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GM OEM Spray Foam Insulation


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17 hours ago, 300 Blackout said:


Thank you. The 3M 8463 is what I found that the body shops use to replace the OEM flexible foam after a collision repair. Unfortunately it’s about $45 for 200ml. But that’s probably the route I’m going to go. The main area I’m gonna use foam is just under the rear window and the B & C pillars.

You might look at the 3M 8458 Pillar Foam, that sounds more appropriate for what your using it for. 

 

I would think that's what I would use in your scenario.

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You might look at the 3M 8458 Pillar Foam, that sounds more appropriate for what your using it for. 
 
I would think that's what I would use in your scenario.

Yep, I’ve read a lot about both. For now, I don’t want to introduce additional rigidity where it didn’t originally exist. My concern is if all of the body panels/components are expected to have a certain degree of flex, by making one part more rigid, it may cause too much stress elsewhere.
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I used lizard skin both the sound deadening and ceramic for heat and this stuff is great.  I'm redoing an 85 iroc now and I will use this again on this car.
imagejpeg_0(278).thumb.jpg.aa0b3d022309f071583e0628dd414da8.jpg

If I were to do it again, I would likely choose Lizard Skin as my primary dampening material and then add some fabric based product on top of it. I’d still want an expanding foam in the concealed spaces though.

The butyl rubber and neoprene have made a significant impact in the noise reduction, but it was a ton of work cutting all of the individual neoprene pieces and gluing them down. Even though the butyl has an adhesive backing, and was really easy to apply, rolling it down with the correct amount of force took a fair amount of effort to finish the whole cab.

Masking everything prior to spraying Lizard Skin would take some time but I still think it would have been a faster process. Live and learn.
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3 hours ago, 300 Blackout said:


If I were to do it again, I would likely choose Lizard Skin as my primary dampening material and then add some fabric based product on top of it. I’d still want an expanding foam in the concealed spaces though.

The butyl rubber and neoprene have made a significant impact in the noise reduction, but it was a ton of work cutting all of the individual neoprene pieces and gluing them down. Even though the butyl has an adhesive backing, and was really easy to apply, rolling it down with the correct amount of force took a fair amount of effort to finish the whole cab.

Masking everything prior to spraying Lizard Skin would take some time but I still think it would have been a faster process. Live and learn.

Yea I had the advantage of doing this on my Chevelle before paint so did not have to worry with the overspray much.  It was a little humid when I did it so took a little longer to dry.  I will use this in every car I redo.

20171107_1330061(3).jpg

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1 hour ago, L86 All Terrain said:

^^ What a beauty dude. Love the 1st gen's with the hood tach. What is the spec., Malibu SS 283 w/ 4spd? 

Thank you very much a lot of time and money went into this project.  THe car is a Malibu 283 2 barrel power-glide right now.

The future brings a ramjet 350 with a 700r4 and 342 gears besides that the only thing i need to finish is the headliner and package tray.  I also might do classic cragar s/s wheels with white raised letter tires.  Then just cruise the hell out of her. 

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at home depot they have "Great Stuff" in several different variants that expand different amount. All you need do is get a water spray bottle and mist the area. It cures with moisture. It is polyurethane and stays somewhat flexible. I have used it to fill door voids  for sound deadening and many other things. about $3.50 a can. It is very sticky when applied and cleans up with acetone.

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at home depot they have "Great Stuff" in several different variants that expand different amount. All you need do is get a water spray bottle and mist the area. It cures with moisture. It is polyurethane and stays somewhat flexible. I have used it to fill door voids  for sound deadening and many other things. about $3.50 a can. It is very sticky when applied and cleans up with acetone.

Thanks for the recommendation. I did some testing with Great Stuff and it doesn’t always cure in the middle of the foam, this is especially true in larger gaps (even with their Large Gaps and Cracks foam). Also, any water that you spray that isn’t catalyzed remains trapped against the panel. The other concern is that any damage to the foam skin will leave an open cell foam exposed, risking trapping moisture. I’m not sure how durable the skin would be under the temperature and vibration conditions of a vehicle. It may work very well and I just don’t have all the facts, but I’m not willing to risk it right now.
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