Jump to content

Check engine light

SDMike
 Share

Recommended Posts

SDMike New Member

SDMike

Posted
Posted (edited)

I took my 19’ AT4 in for repair 2 days after I bought it because the check engine light came on with 150 miles on it. They found nothing wrong, so I picked it up. 2 days later, the check engine light came on with 217 miles on it. Took it in again and they receive a code that the auto start/stop control module had a voltage reading that triggered the code. They replaced the module. I drove it for a few more days and the check engine light came on again with 300 (ish) miles on it. I drove it until my appointment a few days later and the light never shut off. The day of my appointment, the check engine light shut off. The Dealership tech called a corporate GM tech and was told to take out fuses 52 & 53 because those control the auto start/stop technology. When they removed the fuses, the truck wouldn’t start at all. They removed to fuse block and found that it was the wrong part number, thus the wrong fuse block. Of course GM is on strike, so they can’t get the new block in due to shipping issues. They say that everything else should work fine, but I don’t trust “should”. Anyone else have similar issues with the auto start/stop or a check engine light?

Edited by SDMike
  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 35
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

SDMike
SDMike

I took my 19’ AT4 in for repair 2 days after I bought it because the check engine light came on with 150 miles on it. They found nothing wrong, so I picked it up. 2 days later, the check engine light

BrettC New Member

BrettC

Posted
Posted

Had a light come on my '20 SLT with 300 miles on it today. Went off before I could have it scanned at Auto Zone. Keeping an eye on it (and this thread now!)

BrettC New Member

BrettC

Posted
Posted
51 minutes ago, davester said:

Even if the light goes out, you can still go and get the codes read to see what happened.

That's what I thought! Had two different Auto Zones tell me otherwise unfortunately...

davester Senior Enthusiast

davester

Posted
Posted

So, they wouldn't hook up their reader to your vehicle, or they did and said there were no codes in the history?

 

I know my truck will store codes for all kinds of stuff, even after I fix the problem.

BrettC New Member

BrettC

Posted
Posted

Didn't even hook it up. I can only assume there is a log or history of some sort given the amount of technology in vehicles these days - maybe their readers just don't have that functionality?

davester Senior Enthusiast

davester

Posted
Posted (edited)

No, even the most basic code readers can get history codes from the engine computer.  And there can be current codes, even if the CEL is off...

Edited by davester
  • 1 month later...
rich1464 New Member

rich1464

Posted
Posted

I am having this issue now. 8 trips to the dealer 4 replacement parts. GM tech is flying out to look into this. 

  • 2 weeks later...
nichos Enthusiast

nichos

Posted
Posted

I had a similar issue. I was unable to remote-start my truck, when I got in I had a "check engine light" on. It stayed on for about 3 or 4 starts.

Took it to the dealer a few days later and he said he was able to see the light came on, and it was a "communication error." He had no idea what that meant though ?

He did say all he can do is keep it here until it reproduces again. I haven't seen it since, been about a month now.

  • 4 months later...
Ae23 New Member

Ae23

Posted
Posted

I have a ‘20 at4 with 1000 miles CEL just came on...??? Anyone ever get any solid response from GM? I plan on stopping by the dealer and seeing what they say tomorrow. 

Kuno Ojeda New Member

Kuno Ojeda

Posted
Posted

same thing happen to me, I remote started my 2020 sierra at4 with 486 miles and when i got on the check engine light was on. after work I didn't use remote start and light was gone?? it makes me mad! brand new truck and a engine light on?? wtf.

Kuno Ojeda New Member

Kuno Ojeda

Posted
Posted
On 5/13/2020 at 7:10 PM, Ae23 said:

I have a ‘20 at4 with 1000 miles CEL just came on...??? Anyone ever get any solid response from GM? I plan on stopping by the dealer and seeing what they say tomorrow. 

you light still one? let me  know what you hear from dealer. Ty

Ae23 New Member

Ae23

Posted
Posted

Light is still on, didn’t make it to the dealer on Friday... it’s on the plan for Monday. I will pass in the response from the dealer. 

bcalaway New Member

bcalaway

Posted
Posted

I purchased a 2020 AT4 6.2L.  Check engine light came on at 40 miles - went away after shutting it off and starting it.  Fast forward 6 days - I have 350 miles on it and am NOT at home.  Go to get into the truck after leaving 'fob' in the truck over night.  The dash tells me "FOB Identified" or whatever the heck it says, and when I go to start my rig after it sitting for a day, I lose ALL power to the truck.  Windows won't roll down, lights won't turn on - completely DEAD.  I took the keyfob and stepped out of the rig trying to unlock/lock and even remote start and NOTHING. 

 

I asked a family member to give me a jump (thankful I was around other people - had I been in the woods I'd be screwed) after 3-4 minutes with cables on, the truck fires up and check engine light is on.   After 15 minutes I shut the truck off and fired it right back up.  Battery levels were fine - everything checked out except for the check engine light not going off.  Drove it 140 miles home and it drove fine - until I took cruise control off and was heading home off the freeway, and it seemed to be "skipping/lunging" at low speeds, almost felt like a misfire/bad fuel or something.  I called the dealership and took it in - they've had it for 1 week now and they claim the light came on due to a transmission code.  I haven't heard BOO from them, but super frustrating that I spent as much as a did to have a truck that I don't have to drive now.....

  • 3 weeks later...
CrimeFactory New Member

CrimeFactory

Posted
Posted

Bought a 2020 GMC 1500 Denali, had issue with the Auto/stop about 5 days after driving it home. Pulled up to a stale red light and I took my foot off the brake the engine was mid auto stop and it went into what felt like convulsions for about 15 seconds in the intersection, almost stalled out but slowly pulled it together and continued driving. ( no check engine light ).  I now try to remember to turn off the auto stop every time I get into the truck, which is somewhat annoying to begin with. Truck has a weird idle at stop, not sure if that's typical of the 6.2 I've only had 5.3s previously. now 4000km I make an appointment for oil change and to have them investigate the auto stop incident, started the truck this morning and check engine light is on.. Changed my appointment to tmw and will have to see what happens. I could tell in the first week of driving this truck it will be prone to auto stop and battery problems, I do have extended warranty but will have to check if auto stop components are covered past 3 yr which I suspect they are not.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Vehicle Payments

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      How did all that extra get added? AI bot! 
    • KARNUT
      Vehicle Payments

      By KARNUT · Posted

      This is interesting. My quote tagged here is different from my original quote. After I’m driving them longer. That isn’t me. I don’t talk that way. I definitely wouldn’t express myself that way. Interesting.
    • UrbanRage
      What have you done to your K2 today?

      By UrbanRage · Posted

      I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...