STILL run warm, probably 170-200F, but that's as low as you'll get it as its still flowing through the oil to water exchanger.      
    • Grumpy Bear
      Slate Electric Truck

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Most say the oil temperature needs to above the boiling point of water to rid it of moisture and long enough to dry it. Many think that is about a hour at 212 F or more. Those people have never line dried cloths in a Midwest winter. Leave a pan of water sitting on the counter and eventually it all evaporates. So heat drives the time it takes. Water in oil under 175 F, the Nitration initiation temperature, is a minimum then for temperature and samples I've done that use Karl Fisher method say about a hour (in a healthy well tuned motor) over 175 F will dry it to under 800 ppm. Low enough to not be much of a factor. Motors with weak rings will take longer and the colder the air temperature the longer it takes.   On a cold motor there is also the condensation temperature. Blowby gases that contain moisture are subject to that cold cylinder wall, like sweat on a glass of ice tea. But also subject to the Law of Partial Pressures. Wear studies by GM and the DOD  indicate wear is a real issue below 85 F and a concern to 140 F but doesn't become a minimal factor until about 160 F. You know this intuitively when you see water vapor exit the exhaust pipe until the system gets above the dew point. It isn't magic, it's physics and it fascinates me. I know you didn't ask but....I over share sometimes. 😉    You keep the Camaro's high and tight.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...