Jump to content

GM OEM Spray Foam Insulation


Recommended Posts

Posted

At the base of my C pillar, there is a blue spray foam insulation in the void spaces of the body. It’s a flexible foam and I’d like to obtain more of it. Does anyone know what product it is or what product GM recommends as a replacement? Thanks for any help. 

EC2F2C85-0722-4E4B-989A-EA57838728D5.jpeg

Posted

yes I do.

 

It should be found by 3m it has a very special 2 part application gun. Only think I don't know is the exact product as there are a few to pick. NVH foam

 

10748ggif_00000004757.gif

Posted
56 minutes ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

yes I do.

 

It should be found by 3m it has a very special 2 part application gun. Only think I don't know is the exact product as there are a few to pick. NVH foam

 

10748ggif_00000004757.gif

That’s a huge help! Thank you. Nothing like rigging up some lighting to keep working after dark. 

F26B5769-9BC8-408D-B64E-C501211A45F1.jpeg

Posted

Are you spray foaming the floor of your truck? For what reason? They are the quietest trucks I have ever ridden in and hold cabin temp quite well in -40c Canadian temps with no winter front. Putting some big subwoofers in? 

Posted
5 hours ago, [email protected] said:

What are you doing inside your truck?

I’m sound deadening it. 

4 hours ago, L86 All Terrain said:

Are you spray foaming the floor of your truck? For what reason? They are the quietest trucks I have ever ridden in and hold cabin temp quite well in -40c Canadian temps with no winter front. Putting some big subwoofers in? 

I’m putting down butyl rubber then neoprene on top. Then, I’d like to fill in some of the void spaces with foam. When I got my first Sierra back in late 2013c I agree, it was one of the quietest vehicle I had ever owned.

 

Fast forward to this truck + long tube headers dumped before the rear wheel and well, 95 decibels cruising on the highway at 70mph just isn’t fun. Also, after 5 years of use, every creak and squeak that the plastic parts can make, well they’re making them. 

 

The disassembly was way easier than I thought it would be. I learned a lot. I also found a ground that was corroded so I cleaned all of them, put some dielectric grease and re-tightened. Fun project but time consuming. 

Posted

Ill see what I find on the chart at work tomorrow

Posted
On 8/4/2019 at 5:40 AM, 300 Blackout said:


Because it doesn’t expand. Also, not sure how well it cures in an enclosed space.

It will cure fine if it has the appropriate time. I wouldn't want to put anything that expands in, just going to make reassembly harder. Also I'd want something that wouldn't trap moisture between the floor panel and whatever you put on top.

Posted

So Ive got 2 numbers for you and that's as follows..

3M 8463 Felixible Foam

3M 8458 Pillar Foam (Rigid) adds strength to pillar

Posted
So Ive got 2 numbers for you and that's as follows..
3M 8463 Felixible Foam
3M 8458 Pillar Foam (Rigid) adds strength to pillar

Thank you. The 3M 8463 is what I found that the body shops use to replace the OEM flexible foam after a collision repair. Unfortunately it’s about $45 for 200ml. But that’s probably the route I’m going to go. The main area I’m gonna use foam is just under the rear window and the B & C pillars.
Posted
It will cure fine if it has the appropriate time. I wouldn't want to put anything that expands in, just going to make reassembly harder. Also I'd want something that wouldn't trap moisture between the floor panel and whatever you put on top.

All of the exposed areas of the floor have already been insulated with butyl rubber and neoprene, using silicone as the adhesive. The reason for a liquid expanding foam product is only to reach some of the enclosed void space, like inside the pillars. An expanding foam product would be idea for that purpose. I read a lot about Lizard Skin. Seems like a really good product, but not ideal for this purpose.
Posted

I used lizard skin both the sound deadening and ceramic for heat and this stuff is great.  I'm redoing an 85 iroc now and I will use this again on this car.

imagejpeg_0(278).jpg

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • New member here, very long time occasional guest. Saw this thread, thought it would be a good time to contribute someting. It is only my experience and not a claim that everyone will have the same.   I bought my '20 3500 L5P new and have put 99.9% (literally) of it's current ~400k miles on it myself, with over 50% of that towing loads between 4k to 15k, and to me this truck has been nothing short of amazing. For the first 235k I had zero issues, and from there until 321k I replaced a NOx sensor, two failing glow plugs, and three of the notorious injector connectors. I believe this truck is in part, a testament to good luck, but also good care and following a decent maintenance schedule (I also keep meticulous records.) As a result, it looks as good as a well cared for 70k rig, up and down, inside and out.   At some point before that 321k mile mark I began to get a little spooked about the 10L1000, especially the valve body. Word of mouth about potential issues prompted me to jump on the net to sift through all the noise and determine what all the fuss was about. I routinely take long trips, coast-to-coast and points in between, so roadside breakdowns can be '...a thousand miles from nowhere' and a bit of a challenge, and though I had no issues, my guard was up and activated.   And then I stumbled across a chance to salvage some parts off a new 2025 that had been wrecked in transport. I grabbed a few wear items (alternator, pulleys, etc.) and on a whim asked what the ten speeder would cost me. It was cheap...really cheap. I knew some changes had been made in the '24+ version 10L and were supposedly not compatible, but I called service/parts at my local Chevy dealer and asked why and they didn't know. A call to a well known aftermarket transmission outfit revealed it was very likely it would be fine, but to them not 100% sure.   Because it was cheap (really cheap) and I was spooked, I took the chance. Had it installed by a local shop and it worked like a champ, shifted just like the original. At it's first service at 37k, I had the shop put in a Next Gen valve body kit, which after some initial hiccups and rough shifts, smoothed out though with somewhat firmer shifting.   All that said, I have a very serious concern about my newer transmission as just two weeks ago it suddenly began to exhibit a strong reluctance to engage forward or reverse. It was a bit past due anyway so I took it in for service. The reason it was sticking was due to 'glitter' in the fluid clogging the filter...not good folks, often indicates a converter giving out. We ended up going ahead with the new filter and fluid, first to see if it would move and shift, and then if so buy me a little time. It did, and I've driven it over a thousand miles and it is shifting smooth, no noises or slipping. Regardless, it looks like a third gearbox is in my future so I can resume taking long trips with some confidence. In the very short term, my curiosity will have me examining the fluid to check how much glitter has reappeared.   An earlier poster had alleged, in the context of 10L100 failures, that it is another example of how we seasoned citizens somehow descend into hysteria, lose control of our senses, and react irrationally after brief encounters with the idiocy of the internet infosphere. Let me say (and I have used and abused said internet since it's infancy) there is no segment of the populace that has a corner on over-reaction to digital garbage. Just as my offering of experience in this arena is purely anecdotal and should not be considered gospel or all-encompassing, I believe it is still worthwhile information to consider, along with other relevant anecdotal experiences about things like complex transmissions, especially when balanced with other sources.   So to answer the original question, yes I got high miles out of my first 10L, trouble free for 321,000. Now I really wonder how much longer it would have went. Did I 'overreact' to the internet ghouls by replacing a 'good' one with a 'bad' one? Maybe. Who knows, the thing might have taken a puke a 100 miles later. So I'll just fix it again, then move on and start thinking about all the other stuff that will eventually wear out. It still has the original brakes (they're at ~60%), original injectors/pump, turbo, water pump, etc....pretty much original everything. Knock on wood.
    • At peak temperature.  They get to cool down and warm up more, especially those with the external cooler.  I have three GMT900s and one of them has over 225K on its original transmission.  Fluid gets changed about every 36K miles, all of it.     It's not the bean counters, it was the government.  They had to meet CAFE standards and other government requirements.   To get around that, we tune them and modify them to our liking.
    • Our customers' safety isn't something we take lightly. To ensure you get the proper assistance for your truck's repairs, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • We appreciate you sharing your experience with your truck. To ensure we get you the proper assistance, please fill out the form at https://s.chevy.com/support-request with all pertinent details including your username.
    • PCM?  These don't have a "PCM".  Powertrain Control Module.  They have an ECM (Engine Control Module) and TCM (Transmission Control Module).   Do you mean update the radio?     You can check what version you have in the settings page.  Should be Y181 but there might be a newer build they can update it to.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...