Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 10/18/2019 at 7:13 PM, bass mechanic said:

 

Have any of you head a faint low frequency engine knock at idle from under the truck?

Seems like it doesn’t happen all the time but occasionally after it’s been driven and I start it up again.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Yes since day one and it gets louder as the engine reaches operating temperature. Had dealership work with GM and after a week they said it's normal. They gave me the ticking printout. I even had the truck put on their computer. I had them pull other new 2020s. The other new trucks did it also. I am stumped!!!

Posted (edited)

Heads up diesel knocking folks:   

 

Quote

 

#PIP5711: 2020 6.6 L5P Duramax Warm Engine Idle Knock Noise - (Mar 3, 2020)

 

Condition: Customers may have a concern of a thumping or knocking noise coming from what sounds like the rear of the engine.

 

Cause: Characteristic noise being amplified by the transmission bell housing.

 

Correction

The noise described in this communication is audible in the interior and exterior of the vehicle but is more pronounced in the interior.

The noise is easiest to duplicate under the following conditions:

Engine at idle (about 600 RPM)

Engine oil temperature 113 - 185 degrees Fahrenheit (45 - 85 degrees Celsius) 

Transmission in P/N

HVAC fan off

Radio off

 

To verify this is the noise described in this PI, remove the accessory drive auxiliary belt.  If the noise level is significantly reduced it should be considered characteristic of the 2020 MY truck and no further repair attempts should be made.

 

Engineering has provided the following procedure for belt removal, testing and installation:

  1. Remove the air cleaner housing.
  2. Remove intake air duct.
  3. Separate the charge air cooler (CAC) tube and position aside.
  4. Remove belt and position aside.
  5. Install CAC tube.
  6. Loosely place air box and intake duct back in place. (So you don’t set a code for sensor when starting.)
  7. Start engine and verify noise is gone.
  8. Remove loosely installed air box and intake duct.
  9. Separate CAC tube.
  10. Install belt.
  11. Install CAC tube.
  12. Install air box and duct.
  13.  

Note: Do not run the vehicle more than three minutes without the auxiliary belt installed. Do not raise the RPM higher than idle with the belt removed.

This noise has no short or long term effects on the engine. Do not attempt repairs for this noise.

 

The short of it is...take it in, have them pull the belt.  Have them run it with you present if possible when the belt is off.  

 

Edited by newdude
Posted
7 hours ago, Capt.Wackencracker said:

That's the exact location I picked up the noise with my stethoscope! 

Don't see any drive belts nearby.

yeah but that GM document on belts/pulleys might help someone, so I posted it. It's not as if GM is on these forums providing concrete course of action for owners with noisy trucks or even basic info.

That photo displays the source of the thump at idle on my new truck.

I had to check twice, but you are correct!!! No belts nearby.

Posted

I wish they had a section regarding: "If the noise does not stop..."  Has anyone done this at home or at the dealer to check it?

Posted

My first chime in for this topic.

My 2020 Denali DRW is being built in 2 weeks so I will be checking it out closely.

I used to be a Chevy tech and finding stuff like this was my life.

I'll get my stethoscope out & will be all over this engine like a monkey on a muffin if there are any noises.

If you guys can let me know what the oil pressures are that you have been seeing at different temps and RPM's, that would also be a help because I'm curious to hear that the noise was less after the new oil pump was installed.

Also state whether the oil pres reading is from the dash gage, dash digital readout, scan tool or a master gage installed into the oil gallery somewhere.

There is always an explanation when something is different than it has been before.

  • Like 2
Posted

I just picked up a Denali built in mid February and it is making the same noise.  To me it does sound like it is coming from the fan clutch.  I hope there is going to be a fix soon, definitely very annoying.

Posted

I just purchased my new 2020 duramax. With 600 miles on it. it now has a loud thumping noice at an idle after it warms up. I have owned a view never had this noise. Any suggestions?

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Man, I've had the itch for a new High Country lately but I'll wait and see what happens with this knocking. I couldn't live with that noise! It would drive me crazy!

Edited by 20Bowtie14
Posted (edited)

Hey it's no big deal unless it gets worse over time.  Many of us old timers on this site remember and lived with the cold start knock and piston slap that was very evident on the 99+ 5.3L & 4.8L engines.  Most of those engines ended up serving us just fine with no long term effects. 

Edited by Colossus

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • First off use it in the way you’re more comfortable. In working in off road situations most of my life I used 4WD low range very little. In most cases when equipped I used auto 4WD. If I wanted maximum control going up and down very steep terrain  I used low range. Especially if I was driving a diesel. Same with very rutted terrain. In very muddy or snowy conditions I wanted momentum so high range worked well for that. With gravel ramps with limited traction I would try high range first. I would want smooth even increasing speed if I was fighting traction. Low range could give you too much to the wheels breaking traction trying to move. 
    • Having owned 4wd vehicle since the 1970s I find there are varying opinions on how to use 4wd, every owner is an expert in their minds.  IMO, 4LO is the appropriate gear and what I would use,  You have to feather the gas to avoid spinning tires and the lower the gear the better chance.  But like I said you will find those that think their method is best.  I live near a boat launch.  Yesterday there was a new Ford Maverick pulling out a pontoon boat almost 2x its size, they had no problems and they don't have a LO range.   True story. One winter day not long ago I was coming out of small town post office and there was a F150 4wd parked in front and was stuck foot deep snow ruts. I knew the lady so I asked her to put it in 4wd (wondering why in the middle of a 2-day snow storm she wasn't).  Her reply surprised me, "my husband" (the expert) told me not use that because it uses too much gas. She finally got unstuck spinning in 2wd which likely used more gas than not.  
    • Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...