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Need help after cam swap


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Posted

Ok, so I tried to crank it and no bueno...but I had it too retarded (off the chart). So, I advanced it with the computer bypass unplugged and got it set to 14° advance. Waited until warmed up and brought back down to 4° BTDC.  So, how much advance does the computer automatically put when I hook it back up...22°, 24° or 26° in addition to the initial timing? 
I’m trying to figure it out because I don’t have a dial back timing light just a regular inductive light. 

Posted

Ok, I have gotten it to run ?. Put it all back together and fired it up. I had to move the distributor counterclockwise a bit because it was too retarded to stay running.
But I think I have some valve issues. I took of the factory rocker arms to swap to roller rockers. Well the factory rocker arms are non adjustable, just put the bolt through the rocker arm and tighten down to torque spec. 
Well since I have done the swap I either have too much or not enough torqued down. I know I can’t torque them down like the factory or the valves will hang open. So right now, I took it down the road for a test drive and started hearing loose rocker arms again. These rocker arms are on a stud with a pivot ball and a nut, that’s it. So how do I tighten these down?

Posted

Post up a picture if you can. It's good that they are on a ball and stud as the TBI engines had a rocker arm with guides on the valve end. Prior year sbc rockers will fall off the valves without a guide.

Posted

I know my spark plug wires are way too long. That’s coming next...cut them to length, stripping and crimping. 

Posted

Looks nice and sounds right. The valves look to work as they have the guides to keep them in place. Should give you a nice seet of the pants feel.

Posted

Thanks. I am having some issues with the valves on the drivers side. The factory rocker arms are not roller. Just a straight up stamped steel rocker and they are non-adjustable. Just a bolt that runs straight through and torqued down to 30 ft lb. 

Well, the ones I have now (I guess you could say are adjustable), so I don’t know what the lash is supposed to be set. I do the up and down motion then a 1/4 turn after but it’s still off. Should I use a feeler gauge or just go back to stock rocker arms?

Posted
Thanks. I am having some issues with the valves on the drivers side. The factory rocker arms are not roller. Just a straight up stamped steel rocker and they are non-adjustable. Just a bolt that runs straight through and torqued down to 30 ft lb. 
Well, the ones I have now (I guess you could say are adjustable), so I don’t know what the lash is supposed to be set. I do the up and down motion then a 1/4 turn after but it’s still off. Should I use a feeler gauge or just go back to stock rocker arms?
Out of curiosity... are the valves the same for roller and non roller the same??
Are you using the old bolts or did you get new ones?? Any build I do I use ARP bolts.

The Blue Mule

Posted

The lifters have to be off the cam lobes,so rotate engine by hand,and one thing to keep in mind,count threads that are exposed above nut,they all should be pretty close

Posted
48 minutes ago, 454BBC said:

Thanks. I am having some issues with the valves on the drivers side. The factory rocker arms are not roller. Just a straight up stamped steel rocker and they are non-adjustable. Just a bolt that runs straight through and torqued down to 30 ft lb. 

Well, the ones I have now (I guess you could say are adjustable), so I don’t know what the lash is supposed to be set. I do the up and down motion then a 1/4 turn after but it’s still off. Should I use a feeler gauge or just go back to stock rocker arms?

Can also turn it down till it stops ticking while running and backbit off a flat. Works well for getting the adjustment right.

Posted

Ok, back at square one. Truck will not hit a lick now. It’s getting gas and fire but nothing. Only thing it does now is cough back through the TBI. 
I even put the factory rocker arms back on instead of the roller tip and still nothing. Only thing I haven’t done is put the factory pushrods, rotators and springs back in. It’s still got the Comp Cam 911 springs and Comp Cams rotator eliminators. I’ve redone my timing with the bypass unplugged...nothing. Every now and then you’ll hear the exhaust putt putt then dies. 
Had a huge backfire yesterday come back through the TBI...sounded like a cannon. Now it just coughs and that’s it. Idk...scratching my head on this one. 

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