Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
22 minutes ago, Opiedeegs said:


Did you remove your entire tailgate for the installation
I have a GMC multi pro the wiring harness to unplug is not the simplest


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

No, I had just enough room to squeeze my fingers between the bumper and tailgate to install the light bar.

  • Like 1
Posted
No, I had just enough room to squeeze my fingers between the bumper and tailgate to install the light bar.

My fingers are too short and fat


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Posted

I had quite a bit of difficulty trying to remove the multi pro tailgate
Could not get the passenger side hinge to release
I got the blade installed anyways would’ve been much easier without the tailgate
The wiring harness is nice so you don’t have to scotch lock any of the tail light wires


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

I have the Opt 7 with module on my Rst. Works and looks awesome only down fall is that u loose the rear bumper sensor function.  I could not figure out how to hardwire/tap in to the taillights 

Edited by Nola Sciko
Posted
3 hours ago, Nola Sciko said:

I have the Opt 7 with module on my Rst. Works and looks awesome only down fall is that u loose the rear bumper sensor function.  I could not figure out how to hardwire/tap in to the taillights 

All other adapters will throw errors on your dash and think

you have a trailer connect when the truck is in motion. Below is the only adapter you can use with no trailer errors and backup sensors work. Trust... learn from my mistake

https://www.putco.com/529005

 

 

 

 

 

C62CB48F-1DD5-4698-A791-E41C91FF8302.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted
46 minutes ago, Jacob007 said:

All other adapters will throw errors on your dash and think

you have a trailer connect when the truck is in motion. Below is the only adapter you can use with no trailer errors and backup sensors work. Trust... learn from my mistake

https://www.putco.com/529005

 

 

 

 

 

C62CB48F-1DD5-4698-A791-E41C91FF8302.jpeg

Will that adapter work with the Opt?

Posted
6 hours ago, Nola Sciko said:

I have the Opt 7 with module on my Rst. Works and looks awesome only down fall is that u loose the rear bumper sensor function.  I could not figure out how to hardwire/tap in to the taillights 

I think you need this module for the Opt7 lights.

 

http://www.opt-7.com/tow-package-module-for-redline-led-tailgate-bars/?sku=820-02427&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInZOOurTt4wIVCZ6fCh1iJAafEAQYASABEgKd9vD_BwE

 

 

Posted
All other adapters will throw errors on your dash and think
you have a trailer connect when the truck is in motion. Below is the only adapter you can use with no trailer errors and backup sensors work. Trust... learn from my mistake
https://www.putco.com/529005
 
 
   
 
C62CB48F-1DD5-4698-A791-E41C91FF8302.thumb.jpeg.6d8368221d7ea77891b48d426226197e.jpeg

Second that Putco is clean and simple
No wire taps


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Posted
On 8/5/2019 at 5:49 PM, Nola Sciko said:

I have the Opt 7 with module on my Rst. Works and looks awesome only down fall is that u loose the rear bumper sensor function.  I could not figure out how to hardwire/tap in to the taillights 

I sent in a question to the Tech Support guys at Opt7. Here is their response:

 

Thank you for your inquiry.
Unfortunately, we were not able to receive a screenshot from your previous message.
The module is a universal application, it will work with most vehicles.

The Triple Tailgate has 3 possible installation methods: Plug & Play; No module. Plug & Play with module and hard-wired.

Triple Tailgate Only (Plug & Play): Vehicles that do not have any of the following equipped:
-Rear Camera
-Back-up/Parking Sensor
-Trailer Assist Feature (HUD display that provides trailer connection status notifications)
-BLIS (Blind Spot Notification Signal)

Triple Tailgate + Module (PWM Adapter) (Plug & Play): Vehicles equipped with any of the following:
-Rear Camera
-Back-up/Parking Sensor
-Trailer Assist Feature (HUD display that provides trailer connection status notifications)

Triple Tailgate (Hard-wired)
-BLIS (Blind Spot Notification Signal)
-Some tailgates will only function hard-wired on certain vehicles.

* Vehicles with a BLIS or Blind Spot Sensor Systems must use the hard-wire extension kit included with the kit. 
The kit will technically not be Plug & Play in this case.

**Vehicles that do not have a BLIS or Blind Spot Sensor System but do have a rear camera, rear parking sensor or a Trailer Assist System that provides heads up display status updates will require the addition of the OPT7 Optional Accessories Signal Module.

Best Regards,
Salvador G. 
OPT7 Customer Experience Team

  • 5 months later...
Posted

I purchased this with the add on module for my 2019 GMC Sierra Denali 1500.  I tried the curt adapter and I tried hardwiring as Opt 7 shows in a youtube video.  Both of these installs disabled my sensors and cross traffic alert thinking I was towing something.  Does anyone have a good remedy to solve this.  I contacted Opt7 and they said just send the product back for a full refund but I really like the look of the lights but losing all safety features is a real bummer.  Anyone have success with this?  Or suggestions. 

Posted
On 8/6/2019 at 8:31 PM, Opiedeegs said:

How do you install it with this harness?
Second that Putco is clean and simple
No wire taps


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

Posted

I have a max trailer package on mine.  It has no 4 pin jack at all.  The absurdity of that aside, would the putco one still work in my case?

Posted
On 8/4/2019 at 7:42 AM, Opiedeegs said:

I had quite a bit of difficulty trying to remove the multi pro tailgate
Could not get the passenger side hinge to release
I got the blade installed anyways would’ve been much easier without the tailgate
The wiring harness is nice so you don’t have to scotch lock any of the tail light wires


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

I can get my passenger side off easily at 45 degree angle.  Can’t get the drivers side to release in any position.  How do you get the drivers side off?  Please help!

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 360 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     
    • Good evening. I was lucky enough to get passed down to me a 2007 GMC LBZ that was my great uncle's. While the underside and rockers are more or less gone I feel like with time I can restore it to working order since it only has 110,000 miles and he put nearly every option he could get without getting the new body style since he did not trust DEF. So far I have done everything I can think of but when I put the key into the ignition nothing happens. I put 2 brand new batteries in it. Cleaned the terminals. Check all the fuses and relays and they all pass with my multimeter. I know I'm missing something that I just cant think of. The only odd thing is the OBD2 port works which makes me think its not the mega fuse. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...