Jump to content

Speaker brand recommendation and sub location


Recommended Posts

Posted
How did you get past the loud chimes when amplifying the speakers? Im building now and i think i figired it out but i want a secind opinion

Are you talking about the door chime? Yeah it’s loud as a mother. Haven’t tried messing with anything to fix that yet. Was waiting til I can’t handle it anymore. Lol. Let me know if you figure something out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
4 minutes ago, mikedeezxxx said:

Are you talking about the door chime? Yeah it’s loud as a mother. Haven’t tried messing with anything to fix that yet. Was waiting til I can’t handle it anymore. Lol. Let me know if you figure something out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dsp with input gain. And setting the gain lower on the amp helps. @Marv88 is doing my truck and i think figured it out

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

Posted
Dsp with input gain. And setting the gain lower on the amp helps. [mention=164287]Marv88[/mention] is doing my truck and i think figured it out

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

Cool. I’ll check it out. I think my dsp has input gain adjustment. Thank you


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted
10 hours ago, Nasty said:

Dsp with input gain. And setting the gain lower on the amp helps. @Marv88 is doing my truck and i think figured it out

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

Doesn't the gain effect the sub? Thus lowering the gain would lower the sub?

Posted
9 minutes ago, Penguin VII said:

Doesn't the gain effect the sub? Thus lowering the gain would lower the sub?

Gain isnt a volume knob. Gain is there to match output voltage of the source unit. 

Posted
1 minute ago, Nasty said:

Gain isnt a volume knob. Gain is there to match output voltage of the source unit. 

Understood, but changing the output voltage also changes the volume right? I have heard conflicting stories here. Some say that you set the gain then don't touch it, others keep the knob easily accessible to adjust.

Posted
Understood, but changing the output voltage also changes the volume right? I have heard conflicting stories here. Some say that you set the gain then don't touch it, others keep the knob easily accessible to adjust.
Knob as in bass knob?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted
11 minutes ago, Nasty said:

Knob as in bass knob?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

I think I'm conflating two things. I had thought that since the gain does change the bass output people were using a second knob to function as gain. Upon further reading I'm seeing that the bass knob is actually a second thing that simply adjusts the volume of the bass and doesn't affect the gain.

Sorry for the confusion, that was on my end. Still trying to piece together all the parts here.

Posted
I think I'm conflating two things. I had thought that since the gain does change the bass output people were using a second knob to function as gain. Upon further reading I'm seeing that the bass knob is actually a second thing that simply adjusts the volume of the bass and doesn't affect the gain.

Sorry for the confusion, that was on my end. Still trying to piece together all the parts here.
Badd knobs that come with amps are no good. I call those distorsion knobs. You need yourself a nice pac lc1 knob it cuts voltage rather than boosting whatever frequency the amp knobs are set to

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Posted
2 minutes ago, Nasty said:

Badd knobs that come with amps are no good. I call those distorsion knobs. You need yourself a nice pac lc1 knob it cuts voltage rather than boosting whatever frequency the amp knobs are set to

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

Yeah, this whole world is new to me. I've never upgraded any car audio and although I think I've got a good ear I couldn't tell you the first thing about most setups. That alone may be a reason I should get a pro to install everything once I've decided on components, however I'm always interested in learning and I do enjoy the DIY.

It's raining here today so would have made for a good day to get out and check out systems, sadly it seems that every car audio place is closed on Sunday. Too bad.

Posted

The car audio components today are very confusing to me. I used to hook up systems in the 90’s. Was fairly easy to understand back than. Today’s car audio you have to know how to use a computer to set everything which always confuses me. I had to have my set up installed by a professional. I didnt even take a try at it. Just wanted it done right the first time and haven’t had to mess with it since. It’s well worth the price for pro install on today’s vehicles.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
31 minutes ago, mikedeezxxx said:

The car audio components today are very confusing to me. I used to hook up systems in the 90’s. Was fairly easy to understand back than. Today’s car audio you have to know how to use a computer to set everything which always confuses me. I had to have my set up installed by a professional. I didnt even take a try at it. Just wanted it done right the first time and haven’t had to mess with it since. It’s well worth the price for pro install on today’s vehicles.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can agree in general but I think I need to find the right balance between everything. I think there is definitely value in getting everything professionally installed, but on the flip side I don't know if it's $800 of value. I guess time will tell me.

Posted
1 hour ago, mikedeezxxx said:

The car audio components today are very confusing to me. I used to hook up systems in the 90’s. Was fairly easy to understand back than. Today’s car audio you have to know how to use a computer to set everything which always confuses me. I had to have my set up installed by a professional. I didnt even take a try at it. Just wanted it done right the first time and haven’t had to mess with it since. It’s well worth the price for pro install on today’s vehicles.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Its actually easier now.  Im am no good on a computer either but its using a dsp now is way easier than using crossovers and eqs.  And you dont have to make it that difficult either

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 404 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...