Jump to content

Brakes pads wearing fast?

Trailboss LT
 Share

Recommended Posts

Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, Marynna Mays said:

Yes. The dealership has changed them 3 times in one year. I contacted GM to get something done about it and they refuse to help. The first time they had to change all brake pads and some of the rotors. It cost me 1200$ with 12000miles on truck. I was 4000 miles out of warranty. Then they went out at 15000miles and now 19000 miles.

 

that's insane...….think the dealer is just hosing you, have you physically had wheel off and checked them yourself...…..no way you can burn thru pads and definetly not a rotor that fast, even if you are towing.....something isn't right

  • Like 1
Marynna Mays New Member

Marynna Mays

Posted
Posted
12 hours ago, Dunn said:

that's insane...….think the dealer is just hosing you, have you physically had wheel off and checked them yourself...…..no way you can burn thru pads and definetly not a rotor that fast, even if you are towing.....something isn't right

No, they show me every time. And no I dont pull a trailer or anything.

davester Senior Enthusiast

davester

Posted
Posted

If you aren't riding the brake while driving, that kind of points to a problem with the brakes not releasing properly.  Could be anything from the caliper pistons not being free, to caliper pins to the master cylinder.

Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted (edited)

for sure something isn't right and cant believe the dealer hasn't mentioned to you that this isn't normal.....not by a far stretch

 

my pads look almost new at 3k

Edited by Dunn
Marynna Mays New Member

Marynna Mays

Posted
Posted
On 6/25/2020 at 4:04 PM, ullose272 said:

Damn! Are you towing all the time or something? Thats crazy

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 

No Ive never pulled anything with it. My driveway has a couple of mudd puddles that I drive through and thats what they are blaming it on.

jnissen Enthusiast

jnissen

Posted
Posted

Mud puddles? Are they a foot deep and filled year round? I think I would fill those puddles up real fast with something to eliminate the puddles.

Unless you don’t give a S@@@ about the truck and your trying to destroy it I don’t buy this.

MaverickZ71 Senior Enthusiast

MaverickZ71

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 6/25/2020 at 7:08 PM, Dunn said:

where can you get that manual?....be interested in picking one up

GM owner manuals come in the glovebox of the new vehicle, or you may download a free pdf after you register your vehicle at the GM Owner Center at my.gm.com.  You can also buy paper copies of the manuals that came with the new vehicle at Helm Inc. at helminc.com for about $50 USD.

 

You can buy Chilton or Haynes service manuals at most auto parts stores for about $25.  The GM authorized comprehensive service manuals are sold by Helm Inc. at helminc.com--you can buy paper manuals, CD ROMS, or USB drives--and they are more expensive--sets for GM trucks and SUVs are currently running at $375-$600.  

Edited by MaverickZ71
Dunn Senior Enthusiast

Dunn

Posted
Posted (edited)

sorry,  I meant service manual....damn $600......guess owners manual will do

Edited by Dunn
MaverickZ71 Senior Enthusiast

MaverickZ71

Posted
Posted
3 minutes ago, Dunn said:

sorry,  I meant service manual....

No worries.  Wasn't sure, so I included both owner manuals and service manuals in my response.  

Spoogle Enthusiast

Spoogle

Posted
Posted
On 6/26/2020 at 7:35 AM, Marynna Mays said:

No, they show me every time. And no I dont pull a trailer or anything.

I'd take it to another dealer, that's just not right. My truck has gone over 10K and the pads are still as good as new.

  • 8 months later...
drumspotter New Member

drumspotter

Posted
Posted
On 6/25/2020 at 5:04 PM, ullose272 said:

Damn! Are you towing all the time or something? Thats crazy

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 

I am on my third set of brakes at 14k miles.   I own a fleet of Silverados, from 2015 up and the 2020 has a MAJOR issue here.   Another guy has three 3500’s doing the same thing.  

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...