Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
Just saw this on Instagram.  BDS announced a new 2,5” coilover lift for the Trailboss.  I was pretty excited until I saw the price.[emoji85]
 
http://bds-suspension.com/product?kid=754F
 
tboughts?  Seems to me it’s same price if you bought the 4” lift and bought coil overs separately. This doesn’t makes sense to me, way overpriced.

Expensive, yes! But to be fair, coilovers by themselves will run you $2k so that alone is more than half the cost. And typically the components between different heights (2” vs 4” vs 6” etc) are fairly similar just slightly different lengths on some components. So it makes sense that cost is similar to other kits they offer.

BDS also makes great kits with an awesome warranty! I know that doesn’t help swallow the cost of the kit haha but at least you know you’re getting quality components. But yeah cost isn’t proportional to lift height
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Here is another quality option, better shocks, covers the front - then you have to add a rear set up like BDS - price shown is with 2.5" adjustable kings 

 

Baja Link:  https://www.bajakits.com/i-31570226-19-silverado-sierra-1500-4wd-upper-arm.html?ref=category:1459192

 

 
  • 19+ Silverado/Sierra 1500 4WD Upper Arm - Image 1
  •  
  • 19+ Silverado/Sierra 1500 4WD Upper Arm - Image 2
  •  
  • 19+ Silverado/Sierra 1500 4WD Upper Arm - Image 3
  •  
  • 19+ Silverado/Sierra 1500 4WD Upper Arm - Image 4
  •  
  • 19+ Silverado/Sierra 1500 4WD Upper Arm - Image 5
  •  
  • 19+ Silverado/Sierra 1500 4WD Upper Arm - Image 6
  •  
  • 19+ Silverado/Sierra 1500 4WD Upper Arm - Image 7
  •  
  •  
  •  
  • 19+ Silverado/Sierra 1500 4WD Upper Arm - Image 9
  •  
  •  
  •  
  •  
  •  
  •  
  •  
  •  

19+ SILVERADO/SIERRA 1500 4WD UPPER ARM

SKU:C10U19
Shocks Sold Separately
Shipping: Please contact us directly for International, Hawaii and Alaska shipping
FREE SHIPPING!
Pricing: $2726.80

OPTIONS AVAILABLE

Select Shock Option
OEM King 2.5 Coilovers+$1,519.05
OEM King 2.5 With Compression Adjusters+$1,827.80
OEM King 3.0 Coilovers+$3,324.05
Edited by Supercup
Posted
On 1/21/2020 at 8:44 PM, Trailboss75 said:

Just saw this on Instagram.  BDS announced a new 2,5” coilover lift for the Trailboss.  I was pretty excited until I saw the price.?

 

http://bds-suspension.com/product?kid=754F

 

tboughts?  Seems to me it’s same price if you bought the 4” lift and bought coil overs separately. This doesn’t makes sense to me, way overpriced.

The 4” lift and the coil over lift have the same components, except the non coil over lift comes with 4” spacers for the top of the stock struts. So the pricing is 100% in line. I had this kit installed a week ago with the dual speed compression adjusters and couldn’t be happier. I ran 2.5” kings on my 4Runner and they leaked all the time. I rebuilt them 4 times and when I got rid of it, one was leaking again. 
 

also, kings should really only be lifted 2.5” , which puts you .5” over stock height on a trail boss / at4. Once you add rears to that king kit, you’re at about 4k as well. Mind you, those rear shocks from king are much nicer than the standard fox shocks on the rear of the bds kit. If/when fox releases some better rear shocks, I’ll most likely upgrade mine.

Posted
5 hours ago, anferknee said:

The 4” lift and the coil over lift have the same components, except the non coil over lift comes with 4” spacers for the top of the stock struts. So the pricing is 100% in line. I had this kit installed a week ago with the dual speed compression adjusters and couldn’t be happier. I ran 2.5” kings on my 4Runner and they leaked all the time. I rebuilt them 4 times and when I got rid of it, one was leaking again. 
 

also, kings should really only be lifted 2.5” , which puts you .5” over stock height on a trail boss / at4. Once you add rears to that king kit, you’re at about 4k as well. Mind you, those rear shocks from king are much nicer than the standard fox shocks on the rear of the bds kit. If/when fox releases some better rear shocks, I’ll most likely upgrade mine.

is your truck and AT4 or Trail Boss-  if so how does the ride compare?  AT4 street ride is really good - want better shocks, but not at the expense of the ride quality 

Posted
7 minutes ago, Supercup said:

is your truck and AT4 or Trail Boss-  if so how does the ride compare?  AT4 street ride is really good - want better shocks, but not at the expense of the ride quality 

At4. I hated the stock ride. Way too mushy. I’d hit a speed bump or back out of a drive way and bounce all over the place. The new coilovers just soak it all up. Obviously going from a p-metric 31.5” street tire to a 35” f rated lt tire, you feel more bumps in the road, but the trade off is worth it to me. 

  • Like 1
Posted
10 hours ago, justin saleeby said:

ive got the icon coilover 2.5 and they are worth every penny, You wont regret losing the ranchos

I did the icons too, mines set at 3 inch but I used rc forged control arms since I didnt think I needed 900.00 control arms to drive to work..lol.. It handles really good but is firm.  I'm afraid to turn it to 3.5, with adding preload would it get too harsh I'm not sure. To me this is prob the best bang for the buck.  I do have kings on my 2500hd for years and they are flawless..

Posted
On 1/26/2020 at 10:45 AM, justin saleeby said:

ive got the icon coilover 2.5 and they are worth every penny, You wont regret losing the ranchos

Did you go with the Stage 1 or Stage 2. And if Stage 2, did you go with tubular or billet aluminum upper control arms. Debating on going with Icon, but not sure if I need the upper control arms or not...I have a Trail Boss.

Thanks

  • Like 1
Posted

Do you NEED them, no. Do you WANT them. yes :)

 

Their control arms typically offer more travel when combined with their coilovers and also provide better angles after being lifted. However, some lifts are designed around the factory UCA so they aren't required.

 

I've had their billet UCA's on two different trucks now. Did I notice a difference? No, not really. I had good alignments with the factory arms but damn do the billet UCA's look good! The billet arms also offer a LOT more adjustability and fine tuning.

 

I should add that my experience only comes from using the truck as a daily driver and not off road where I imagine UCA's play more of a role. 

 

Would I buy them again, YES. without a doubt. 

  • Like 2
Posted
7 hours ago, Mjharden said:

Did you go with the Stage 1 or Stage 2. And if Stage 2, did you go with tubular or billet aluminum upper control arms. Debating on going with Icon, but not sure if I need the upper control arms or not...I have a Trail Boss.

Thanks

2.5 cdc with tubular

  • Like 1
Posted
21 hours ago, FirstAscent said:

Do you NEED them, no. Do you WANT them. yes :)

 

Their control arms typically offer more travel when combined with their coilovers and also provide better angles after being lifted. However, some lifts are designed around the factory UCA so they aren't required.

 

I've had their billet UCA's on two different trucks now. Did I notice a difference? No, not really. I had good alignments with the factory arms but damn do the billet UCA's look good! The billet arms also offer a LOT more adjustability and fine tuning.

 

I should add that my experience only comes from using the truck as a daily driver and not off road where I imagine UCA's play more of a role. 

 

Would I buy them again, YES. without a doubt. 

Jaimie, thanks for your response. I guess ultimately what I'm wondering is whether I "need" them if I'm simply leveling out the front with the rear. I believe if I remember my measurements correctly, my front is about 1.5" higher than the rear on my Trail Boss.

 

I understand with some of these "leveling/lift" kits, that folks are also adding taller rear blocks and cranking their coilovers to the maximum 2.5-3 inches. In that case, I could see needing new upper control arms among other things I'm sure, which is why the BDS kit has so many components.

 

If I'm simply leveling out the front 1.5 inches, are they required (will my truck align just fine)?

 

 

Posted
3 hours ago, Mjharden said:

Jaimie, thanks for your response. I guess ultimately what I'm wondering is whether I "need" them if I'm simply leveling out the front with the rear. I believe if I remember my measurements correctly, my front is about 1.5" higher than the rear on my Trail Boss.

 

I understand with some of these "leveling/lift" kits, that folks are also adding taller rear blocks and cranking their coilovers to the maximum 2.5-3 inches. In that case, I could see needing new upper control arms among other things I'm sure, which is why the BDS kit has so many components.

 

If I'm simply leveling out the front 1.5 inches, are they required (will my truck align just fine)?

 

 

Even if just leveling your TB upper arms are recommended.  If you just want to level the Ready Lift SST kit is the best bang for the buck - $510 plus tax, free shipping from Tire Rack for the AT4/TB.  If you want to add upgraded shocks down the road you could, but it would not be as "complete" a designed system as BDS is offering - so you just have to decide how many $ you want to spend the pick your best option. 

 

Ready Lift Leveling Kit Link:  https://www.readylift.com/at4-trail-boss-plus-2-0-sst-lift-kit-gm-1500-at4-trail-boss-4wd-2019.html

 

Watch this video from Ready Lift as to why you need to add upper control arms - you are correcting geometry the stock upper arm can't handle.

Video:  

 

 

  • Like 1
  • 6 months later...
Posted

Did the Ready Lift 2" SST level kit on my 2019 AT4 Carbon Pro - lost use of "auto 4WD" as RL does not recommend use.  I just traded it for a 2020 AT4 Carbon Pro to get trailer tow mirros and new trailer tow camera tech - as I tow fairly often.  

 

Going with BDS 2.5" kit with Fox 2.5 DSC coilovers - figured might as well do it right this time! 

 

Looking forward to the upgrade - hope to have it install in a few weeks! 

 

link:  https://bds-suspension.com/kit-customizer?kid=754F

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,759
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DM22
    Newest Member
    DM22
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,964 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • So I'm in the middle of a DOD AFM delete on my 6.2 L86 Sierra. I had a pick holding the tensioner but after I got the Cam phaser gear off I was cleaning off all the rtv and apparently I didn't have the pick seated far enough in. I bumped it and the tensioner sprang forward.  I think everything is good but I want a second opinion. The top of the tensioner is just a looped piece of plastic that rides in that channel right? There is no spring or anything is there? I got the gear and chain back on and it seems tight and everything looks right. I'm hoping nothing fell out.
    • My 2015 1500 LTZ Silverado suddenly won't go into 4 x 4 low. It will go into 4 x 4 high.
    • Yep, just a quick reference point.    My main point being I’d do a thousand other things before I’d pay 10k for a transmission.    Speaking in ignorance cause I don’t look at these trucks, what is it worth? 20k?
    • I think users are going to want to pick their monitored parameters, which parameters they want to see first.    It should probably start with baseline at a minimum and adjust to learned, but be able to overlay baseline for comparison.   A simple severity level would be able to determine what type of alerting is appropriate or user selectable.    Why not use the OBD port though?   I think a phone connection would be a good idea, push notifications type deal.   Number 1 issue is having data is useless if you don’t know what the data should be under normal conditions. 
    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...