Jump to content

The Peckish Synapse

Grumpy Bear

By Grumpy Bear
in The Off-Topic Bar

 Share

Recommended Posts

customboss Senior Enthusiast

customboss

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, OnTheReel said:

RLI still has “overstock” of 5w30 at $3.50/QT when you buy a case. For that price it’s gotta be good for something. Just not for anything I own. 

The PCMO is not the same as the HD formulations in performance. 

  • Replies 1.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

OnTheReel
OnTheReel

Look no further than the boat world which is mostly what I do for work and fun. I have a Honda BF150 outboard on my tin boat. It’s a 2.4L Accord engine turned on end. In the car it’ll take 0w20. Proba

OnTheReel
OnTheReel

Very cool. I am down to one Olds these days but she’s a keeper. 

Black02Silverado
Black02Silverado

OK, who calls it a water heater and who refers it as a hot water heater.  

Posted Images

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, customboss said:

You wouldn’t be a Guinea pig you’d be late to the party. 

 

Just not to a party I care to go to. Any idea how many times I've heard that story? 

 

Directionally NOACK tells a story of how light the base oils are. At 11% we have allot of OCP polymer to make a 5W30 and more for a 5W40 and given the 'advertised' below SAE spec HTHS values it misses on many factors I've found to be quite important. You disagree? Fine, you use it. Let me know the actual measured wear results in say a half million miles of continuous use, not the one change at a time thing you like to do. 

 

I'll keep my track record proven "over added" 5W30 with a HTHS of a 10W40 over a low ash 5W30 with a D6616 of an SAE20 and an HTHS value of who knows what....

 

The double speak in their advertising is dizzying. I'm not interested. I see one advantage of RLI over QSUD. Polarity. I'll give it that. 

 

 

  

Edited by Grumpy Bear
  • Like 1
Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
  • Author
Posted
5 hours ago, OnTheReel said:

RLI still has “overstock” of 5w30 at $3.50/QT when you buy a case. For that price it’s gotta be good for something. Just not for anything I own. 

 

That's some funny stuff right there. 

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Tell me again how Red Line HP Euro is considered "Over Added"? 

:dunno:

 

 

image.png.ebd49b98c02e8ae81bba9e845cfb827d.png

 

Ditto 5W40 RLHP Euro.

 

 

Edited by Grumpy Bear
KARNUT Senior Enthusiast

KARNUT

Posted
Posted
7 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

Just not to a party I care to go to. Any idea how many times I've heard that story? 

 

Directionally NOACK tells a story of how light the base oils are. At 11% we have allot of OCP polymer to make a 5W30 and more for a 5W40 and given the 'advertised' below SAE spec HTHS values it misses on many factors I've found to be quite important. You disagree? Fine, you use it. Let me know the actual measured wear results in say a half million miles of continuous use, not the one change at a time thing you like to do. 

 

I'll keep my track record proven "over added" 5W30 with a HTHS of a 10W40 over a low ash 5W30 with a D6616 of an SAE20 and an HTHS value of who knows what....

 

The double speak in their advertising is dizzying. I'm not interested. I see one advantage of RLI over QSUD. Polarity. I'll give it that. 

 

 

  

Gee wiz, you keep bringing up very high mileage continued use like it’s common for you. The closest you bring up in your fleet is struggling to reach 300K. You blamed the oil when actually it’s a bad engine design. Buy something with a decent record for longevity. Follow the severe service schedule. I just bought a 15 year old Honda with a proven reliability record for under 10K. With a full maintenance record. It right in the manual. On how to get maximum service out their product. That’s why a Chevy guy drives a Honda. 500K miles, please. Let’s get real. 

customboss Senior Enthusiast

customboss

Posted
Posted
12 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Just not to a party I care to go to

You whine about POE and ESTERS being critical to a good formulation and I offer a US made one 1 state east of you and give you the formulators name but you don't want to talk to them. OK.  

 

 

customboss Senior Enthusiast

customboss

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, KARNUT said:

Gee wiz, you keep bringing up very high mileage continued use like it’s common for you. The closest you bring up in your fleet is struggling to reach 300K. You blamed the oil when actually it’s a bad engine design. Buy something with a decent record for longevity. Follow the severe service schedule. I just bought a 15 year old Honda with a proven reliability record for under 10K. With a full maintenance record. It right in the manual. On how to get maximum service out their product. That’s why a Chevy guy drives a Honda. 500K miles, please. Let’s get real. 

Speaking of that 2010 Honda is it the 6 speed trans? If so has it ever been replaced for the dry bearing no lube issue? 

 

 

customboss Senior Enthusiast

customboss

Posted
Posted (edited)
12 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Tell me again how Red Line HP Euro is considered "Over Added"? 

:dunno:

 

 

image.png.ebd49b98c02e8ae81bba9e845cfb827d.png

 

Ditto 5W40 RLHP Euro.

 

 

Here's the MPT we have discussed note it failed cold start testing.  

 

https://pqia.org/mpt-thirty-k-sae-5w30-synthetic-motor-oil-2/

 

The results of the tests conducted on the sample of MPT THIRTY-K does NOT meet the SAE J300 specifications for the SAE 5W-30 Viscosity Grade listed on the product labels. The Cold Crank Viscosity at -30°C for the sample is nearly twice the maximum for an SAE 5W-30 motor oil. In addition, the labels on this product state it is “Recommended for API SN/SM/SL/SJ/SH/SG/CF and ACEA A3/B3/B4, GM dexos1® (GM-LL-A-025, GM6094M and GM4718M)” but do not display the API Donut, or any other certifying symbol, certifying that it is licensed and meets the performance requirements set by the API or GM. 

 

 

 

Edited by customboss
customboss Senior Enthusiast

customboss

Posted
Posted
12 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Tell me again how Red Line HP Euro is considered "Over Added"? 

:dunno:

 

 

image.png.ebd49b98c02e8ae81bba9e845cfb827d.png

 

Ditto 5W40 RLHP Euro.

 

 

I was addressing the normal non API licensed formulations you have used. Show US the spectral analysis and I will speak to why its overadditized.  Even the formulators of REDLINE addressed that on a paper I will try to find. It was his theory of formulating at Redline incepetion.  

 

Interesting you pull up the Euro spec oil. Do you want to get real or just joust online? 

customboss Senior Enthusiast

customboss

Posted
Posted
12 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

Just not to a party I care to go to. Any idea how many times I've heard that story? 

 

Directionally NOACK tells a story of how light the base oils are. At 11% we have allot of OCP polymer to make a 5W30 and more for a 5W40 and given the 'advertised' below SAE spec HTHS values it misses on many factors I've found to be quite important. You disagree? Fine, you use it. Let me know the actual measured wear results in say a half million miles of continuous use, not the one change at a time thing you like to do. 

 

I'll keep my track record proven "over added" 5W30 with a HTHS of a 10W40 over a low ash 5W30 with a D6616 of an SAE20 and an HTHS value of who knows what....

 

The double speak in their advertising is dizzying. I'm not interested. I see one advantage of RLI over QSUD. Polarity. I'll give it that. 

 

 

  

Silence yourself about RLI if you haven't tested it.  You pump Redline so much its sickening, yes its an overadditized oil relying on tech from 1990.  So much Moly its ridiculous unless you are racing.  When we worked your 4.3 V6 and you allowed it so out of tune that fuel and additive pack was reacting with the engine metallurgy unless my memory fails us.  Yes you ran 0w20 and it did well but they have to overadditize it because at that time they weren't buying  the most advanced additives. So more made up for  that but it reacts with fuel and fuel byproducts when an engine isn't tuned or burning or combusting properly like yours was until you corrected the tune based on my oil analysis. 

 

I like Redline lubes, have used them in street units and my racing attempts in 1989. 

KARNUT Senior Enthusiast

KARNUT

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, customboss said:

Speaking of that 2010 Honda is it the 6 speed trans? If so has it ever been replaced for the dry bearing no lube issue? 

 

 

5 speed automatic. The Odyssey is a 6 speed automatic and like frequent fluid changes.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
OnTheReel Senior Enthusiast

OnTheReel

Posted
Posted
5 hours ago, customboss said:

Silence yourself about RLI if you haven't tested it.  You pump Redline so much its sickening, yes its an overadditized oil relying on tech from 1990.  So much Moly its ridiculous unless you are racing.  When we worked your 4.3 V6 and you allowed it so out of tune that fuel and additive pack was reacting with the engine metallurgy unless my memory fails us.  Yes you ran 0w20 and it did well but they have to overadditize it because at that time they weren't buying  the most advanced additives. So more made up for  that but it reacts with fuel and fuel byproducts when an engine isn't tuned or burning or combusting properly like yours was until you corrected the tune based on my oil analysis. 

 

I like Redline lubes, have used them in street units and my racing attempts in 1989. 

Red Line Euro is only in the low to mid 200s for moly. Not a crazy amount, IMO. It actually isn’t far off from the factory Pennzoil 0w40 used in a lot of Mopars which is also 200+.


If you want to talk about an actually ridiculous amount of moly, that would be the MPT at ~950 PPM. I don’t think I’ve seen anything higher than that. 

customboss Senior Enthusiast

customboss

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, OnTheReel said:

Red Line Euro is only in the low to mid 200s for moly. Not a crazy amount, IMO. It actually isn’t far off from the factory Pennzoil 0w40 used in a lot of Mopars which is also 200+.


If you want to talk about an actually ridiculous amount of moly, that would be the MPT at ~950 PPM. I don’t think I’ve seen anything higher than that. 

Don’t take the bait, Grumpy posts up and replies with a Euro additized Redline that meets ACEA specs.  Totally NOT what I addressed. 
ugh. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined

  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,428 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Common Sense Assembly   Your driveline is forgiving of the occasional mistake. It will even often forgive the random serious blunder. But it will not forgive a continuous bad habit.      What? Not everything needs to be a five thousand word essay.       
    • Grumpy Bear
      Gas Prices

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      We drove about 15 minute east today to visit a friend and saw a steep increase in price in the same county. About 50 cents a gallon steepper. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Sure about that? A degree wheel and a dial indicator would lower your degree of assurance in that statement. 😉    It why we have offset keys and dialable timing sprockets. Just say'n.... I've built a few and have never seen one "On the money". 
    • Chuck FB
      Tire psi

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I will admit I haven't experimented much with pressure drops beyond the numbers I put in and part of that is that the numbers I used are fairly low and then found out it would trigger regardless at that 35 psi. Having said that I had tried before had changed the placard pressures and being that I have a 1 ton set to 80 on the placard for the rear I believe it triggered close to 60, the front I don't recall now for sure but thought maybe it could get close to 45 from that factory 60 placard pressure. So I never did figure out if it was a number of psi from placard pressure to the alarm or a percentage of the total placard number as some figured it was like a 25% drop from placard pressure would trigger it. So as to try and answer your question, I believe I set the placard pressure on the front to 47 or so and while I run the front tires at 40, they have dipped below that some if its colder and I haven't put "winter air" in yet and never once have had the front alarm go off. I would say that the answer your looking for is no, that if you set your placard pressure to 45, you have a certain amount of room to drop below that pressure before the alarm will go off.    The pressures you decide to run in your truck, that ends up being what makes sense to you based on what your carrying in your truck or if towing, then have to bump them back up to something that will carry the load in the rear and the fronts typically left at the same pressure. It all comes down to that chart I put the link to and using an accurate roadside scale to be your guide, both unloaded and then loaded to know your minimum safe pressures.    I just wish GM would allow a person to change the readings for the tire pressures to the English system of pounds as I have to look at that goofy metric reading that will never ever jive in my head and will go over and change it just to figure out what they are if need be and then change it back. 
    • TrueBlue
      No Software Updates - Old Build

      By TrueBlue · Posted

      That part I understand, that the dealer can do it. But I'm not understanding why updates that were available to the truck since it left the factory, or the dealership originally, would not still be available to it without dealer intervention.   I'm thinking along the lines of recalls. They stay available until they are completed, regardless of whether they are in warranty or not, or in the hands of the original owner or not. Why not updates as well, especially since some of those can be safety related also?

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...