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Stabilitrac


Deus13

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Posted

My stabilitrac light came on, I was just doin a right hand turn and it turned off engine power. I had to turn the key to start it back up so I know it wasn’t reduced power. The radio screen turned off and the dash as well. Anyone else have this issue or know what it is. I’ve also had other random electrical problem like the air temp being wrong, infotainment screen turns black, dash losses power. 

Posted

2016 Sierra Denali bone stock. I had the issue come up again today. Stabilitrack and Trailer Brake lights came on and the power steering turned off. I again shut the truck off and turned right back on with no problems. This happened at a low speed (under 5mph) and while turning. My iPhone is plugged up and using CarPlay while both of these happened. My CarPlay is having a hard time activating and sometimes the phone will be plugged up and it is still connected via Bluetooth. When the phone is plugged up sometimes it freezes out the radio button and I have to use the touch screen to navigate through settings. I saw a video on the G218 Ground wire and also read up about a wire coming from the Stabilitrack controller box. 

Posted

The battery may be suspect as well. Newer vehicles get downright bizarre electrical gremlins when the battery is going lean.

Posted

Just had this same issue with my 2014 silverado...after paying $100 to have it coded...it was determined to be low voltage battery (7-8volts)...luckily my battery was under warranty at Autozone...swapped out and voltage back to/above normal 12 volts...and Autozone has free code cables to determine what code your truck is putting out FYI (didnt know till after I paid $100 somewhere else)....

Posted

I had stabilitrac issues, as well as other electrical issues.  Turned out to be the neg battery cable, app quite common on these trucks.  Have the dealership the resistance on it. 

Posted

The battery and alternator are both good. I took it to the dealership and they said the battery fuse box wasn’t working correctly. They swapped it out and haven’t had a problem in the last 2 days 

Posted
1 hour ago, Deus13 said:

The battery and alternator are both good. I took it to the dealership and they said the battery fuse box wasn’t working correctly. They swapped it out and haven’t had a problem in the last 2 days 

They always seem to tell you the battery is good.

 

If you are on the original, with winter coming, I would personally look into replacing it, they have a horrible life span.

Posted

It does crank a little slow and weak sounding but I took it to autozone and they confirmed the battery and alternator are running strong. The dealership did suggest a Throttle Body cleaning, they also suggest that. But I will clean thy myself as there is a delay when  accelerating from a stop.   

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    • If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
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    • Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.
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