Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I checked my air filter at 22k miles to see what it looked like. I was given a new AC Delco (GM OEM) filter when I bought the truck as a sort of incentive. I decided to replace the filter since it was at no cost to me. Well...come to find out, the filter in there is a FRAM filter--not the OE filter that was supposed to come with the truck. WTF? It even said "FIAT" on the filter. Not sure when it was swapped out but likely from the dealer when I bought it "new." When I bought it, the truck had 315 miles on it and obviously was used for something prior to getting into my hand.

 

BTW: The cabin air filter was extremely dirty so I will have to check that more often--this is a highway queen so it's not like I have been surfing dirt roads. 

Posted

Not trying to be smart ass but curious how a $20 filter was incentive in buying a $40k +  truck?    Did you check the underside for anything unusual? Even though it was only 315 miles I wonder if it had some high water that entered the filter area before your purchase and they threw in a cheap replacement filter?

  • Thanks 1
  • Haha 1
Posted

What?

I didn't take it this way.

2 hours ago, madsen203 said:

when I bought the truck as a sort of incentive.

:)

Posted
2 hours ago, madsen203 said:

I checked my air filter at 22k miles to see what it looked like. I was given a new AC Delco (GM OEM) filter when I bought the truck as a sort of incentive. I decided to replace the filter since it was at no cost to me. Well...come to find out, the filter in there is a FRAM filter--not the OE filter that was supposed to come with the truck. WTF? It even said "FIAT" on the filter. Not sure when it was swapped out but likely from the dealer when I bought it "new." When I bought it, the truck had 315 miles on it and obviously was used for something prior to getting into my hand. 

 

BTW: The cabin air filter was extremely dirty so I will have to check that more often--this is a highway queen so it's not like I have been surfing dirt roads. 

 

Got any pictures of the filter you took out?  Any part numbers/brands stamped on the outer pleats?  Usually the OE filters will have numbers/brands printed on the end pleats. 

Posted
14 minutes ago, newdude said:

 

Got any pictures of the filter you took out?  Any part numbers/brands stamped on the outer pleats?  Usually the OE filters will have numbers/brands printed on the end pleats. 

The brand stated "FRAM" made in Canada and then "Fiat" 

 

It was orange in color - classic Fram air filter. The AC Delco has a black silicone around it. 

 

I threw it out. It was a proper fit but why was it replaced? Truck only had  300 miles so it's not like they needed to replace it if that was the case. 

 

There was a $100 accessory credit you could get at the time so I asked that they give me parts instead. I got several oil filters, cabin and air filter, and some o-rings for the oil plug. Basically enough so I could do my own oil changes for some time. 

Posted
33 minutes ago, dukedkt442 said:

Where did you buy this truck? Was it an auction truck, or did the dealer family also sell F-C?

I bought it from kendall Automall in Idaho

Posted
20 minutes ago, madsen203 said:

I bought it from kendall Automall in Idaho

I meant that more rhetorically, but was it an actual Chevy dealer? An auto mall sounds anything but. And if not an actual Chevy dealer, that begs the question how said dealer got it with only a few hundred miles on it. I don’t mean to sound accusatory but i can’t help but think that some crucial piece of information is missing. 

Posted
1 hour ago, madsen203 said:

The brand stated "FRAM" made in Canada and then "Fiat" 

 

It was orange in color - classic Fram air filter. The AC Delco has a black silicone around it. 

 

I threw it out. It was a proper fit but why was it replaced? Truck only had  300 miles so it's not like they needed to replace it if that was the case. 

 

There was a $100 accessory credit you could get at the time so I asked that they give me parts instead. I got several oil filters, cabin and air filter, and some o-rings for the oil plug. Basically enough so I could do my own oil changes for some time. 


Perhaps the entire air box was replaced?  Truck have a clean carfax?

Posted
47 minutes ago, reardiff said:

I just looked at their website and they have some great prices.  There's a SLT 6.2 MSRP of $62,560 on sale for $47,303.   That's just over 25% off! https://www.kendallautomall.com/ 

 HELL YEAH they got great prices they’re scamming air filters off new trucks everybody knows that’s where the real money is...

 

Question for the OP does this dealership require the salesman to go out with you on test drives? If not some cheap ass probably swapped out filters cause they are to cheap to buy one. Trust me this kind of thing happens...

 

Also always change your own oil? If not better check your receipts or maybe homeboy @ the quickie lube needed a new one for his truck?

 

The cabin filter set up in these suck. I change mine once a year regardless of miles.

(mines a garage queen)

  • Haha 1
Posted
50 minutes ago, newdude said:


Perhaps the entire air box was replaced?  Truck have a clean carfax?

Clean as far as I can tell. Who knows...Sketch.

 

they are a reputable dealer. I got my 2018 last June for 42.1k when MSRP was 62.3k. 

 

They are are a certified OE dealer/service but have several brands and thus the automall name. 

 

Im not worried about it-the filter was clean-but was like a huge WTF moment. 

 

Likely an an inside job. Why? I’m not sure. 

Posted

Then they simply used whatever brand filter was cheapest. Who knows why at that point. When I bought men e83 I discovered 2 years later that the cabin air filter was missing. 

Posted

Or what if....

 

The factory ran into a parts shortage on the AC Delco filters, and had to pull from another supplier temporarily to keep the line moving. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 446 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...