Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
52 minutes ago, Roadrunner45 said:

To update on the disposition of the repairs.  The good news is the thumping seems to be less pronounced than before but still present. In park and drive at slow speeds it seems a tad bit less than previously. I used to hear the sound through around 4-5 gear that seems to have been corrected at least in the short drive from the dealer to my home. Going to put it to the test tomorrow and tow my 14,,500 pound 5th wheel almost 700 miles. 

I will update of any changes from my first impressions.

I was really hoping this was the fix my service department said that a few with this issue had been corrected by the pump replacement but not in this case. The tech would did the work stated the the bottom end of the engine looked great no shavings in the oil, blue-ing of the rod caps etc.

 

Thanks for the update!  Good to know they did not find any major damage but I was sure hoping the knock would be gone.  

Ours is still as loud as ever but does not seem to be causing any other issues.   Put over 1200 miles on it last weekend with no issues.  

Love the 10sp tranny and the gas mileage we get.  Going to hope it gives us years of worry-free driving!

Posted

I have the same what I call "clunking" noise in my 3500HD Denali that got a little louder after putting 500 miles on it.  It is for sure noticeable when standing outside the truck.  The good news is that it's very faint in the cab and as it warms up it pretty much goes away inside the cab.  Especially with the radio going.  So if you no longer hear the noise in the cab, especially after warming up, I would say this is something everyone else has versus being an excessive noise.

Posted
19 hours ago, Roadrunner45 said:

To update on the disposition of the repairs.  The good news is the thumping seems to be less pronounced than before but still present. In park and drive at slow speeds it seems a tad bit less than previously. I used to hear the sound through around 4-5 gear that seems to have been corrected at least in the short drive from the dealer to my home. Going to put it to the test tomorrow and tow my 14,,500 pound 5th wheel almost 700 miles. 

I will update of any changes from my first impressions.

I was really hoping this was the fix my service department said that a few with this issue had been corrected by the pump replacement but not in this case. The tech would did the work stated the the bottom end of the engine looked great no shavings in the oil, blue-ing of the rod caps etc.

 

You say a bit less so does that mean not very noticeable? Do they have any idea what may be causing the thumping noise? I've heard it may be the motor echoing through the bell housing. That explanation seems odd because I've heard others with up to 10K miles with a very faint noise that you have to listen for. Mine can be heard with the radio on at times. And at times not loud at all. It does get louder when it's warmed up though. 

Posted (edited)

Ok update I now have 3500 miles on my truck I am the original poster of this thread. My truck is warm and in the garage idling while I add some DEF and I think the knocking has gotten better. I have not changed the oil or anything. Just driving it.
So I took another video while in the garage to compare with the original.


Here’s the original

 

 

 

 

 


I don’t think I’m going to worry about it and I’ll see how it sounds after my first oil change


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Edited by bass mechanic
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I just picked up my 2020 denali 2500 hd duramax today.

This is my third duramax and my 5th diesel.

I'm 70 yrs.old and been a tech and shop owner most of my life.

Noticed the thump/knock immediately. 

Went to the salesman and listened to another denali diesel.(new)

It was quiet as a baby. Then went to the service advisor and the diesel tech with the same old BS that it was normal and they really couldn't hear what I heard. They said to drive it, and don't worry, it's under warranty.

I think someone should post an email address and phone number we can all flood with our same problem.

There's safety in numbers and Hopefully,,if they get enough owners complaining, they might get off their butts and do some actual research on the problem.

I know GM has changed the lift pumps recently because the Bosch pumps were manufactured for diesel fuel sold in Germany.  The problem was that US diesel was thinner which contributed to lift pumps overheating and creating metal shavings that damaged the engines. Maybe these new pumps might be a good place to start.

Any updates from the forum are greatly appreciated,  and I  will update as time goes by.

Thanks to all who have taken the time to post so far. 

Posted

I agree that we should all complain to GM.    Bought 2020 Chevy 2500 High Country in November.  Noticed the thump/knock right away.  Same response from my dealer... it is normal.  

Posted
8 hours ago, Colossus said:

well what if it is normal? 

If it is, why do some 2020 Duramax's have and some do not?  Some are much quieter as well but still have it.  Why are there so many different answers from dealers across the country saying all kinds of things?   We are hoping it is normal too and our new truck lasts for years but it is a nail biter for sure when you spend that kind of money!

Posted

For what it's worth, and as I mentioned in another post, it definitely sounds like a pump of some sort to me.  I notice that the knock comes on for 1-2 seconds right at cold start-up, then the overall sound of the motor changes (hard to describe, but like a higher idle and maybe a change to injection timing versus compression due to the cold start). Then the knock stops for 2 minutes or so.

 

Also, it seems to be knocking at less than engine speed (could rule out an issue with rotating assembly).

 

If it is not the fuel/lift pump, could it be something with the turbo?  I am not familiar with how it works. Could it be some sort of waste gate "puffing" or something?

Posted
1 minute ago, Tomato said:

For what it's worth, and as I mentioned in another post, it definitely sounds like a pump of some sort to me.  I notice that the knock comes on for 1-2 seconds right at cold start-up, then the overall sound of the motor changes (hard to describe, but like a higher idle and maybe a change to injection timing versus compression due to the cold start). Then the knock stops for 2 minutes or so.

 

Also, it seems to be knocking at less than engine speed (could rule out an issue with rotating assembly).

 

If it is not the fuel/lift pump, could it be something with the turbo?  I am not familiar with how it works. Could it be some sort of waste gate "puffing" or something?

the issue with this is 1 undeniable fact, the sound is a deep thud sounds unmistakably either inside the block or if your theory is correct something attached to the block. sounds exactly like rod knock 

Posted
5 minutes ago, bass mechanic said:

the issue with this is 1 undeniable fact, the sound is a deep thud sounds unmistakably either inside the block or if your theory is correct something attached to the block. sounds exactly like rod knock 

You don't think it is at too slow of an RPM to be a rod knock?  Too bad we can't connect a timing light to compare.  Or is there a way to connect some sort of tool to each cylinder that tells you when it reaches TDC?

Posted

I spent a few minutes with my listening device (stethoscope) and found that the thumping was most pronounced and resonated where I am pointing with the orange handle in the 2 pictures. I do not know diesels well at all, but I believe this is all part of the turbo, right?  Good to note that I did not pick anything up at the bottom of the motor or on the tops of the valve covers. Thoughts?

FDBE0E92-A56B-4041-9AE7-9532CFB284AB.jpeg

Posted

This is the second area where the sound is most pronounced.  It is the back tube coming off the top of the motor.

54EDA00B-4DC0-4EF7-AEB0-57AA90C80871.jpeg

Posted
1 minute ago, Tomato said:

This is the second area where the sound is most pronounced.  It is the back tube coming off the top of the motor.

54EDA00B-4DC0-4EF7-AEB0-57AA90C80871.jpeg

well if that's true my assessment is if the sound comes from that far up on the engine it is a fuel injector and is likely normal.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 3.41 Kroger’s in Montgomery TX
    • I really wanted to go to the Fox 2.5's But they were like ~$1,500 vs ~$425 for the Bilsteins. And my research on FOX shocks was that they do not have a great reputation for longevity. I am sure they the FOX's are fantastic, but I know from experience the Bilsteins are rock solid for at least 150k miles. 
    • Conditions for Meeting a Cold Start   The ignition voltage is between 10 and 15 V. The barometric pressure (BARO) is more than 75 kPa. The engine coolant temperature (ECT) at start-up is less than 42°C (108°F). The intake air temperature (IAT) is between 2–32°C (36–90°F). The engine is OFF for greater than 6 hours or the following conditions must be met: The start-up IAT minus start-up ECT are within 12°C (22°F). The start-up ECT minus start-up IAT are within 50°C (90°F). Fuel level is between 25 and 75 %.   Circuit/System Verification Verify that all I/M System Status indicators report YES, and that no I/M Test DTCs are present.If any I/M Test DTCs are set Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle. If no I/M Test DTCs are set All OK. Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System Set Procedure   Warning: Refer to Road Test Warning. Note: Do NOT touch the accelerator pedal until told to do so. A change in TP Sensor angle or an increase in engine speed may invalidate this portion of the test.   Note: An I/M Test DTC will not be stored or erased from the ECU except at the end of trip processing, which occurs 5 s after ignition OFF.   Ensure that the vehicle meets the conditions for a cold start listed above. If the EVAP I/M System Status indicator displays NO, perform the EVAP Service bay test if applicable. Turn OFF all of the accessories; HVAC system, other electrical loads, including aftermarket/add-on equipment, etc., and open the hood.   Set the vehicle parking brake and ensure the vehicle is in park for automatic transmission or neutral for manual transmission.   Start and idle the engine for 2 min.   Close the hood, release the parking brake and Accelerate at part throttle to 72–80 km/h (45–50 mph) with this speed maintained until the engine reaches operating temperature, 8–10 min.   Continue operation under these conditions for an additional 6 min.   Accelerate at part throttle to 90 km/h (55 mph) with this speed maintained for 2 min.   Release the accelerator pedal for at least 10 s. This will allow the vehicle to enter the decel fuel cut off.   Safely stop the vehicle, with the engine in drive for automatic or neutral with the clutch pedal depressed and parking brake applied for manual. Allow the vehicle to idle for 2 min.   Shift the vehicle to park for automatic and neutral for manual. Turn OFF the ignition and exit the vehicle. Do NOT disturb the vehicle for 45 min.   Observe the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System Status with a scan tool. All of the I/M System Status indicators should display YES.   If the EVAP I/M System Status indicator displays NO, turn OFF the ignition, ensure that the vehicle meets the conditions for a cold start, and repeat steps 6-11 three more times, or until the EVAP I/M System Status indicator transitions to YES. If the indicator continues to display NO, refer to the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System DTC Table to identify the DTCs that did not run.   If any of the I/M System Status indicators display NO, refer to the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System DTC Table for the indicator which did not display YES. The I/M System DTC Table identifies the DTCs associated with each I/M System Status Indicator.   Observe the I/M Test DTC information with a scan tool. Verify there are no I/M Test DTCs present. If an I/M Test DTC is set, diagnose the DTC using the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle and refer to Inspection/Maintenance System Check.   Observe the engine DTC information with a scan tool. Verify no DTCs are present. If a DTC is set, diagnose using the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle. After repairs, perform the Inspection/Maintenance Complete System Set Procedure to verify no further DTCs are set.       Looks like one procedure to me.  Repeated as necessary.
    • My 2020 AT4 6.2 has had the valve spring issue addressed at ~200 miles, front cover/pump replaced at 18k, water pump at 34k and idler pully at 65k.  I would agree with ditching by 100k unless you elect to go with upgraded hardware...say built 10l80 and an lt4 or l8p swap.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...