Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
4 hours ago, TheeSpaniard3500hd said:

Has anyone tried to mount the camera with adhesive tape instead of putting holes in the back of your trailer?  Curious if it will hold with the rough ride of a travel trailer?  I’m going to install my camera this weekend. 

Yes, I installed mine with 3M automotive tape back in March with no issues so far. I also spun the camera around so the cable came straight out the bottom instead of looping over the top.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
3 hours ago, sweatandsteel said:

Yes, I installed mine with 3M automotive tape back in March with no issues so far. I also spun the camera around so the cable came straight out the bottom instead of looping over the top.


Thank you.  I ordered some 3m tape to try myself so your feedback makes me feel me feel better about the use.  I was thinking about a smaller diameter self tapping screw in addition to the tape but really would like to avoid holes in the back trailer wall. I plan to run my cables underneath too.  

Posted

Yeah, there was no way I was going to drill a hole in the wall of my new travel trailer! Seems to work great, knock on wood....

Posted

Mine is held on the rear glass window with 3M tape.  I'm pretty sure it won't fall off and removing it would be a chore if I ever decided to do sol

  • 2 years later...
Posted
On 3/10/2020 at 5:09 AM, MTU Alum said:

If the truck is calibrating, then the dimensions should be fine.  I would first look at the angle of your camera, it needs to be at 35 degrees (0 deg is straight down).  For calibration, you need to drive in straight line under 30 mph.  I like to exit the trailer app and select the transparent view in camera app.  There will be a status bar at the bottom that turns yellow as it calibrates.  My understanding it is will only calibrate during daytime.  I have also seen issues with spare tire and shadows that the system does not like during calibration.  If you are still having problems, post a picture of rear camera view and camera mounting on trailer.

 

#iworkforGM 

I get the “Needs to be Calibrated” screen. Drove about 20 miles, but never got the Transparent Trailer view, just the split 3 camera view and the blind spot warning when I turn on the blinker. Any ideas how to get the Calibrating to finish properly? 2023 Denali 1500 with OEM GM trailer camera.

Attached a few photos.

 

PXL_20230621_174442098.jpg

PXL_20230621_194009546.jpg

PXL_20230621_194025196.jpg

Posted
14 minutes ago, MTU Alum said:

My suggestion would be to remove the spare tire and try to calibrate.  I assume you are driving under 30 mph correct?

 

 

Yes, I drove 25 mph but never saw a progress bar under Invisible Trailer view in Camera APP. I’ll remove the spare tire and see if that helps. If it works, can I return the spare, or should I use the time to relocate it somewhere else?

Posted

You can reinstall after calibration.  If you still have problems, you may want to change one dimension by an inch.  It sometimes doesn't like shadows, so may need to drive in opposite direction if you see a large shadow.  I hope this helps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I agree.   However, the owner's manual, suggests that a drop over full is just as bad as a drop under. (Read black and white letters only, insert no common sense.)
    • That P0700 and loss of power suggests something significant is amiss to me.   More/other codes may suggest otherwise; I would investigate those prior to spending the money to change fluid on a transmission with a bad torque converter.    The relatively sudden escalation of symptoms to me suggests that something began failing (initial shuddering experienced) and rapidly deteriorated (slipping/loss of power). Fluid condition alone wouldn't cause the sudden escalation of problems - though it might have been the cause of the deterioration up to the point of failure.
    • Stabilitrack operation is in a sense a separate/independent operation from the operation of 'traction control'. Stabilitrack is used to keep the vehicle traveling in the DIRECTION intended, it can brake independent wheels and or adjust throttle to influence the direction the vehicle is moving.   This can be illustrated by a 'fish-tailing' example. At high speeds, if the stabilitrack detects excessive yaw (the vehicle spinning like a top, it has a sensor for this), based on inputs from steering angle it determines that the vehicle is spinning out of control, and begins working to control that unintended spin. By reducing throttle input or braking specific wheels to control or prevent the spin.   The traction control works similarly using the ABS system to slow spinning wheels and thus transfer power to 'other' wheels. The goal being to achieve wheel speeds that are all in agreement with each other, the truck then assumes that since all the wheels speeds are the same no spinning is occurring. For example, launching up a wet boat ramp, there is no excessive yaw present, traction control alone can manage the wheel spin by braking spinning wheels and cutting throttle.   Stabilitrack and traction control from a hardware and software standpoint are basically one in the same, I don't remember specifically in 2004, but you couldn't get a truck with one and not the other. The switch on the dash, could turn off the traction control, but not necessarily the stabilitrack.    A confusing comment about stabilitrack vs. traction control, the same components serve both operations, but marketing could advertise them as two separate features.    The AWD system is another separate system entirely, in addition to the other two, it uses the same wheel speed inputs but can also vary the transfer case clutch application to direct some power to the front axle, working in conjunction with the traction control to bring wheel speeds together.   The power split will never be greater than 50:50, the same as 4-high. It will never direct MORE power to the front axle than the rear.
    • Not based on the new photos I'm seeing.  Car and Driver posted additional photos that shows an auto stop start button left of the steering wheel.      
    • Car and Driver is reporting wireless CarPlay WILL remain, and they posted several additional photos, including a left knee shot, but the only hard buttons there are e-brake, auto start stop, tailgate and cargo light.  Also definitely looks like High Country and ZR2 get micro fiber on the center of the console lid and the ZR2 possibly also on the seats.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...