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Posted
1 hour ago, OnTheReel said:

RLI still has “overstock” of 5w30 at $3.50/QT when you buy a case. For that price it’s gotta be good for something. Just not for anything I own. 

The PCMO is not the same as the HD formulations in performance. 

Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, customboss said:

You wouldn’t be a Guinea pig you’d be late to the party. 

 

Just not to a party I care to go to. Any idea how many times I've heard that story? 

 

Directionally NOACK tells a story of how light the base oils are. At 11% we have allot of OCP polymer to make a 5W30 and more for a 5W40 and given the 'advertised' below SAE spec HTHS values it misses on many factors I've found to be quite important. You disagree? Fine, you use it. Let me know the actual measured wear results in say a half million miles of continuous use, not the one change at a time thing you like to do. 

 

I'll keep my track record proven "over added" 5W30 with a HTHS of a 10W40 over a low ash 5W30 with a D6616 of an SAE20 and an HTHS value of who knows what....

 

The double speak in their advertising is dizzying. I'm not interested. I see one advantage of RLI over QSUD. Polarity. I'll give it that. 

 

 

  

Edited by Grumpy Bear
  • Like 1
Posted
5 hours ago, OnTheReel said:

RLI still has “overstock” of 5w30 at $3.50/QT when you buy a case. For that price it’s gotta be good for something. Just not for anything I own. 

 

That's some funny stuff right there. 

Posted (edited)

Tell me again how Red Line HP Euro is considered "Over Added"? 

:dunno:

 

 

image.png.ebd49b98c02e8ae81bba9e845cfb827d.png

 

Ditto 5W40 RLHP Euro.

 

 

Edited by Grumpy Bear
Posted
7 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

Just not to a party I care to go to. Any idea how many times I've heard that story? 

 

Directionally NOACK tells a story of how light the base oils are. At 11% we have allot of OCP polymer to make a 5W30 and more for a 5W40 and given the 'advertised' below SAE spec HTHS values it misses on many factors I've found to be quite important. You disagree? Fine, you use it. Let me know the actual measured wear results in say a half million miles of continuous use, not the one change at a time thing you like to do. 

 

I'll keep my track record proven "over added" 5W30 with a HTHS of a 10W40 over a low ash 5W30 with a D6616 of an SAE20 and an HTHS value of who knows what....

 

The double speak in their advertising is dizzying. I'm not interested. I see one advantage of RLI over QSUD. Polarity. I'll give it that. 

 

 

  

Gee wiz, you keep bringing up very high mileage continued use like it’s common for you. The closest you bring up in your fleet is struggling to reach 300K. You blamed the oil when actually it’s a bad engine design. Buy something with a decent record for longevity. Follow the severe service schedule. I just bought a 15 year old Honda with a proven reliability record for under 10K. With a full maintenance record. It right in the manual. On how to get maximum service out their product. That’s why a Chevy guy drives a Honda. 500K miles, please. Let’s get real. 

Posted
12 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Just not to a party I care to go to

You whine about POE and ESTERS being critical to a good formulation and I offer a US made one 1 state east of you and give you the formulators name but you don't want to talk to them. OK.  

 

 

Posted
4 hours ago, KARNUT said:

Gee wiz, you keep bringing up very high mileage continued use like it’s common for you. The closest you bring up in your fleet is struggling to reach 300K. You blamed the oil when actually it’s a bad engine design. Buy something with a decent record for longevity. Follow the severe service schedule. I just bought a 15 year old Honda with a proven reliability record for under 10K. With a full maintenance record. It right in the manual. On how to get maximum service out their product. That’s why a Chevy guy drives a Honda. 500K miles, please. Let’s get real. 

Speaking of that 2010 Honda is it the 6 speed trans? If so has it ever been replaced for the dry bearing no lube issue? 

 

 

Posted (edited)
12 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Tell me again how Red Line HP Euro is considered "Over Added"? 

:dunno:

 

 

image.png.ebd49b98c02e8ae81bba9e845cfb827d.png

 

Ditto 5W40 RLHP Euro.

 

 

Here's the MPT we have discussed note it failed cold start testing.  

 

https://pqia.org/mpt-thirty-k-sae-5w30-synthetic-motor-oil-2/

 

The results of the tests conducted on the sample of MPT THIRTY-K does NOT meet the SAE J300 specifications for the SAE 5W-30 Viscosity Grade listed on the product labels. The Cold Crank Viscosity at -30°C for the sample is nearly twice the maximum for an SAE 5W-30 motor oil. In addition, the labels on this product state it is “Recommended for API SN/SM/SL/SJ/SH/SG/CF and ACEA A3/B3/B4, GM dexos1® (GM-LL-A-025, GM6094M and GM4718M)” but do not display the API Donut, or any other certifying symbol, certifying that it is licensed and meets the performance requirements set by the API or GM. 

 

 

 

Edited by customboss
Posted
12 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Tell me again how Red Line HP Euro is considered "Over Added"? 

:dunno:

 

 

image.png.ebd49b98c02e8ae81bba9e845cfb827d.png

 

Ditto 5W40 RLHP Euro.

 

 

I was addressing the normal non API licensed formulations you have used. Show US the spectral analysis and I will speak to why its overadditized.  Even the formulators of REDLINE addressed that on a paper I will try to find. It was his theory of formulating at Redline incepetion.  

 

Interesting you pull up the Euro spec oil. Do you want to get real or just joust online? 

Posted
12 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

Just not to a party I care to go to. Any idea how many times I've heard that story? 

 

Directionally NOACK tells a story of how light the base oils are. At 11% we have allot of OCP polymer to make a 5W30 and more for a 5W40 and given the 'advertised' below SAE spec HTHS values it misses on many factors I've found to be quite important. You disagree? Fine, you use it. Let me know the actual measured wear results in say a half million miles of continuous use, not the one change at a time thing you like to do. 

 

I'll keep my track record proven "over added" 5W30 with a HTHS of a 10W40 over a low ash 5W30 with a D6616 of an SAE20 and an HTHS value of who knows what....

 

The double speak in their advertising is dizzying. I'm not interested. I see one advantage of RLI over QSUD. Polarity. I'll give it that. 

 

 

  

Silence yourself about RLI if you haven't tested it.  You pump Redline so much its sickening, yes its an overadditized oil relying on tech from 1990.  So much Moly its ridiculous unless you are racing.  When we worked your 4.3 V6 and you allowed it so out of tune that fuel and additive pack was reacting with the engine metallurgy unless my memory fails us.  Yes you ran 0w20 and it did well but they have to overadditize it because at that time they weren't buying  the most advanced additives. So more made up for  that but it reacts with fuel and fuel byproducts when an engine isn't tuned or burning or combusting properly like yours was until you corrected the tune based on my oil analysis. 

 

I like Redline lubes, have used them in street units and my racing attempts in 1989. 

Posted
1 hour ago, customboss said:

Speaking of that 2010 Honda is it the 6 speed trans? If so has it ever been replaced for the dry bearing no lube issue? 

 

 

5 speed automatic. The Odyssey is a 6 speed automatic and like frequent fluid changes.

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Posted
5 hours ago, customboss said:

Silence yourself about RLI if you haven't tested it.  You pump Redline so much its sickening, yes its an overadditized oil relying on tech from 1990.  So much Moly its ridiculous unless you are racing.  When we worked your 4.3 V6 and you allowed it so out of tune that fuel and additive pack was reacting with the engine metallurgy unless my memory fails us.  Yes you ran 0w20 and it did well but they have to overadditize it because at that time they weren't buying  the most advanced additives. So more made up for  that but it reacts with fuel and fuel byproducts when an engine isn't tuned or burning or combusting properly like yours was until you corrected the tune based on my oil analysis. 

 

I like Redline lubes, have used them in street units and my racing attempts in 1989. 

Red Line Euro is only in the low to mid 200s for moly. Not a crazy amount, IMO. It actually isn’t far off from the factory Pennzoil 0w40 used in a lot of Mopars which is also 200+.


If you want to talk about an actually ridiculous amount of moly, that would be the MPT at ~950 PPM. I don’t think I’ve seen anything higher than that. 

Posted
3 hours ago, OnTheReel said:

Red Line Euro is only in the low to mid 200s for moly. Not a crazy amount, IMO. It actually isn’t far off from the factory Pennzoil 0w40 used in a lot of Mopars which is also 200+.


If you want to talk about an actually ridiculous amount of moly, that would be the MPT at ~950 PPM. I don’t think I’ve seen anything higher than that. 

Don’t take the bait, Grumpy posts up and replies with a Euro additized Redline that meets ACEA specs.  Totally NOT what I addressed. 
ugh. 

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