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I have 2016 LTZ Suburban with magride, I want to upgrade it because there are three things which I don't like:
1) It has air shocks suspension which is not good for long life. The balloons is starting to leak air on 40 K miles and then it break the compressor.
2) Other thing is that this shock has magfuel, but it is also not good for long life. It is starting to leak magfuel on 70-80k miles.
3) And the price is too high for this short service life.
I want to upgrade them for a longer service life with the same or better ride characteristics.
And my question is what do you recommend as a replacement OEM MRC?
We are considering a suburban for our growing family (twins on the way!). I love the body style of these, and I found a 2003 in great shape, interior is flawless, reasonably priced at $7,800. Individual seller, so I plan to negotiate.
Here's what I know:
2003 Chevrolet Suburban 2500 LT
6.0L + 4L80e
No rust (huge find in the rust belt)
I'm hung up on the fact it is 2WD. We are in southern Ohio and get a decent amount of snow and slushy rain each year. I can't find any info about the rear end or differential. Is it limited slip? Open? I am leaning towards making a move, but I also want to get some expert opinions on the forum before I do so.
Thanks for your help.
I purchased a brand new Suburban in 2015 from Sawgrass Chevrolet in November 2015. Over the last 6 months my husband and I noticed the paint on the hood of the vehicle is faded and has noticiable swirls. I had it evaluated by a auto body shop and they confirmed the paint is defective and there is no clear coat. I've also been told by the dealership that this is a very common issue they have seen on the hood/ over the engine. Yet, there is nothing they can do, I must contact GM. How is it possible that this is a know issue and there is no resolution. My car is just over four years old! My 10 year old Ford Expedition's paint looked close to brand new compared to this!!!
Does anyone have any advice or recommendations? CLASS Action lawsuit?????
By Steve Grundy
I need help. I have brought this in for service several times and they can't find the problem.
I'm now convinced the problem is the factory alarm system that came with my 2010 Suburban. If I park it and push once on the fob to only lock the doors, everything is fine. But if I push twice to lock the doors and activate the alarm, then when I come back a couple days later, the battery will be completely dead. When I charge the battery, almost immediately after connecting the charger, the alarm will go off, honking the horn, blinking the lights, etc. BTW, it does not drain from the alarm running too long without my knowledge. The alarm almost NEVER goes off except in this situation when I connect the charger. For a number of reasons I am positive that the alarm is not going off without my knowledge and running for so long it drains the battery. It is draining the battery without making a sound.
What can I do? I've seen instructions on how to remove the door panel and cut the alarm wires, but before I take that drastic action, is there anything else to try? Is there a way to adjust the alarm to maybe avoid the drain. Is there another way to disable it that is easier and/or less destructive than cutting the wires?
Thanks for your help!
Reaching out to see if anyone else has experienced this. I have a 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 All Terrain with the 5.3. I’m having problems with starting this thing from time to time. It will run fine for a few days and fire right up every time I get in it. However some days on a cold start or after driving awhile and stopping, when I get in to start it up I got all dash lights are working, except I notice my MPG history is erased (which tells me we’re in trouble) then I get messages on the dash that reads, service trailer brake system, service stabilitrac, power steering reduced. Then the check engine light will appear. When I try to crank everything goes black and I’m not hearing clicks from the engine. After I let it set for about 5 minutes it will fire right up no hesitation. I run the codes on it and there’s is a laundry list of codes, which the GMC dealership is saying they’re all low voltage codes...so we swap the battery truck, it runs fine for about a week and a half and then starts doing the same thing. Alternator is ok because I can see it recharging the amps on the truck....any ideas as to why might cause all this? I’m desparate!!!
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