Jump to content

L83 All motor build


Kuuups

Recommended Posts

Posted

Looking for guidance for my 2018 Silverado with the L83 motor. I don’t wanna go forced induction so what can I do besides a cam and ported heads to get the most horsepower out of my engine. And what other supporting mods like intake and fuel injectors if I would need. 

  • Replies 30
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted
7 hours ago, Kuuups said:

Looking for guidance for my 2018 Silverado with the L83 motor. I don’t wanna go forced induction so what can I do besides a cam and ported heads to get the most horsepower out of my engine. And what other supporting mods like intake and fuel injectors if I would need. 

I wouldn’t go cam

 

Cam is engine out

 

and if you’re doing cam and forced induction, you’re going to make enough power to need lt4 fueling and a built shortblock

 

in which case you will have built your entire motor, and you probably would have been better off just buying a 416 long block

 

edit:oh shoot you said you don’t want to go supercharger!

 

are you sure? A built NA motor without increasing displacement will shift the power band to the top end. That’s great on a sports car, but less than desirable on a truck.

 

there’s a reason we all go supercharger

 

 

Posted

search forum for slow1500, he did all the turbo stuff.

 

best cam is BTR truck torque cam either stage 1 or 2,  6.2 intake manifold, 70 size turbo.  you'll have to gap the piston rings if your pushing over 8 psi.   the LSA SC seems like a lot of monkey motion for boost, but it has a great torque curve.

 

Posted

You can for sure.  Myself, I grabbed an L86 that tried to eat itself and am stroking it to a 6.6 using the L8T's pistons and crankshaft.  The only waiting is for GM to release the crank for sale... and it's cheap too which is nice for a forged piece.  Cam, intake, headers, compression increase and 401 cubes should do quite nicely.  Staying at 325 cubes you are better off with boost.

Posted

Pick a cam, then pick the correct stall converter for that camshaft.

 

Add a E85 sensor. Do your head work, headers, intake upgrades and see where you stand. It's possible you'll need LT4 injectors for the extra fuel requirements but you'll just have to see. Regular pump gas would let you take the stock injectors farther than E85 would.

Posted

2ed49648ccd01afb9340d94538bdce4d.jpg
You sure you don’t wanna go supercharged 480hp in one mod lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I wouldn't waste my time with a 5.3. I'm in the same boat as you and looking for a L86 now.

 

Look around you can get an L86 for around 2500 now on offer up and if you look enough in the right places.

Swap in a L86 with cam (you'll then already have the coveted l86 intake) and sell your L83 for 1000-1500

 

Whole lot of gain going that route for little money. 

Posted
On 2/27/2020 at 1:20 PM, Jaychevy81 said:

2ed49648ccd01afb9340d94538bdce4d.jpg
You sure you don’t wanna go supercharged 480hp in one mod lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Honestly I just want to see how much I can make before even thinking of forced induction. 

Posted

wonder if the longer connecting rod from the new 6.6L motor would drop into the 6.2L motor??  I like the increase in crank dwell time.. ???

 

any chance  GM offers the 6.6L in a crate short block?

Posted

Connecting rods are not longer in the 6.6... that's completely backwards.  If they went that route the rods would be shorter as the throw of the crank is longer.  Connecting rods are identical length to any other LT.

Posted

the new motor has a 6mm longer powdered forged con rod

 

you dont understand the idea of increased rod length, wich reduces piston speed and increased crank dwell at tdc and btdc

6.6L is a "detuned" 400hp/400ftlbs

Posted
6 minutes ago, flyingfool said:

the new motor has a 6mm longer powdered forged con rod

 

you dont understand the idea of increased rod length, wich reduces piston speed and increased crank dwell at tdc and btdc

 

 

1C1189FF-5037-420D-96BE-E540E280A091.gif

Posted
1 hour ago, flyingfool said:

the new motor has a 6mm longer powdered forged con rod

 

you dont understand the idea of increased rod length, wich reduces piston speed and increased crank dwell at tdc and btdc

6.6L is a "detuned" 400hp/400ftlbs

Considering I have connecting rod in my possession for a 6.6 that I ordered from the dealer yes I do know what I am talking about thanks.  Do you?  No.. you don't.  rps20200224_113358.thumb.jpg.756655a942f912f6fe7af12cbd692226.jpgrps20200224_113323.thumb.jpg.e9e9f3d83fa93de54821e02ecb64816a.jpg

 

You can manipulate rod length but in this case its piston pin height.  Center to center on that rod and an LQ4 rod are identical.  Gm is cheap and does things as cost effective as possible... it's a stroked 6.2 and that's all there is too it.  401 hp and 464 lb ft with a timing curve allowing use of 87 fuel means severely detuned...

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,980
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Fishboat
    Newest Member
    Fishboat
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 521 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Question @diyer2 on this line if you please. Are you saying the shudder is the system turning on and off at the frequency of the shudder? Guess I'm asking if you are saying you have seen it do this with the bi-direction scan tool in graph mode? If so have you been able to discern the 'trigger'. Something is telling to cycle rapidly.    My truck just started doing this recently. 197K on the clock. My response has been M5 anything under 55 mph. I treat it like a lugging stick shift. Gear down and let it spin a bit. Engauge M5, then tow mode and then M6 lets the trans stay in 5th but the AFM is active. Smooth like Skippy.    My thought was that as a machine ages the friction gets lower and as the system is load based, the lower friction would allow it to turn on at ever lower rpm until it reaches the lugging point. And yes I am ignorant of any minimum rpm requirement for the system. If you know that would be useful information.    As you know I run a Scan-Gauge II which allows me to watch the On/Off of the signal to the VLOM. While in the shudder mode I'm not seeing is cycle at that frequency or at all for that matter outside the triggers @newdude posted a few years back. Now is it possible that the refresh rate isn't fast enough to catch it? Maybe. It is why I asked my first question about graphing and trigging parameter.     As we have observed from members here the failure point is all over the map miles wise as you note yourself in your opening post. That by itself begs a few questions like fellows that comment on these lifters failing even after the system has been disabled. Long after. 😬   https://www.enginelabs.com/news/tech-tips-replacing-ls-active-fuel-management-lifters-with-melling/   The Gen5 lifters operate the same as the LS versions. In fact they are the same lifter.    https://www.enginelabs.com/tech-stories/sorting-out-gen-v-lt-lifter-failure-with-a-simple-valvetrain-fix/        
    • UPDATE 2: Steering wheel control backlights and control of the cluster can supposedly be achieved by adding a wire to pin 20 of the cluster and tapping it to pin 2 of the main clock spring harness. I'm going to give it a shot - will update  
    • GM Global A pickups 2019-2022 can do OTA programming for the radio.  GM VIP (GM Global B) can do OTAs for almost every module on board.  So a 2022.5 and newer pickup can do OTAs for recalls like the 2.7 fuel flow recall.  EVs get OTAs that improve one pedal driving, radio issues, HVAC issues, updated battery management software, etc.     So age of the vehicle/what GM electrical platform its on will alter what amount of updates can be pushed on OTAs.  
    • Thank You.   So far my new ride is making me look like a genius for going with the 3.0L, as my first fuel refill occurred over three weeks from when I took delivery.  This engine combination is very amazing.  So far no issues and had not done a regen yet.
    • I am curious as to how much fluid you put back in the transmission ( assuming you had replaced the filter to compare to my findings ) and then went through the process of warming up the trans before pulling the check plug to drain out the excess and if you measured how much came back out.    I just found it surprising that some claimed a certain amount less fluid being put in and then draining some back out. The attitude of the truck as per if the surface is level and how the trucks stance is would make quite a difference since the check plug is right at the front of the transmission. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...