Jump to content

Gear swap 4:10 to 4:56


Recommended Posts

Posted

I have a 15 6.0, i tow a cargo trailer daily 6klbs and my tt 10klbs 6 times a year. Looking for more out of the truck. Havent been able to find a diesel in my price range (have 3.5 yrs left to pay off, so wanna keep the same payment time frame.) Has anyone did a gear swap and how does it tow and how much of Difference in mpg. The tt gets towed in the mountains and theres some nice inclines.

 

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

 

Posted

Went from 3.73 to 4.56 in my 17 with a 295/60/20 I had installed prior to the gear change.  For rpm just use a calculator for your own combo.  Your 6th gear is 0.67:1.  For reference sake I still turn roughly 300 rpm less than my 4.10 geared stock 245/75/R16 equipped 4L80e trucks do at the same ground speed.  

 

If I did it again... and I may due to paying for screw ups to work on my truck and now the rear howls I would go 4.88 with my tire.  There really isn't too much gear for these heaps and it just gets them in the RPM range they make power in faster.  I can pull hills better than any 6 speed 4.10 gear truck I have had can and I just manually shift it to keep the rpm where I want it.  

 

I don't track mileage... don't care lol.  I put gas in the truck when the gauge gets low.  If you want to know mileage drive the truck on the highway and do not let it shift into 6th.. the rpm will be similar to what 6th gear becomes after the gear change.  

Posted

i cannot see spending that kind of money unless you are doing the lift and bigger tires thing.  i think it will help some but you aren’t going to go screaming up a steep hill with your travel trailer just by regearing.  

Posted

You actually have to do it to be able to understand. it's quite noticeable and well worth the effort as every little bit helps. The idea is it helps you not go "screaming up hills" as you don't have to downshift into second for every incline.

 

And yes this is coming from someone that actually re-gears their stuff and doesn't just theorize on the internet.  This isn't my first re-gear either... my 05 1500hd was 3.73 and I went to 4.10 with it.. Blazer was 3.08 and went 4.56... Caprice was 3.08 and went to 3.42 etc etc.  

 

Even GM has figured the mechanical advantage part out on their own hence why a 3.73 truck is rated to pulled over 3000 lbs less than one equipped with 4.10's.

 

If I were the OP I would do 4.88. As I previously stated since my rear gear set now howls after bozo repairs I might just buy some 4.88's and do it myself this time as I never drive the truck anyway so time is not of the essence.  

 

For fun in my particular application my rpm would increase by 150 to 2300 at 70 mph with 4.88 as opposed to 2150 now with 4.56.  And yeah.... that's still 300 rpm less at 70 mph than my old LQ4 4l80e 4.10 geared truck turns with it's factory 245/75/16's.  Even at a 5.13 gear I would still be 200 rpm less rpm than that truck at 70 mph.  

Posted

My 07 6.0L with the 6speed and 4.10 rear gears  towed my 6000lb TT with ease. That motor loves to rev to 3000-4000 in order to get max torque. In 4th gear this rev range resulted in a speed of 55-60 - I felt nothing wrong with that. The only way I would do this kind of change is if I went to larger wheels and tires that effectively reduce the rear end ratio.  

Posted

Heres a pic of my setup. My route usually consists of 7% grade twice. Rt 17w in ny, wurtsboro mountain . 1 stretch is about a mile and a half the other is around 2 miles. Looking for a diesel, but not having any luck with in my interests.8823fa8bcc1063a9859cb73f18cc5ca7.jpg

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Posted
Then just hold out for your Duramax... you won't be happy with this no matter what as it's not what you want anyway.
True, just sux. I keep upgrading trucks cause my lifestyle change lol. Now looking for a 3500 high country diesel. And keep same payments and time frame left lol

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Posted
Heres a pic of my setup. My route usually consists of 7% grade twice. Rt 17w in ny, wurtsboro mountain . 1 stretch is about a mile and a half the other is around 2 miles. Looking for a diesel, but not having any luck with in my interests.8823fa8bcc1063a9859cb73f18cc5ca7.jpg

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk



What kind of front bike rack do you have? What did you have to put on for mounting, a front hitch?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

i have done a few gear swaps myself.  i went from a 3.23 to a 3.90 axle in a four speed 65 GTO ... that put a smile on my face!!!!

 

but here, sinking that kind of money into two axles on a nearly-new truck doesn’t make sense to me.  yeah, maybe you will be happy, or maybe you will be out a bunch of cash and still want a diesel.  the problem is that you have to spend the money to find out.

 

if you want a real reason to regear, beat that sumbitch until you break a rear, like i did doing 6k clutch drops with my 3.23’s ... that’s how i wound up with 3.90’s!!!

Posted

What kind of front bike rack do you have? What did you have to put on for mounting, a front hitch?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Got it off of etrailer.com. simple bolt in, just loosen recovery hook bolt

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Posted
i have done a few gear swaps myself.  i went from a 3.23 to a 3.90 axle in a four speed 65 GTO ... that put a smile on my face!!!!
 
but here, sinking that kind of money into two axles on a nearly-new truck doesn’t make sense to me.  yeah, maybe you will be happy, or maybe you will be out a bunch of cash and still want a diesel.  the problem is that you have to spend the money to find out.
 
if you want a real reason to regear, beat that sumbitch until you break a rear, like i did doing 6k clutch drops with my 3.23’s ... that’s how i wound up with 3.90’s!!!
Had a 2000 ss used to dump the clutch at 5k with et streets on stock rear. She took a beating and never failed. Eventually went to 4:11 but sold her right after that.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Well one of our most reliable vehicles was sold yesterday. The first and only I gave for free to a grandkid. If they got skin in the game they take care of it. My wife bought new. Five years later my daughter got it to use. We got it back and gave it to our grandson after graduation. He did zero maintenance just oil changes. When the AC quit he drove his mother’s car rather than get it fixed. Instead he just bought a beater and sold the Elantra. 
    • I usually do as well or better than the sticker for mileage. Usually better going west than east. North then South. Wind makes a difference. I’m not usually a conspiracy theorist. But it did dawn on me I’m going by the vehicle calculation. Now that would be interesting.
    • https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/news/fuel-economy-stickers-don-t-tell-the-whole-story-aaa-data-reveals-why/ar-AA26ocHk?ocid=winp2fptaskbarhover&cvid=6a4122ea3dae47e5b8dfbed5d4fd3d55&cvpid=648f6b4fc2fa4eddb4c12893aeb957ed&ei=59
    • What’s missing in all this is patience and investment in the future. Buy a 170K starter home. Ten years later sell it invest in a more expensive home. Eventually you’ll have a 600K home and pay starter home payments. Buy a starter car. Maintain it well. Save the payments after it’s payed for then buy an expensive car if you desire. Buy a tumbler make your own coffee, pack your lunch. Cook your own dinner. Most importantly take care of your car.
    • People mislead themselves. Statistics are highly useful indicators.   Here's the tie-in to this thread. If an oil sample tests shows a wear indicator of 7 using cheaper ACDelco oil, and a wear indicator of 2 (lower = less wear) using a particular brand of Mobil oil, and wear has a linear relationship with engine lifespan, anyone could assume that Mobil is reducing wear by more than 50% (let's just say a 200% reduction for you red state people trying hard to do math) which leads to increasing engine life by 2x. Perhaps, in a vacuum, by itself, when dreamed by AI.   Yeah?! That's what the statistic is saying, isn't it?   No, it isn't. It didn't come out and say engine life is doubled. That's a very bad assumption, and a case of severe myopia by assuming something potentially untrue about the only data point in focus.   Average cost of a new car is 50k. You bet it is.   The median cost of a new car is more like 35k. Expensive cars are skewing the perception that "average" now means a $50k price of entry for a very average automobile. And that's not true. People who don't understand statistics twist the living heck out of them to mean all sorts of things they don't actually mean.   "Average" new car payment is $1000/month. Yep, it is. And in that number are all the $35k new car buyers who bring significant equity, and the $25k new car buyers who finance the car for a month just to get a rebate, and then pay it off. Know what isn't in that number? All the payments made by people who don't finance a car.   Picking one's own data point (don't have a car payment, never paid $50k for a new vehicle, my house cost $170k, I afforded a middle class lifestyle on $4.50/hr) is just a data point. Just like earning $25/hr in an area where the median home price is almost $1 Million is a data point. In fact, it's a lot of data points given that 80% of the US population lives in/around major cities. They're not idiots; the vast majority of them do it to make a living because that's where the big money is.   The highs have become higher, lows have become lower, and how your personal mileage varies is not truth for an entire country. At the same time you can't NOT acknowledge the data. While it doesn't paint YOUR personal picture, it certainly tints the reality that you also live in, as does your single data point.    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...