Active Lifter (Cyl #4) stuck in block

[tslavonik]

Got a 2008 1500 (J code) with 5.3 and AFM.  At 315K miles got a misfire code with engine light blinking. Tried the Range AFM Cancel unit (plugs into ECM port) and it seemed to work for a day or so then back to rough idle and jerky tranny shifts. Suspected bad lifter so with time on my hands (covid19 stay at home) decided to pull the heads.  Found the #4 exhaust and intake valves (spark plug too) covered in sludge), which must be the dead cylinder. Then, after pulling the lifter guide assy out, the left side active lifter remained in the block and appears to be compressed and/or rotating as well. All of the other ones I pulled stayed in the guide assy and seem to snap in tight. Tried using some PB Blaster and long needle nose but no luck getting it out. Thinking about buying a lifter extractor tool.  Here's my question: At 315K miles my gut tells me that even if I can get the lifter out the cam lobe may be out by over 0.002?  So should I take a chance and hope it's not?  Before this I planned on ordering either the delete lifter kit w/gaskets or the AFM lifter kit with gaskets (heard compelling arguments for both). At $600.00 if the cam is shot I may find myself up the creek, plus I'll also be taking the heads in for valve reseating & milling which will add about $350.00 more to the deal. So in the end I may be better off with a long block and cut my losses?  Truck is in real good shape otherwise. Any ideas or feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. 

[Colossus]

At this point and with that many miles, time for a new engine. 

[tslavonik]

Thanks, I appreciate your input! 

[swathdiver]

5 hours ago, tslavonik said:

Got a 2008 1500 (J code) with 5.3 and AFM.  At 315K miles got a misfire code with engine light blinking. Tried the Range AFM Cancel unit (plugs into ECM port) and it seemed to work for a day or so then back to rough idle and jerky tranny shifts. Suspected bad lifter so with time on my hands (covid19 stay at home) decided to pull the heads.  Found the #4 exhaust and intake valves (spark plug too) covered in sludge), which must be the dead cylinder. Then, after pulling the lifter guide assy out, the left side active lifter remained in the block and appears to be compressed and/or rotating as well. All of the other ones I pulled stayed in the guide assy and seem to snap in tight. Tried using some PB Blaster and long needle nose but no luck getting it out. Thinking about buying a lifter extractor tool.  Here's my question: At 315K miles my gut tells me that even if I can get the lifter out the cam lobe may be out by over 0.002?  So should I take a chance and hope it's not?  Before this I planned on ordering either the delete lifter kit w/gaskets or the AFM lifter kit with gaskets (heard compelling arguments for both). At $600.00 if the cam is shot I may find myself up the creek, plus I'll also be taking the heads in for valve reseating & milling which will add about $350.00 more to the deal. So in the end I may be better off with a long block and cut my losses?  Truck is in real good shape otherwise. Any ideas or feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. 

If you do a delete, you can run a GM camshaft to keep costs down, the L33 is a Gen III camshaft with the same single pattern grind as your existing AFM cam.  Replace the o-ring in the pick up tube and if you drop the oil pan, put the new relief valve shield in the pan or plug it off.  Get the new driver's side rocker cover which cuts oil consumption too if not done so already.  

[silveradosid]

i agree with Colossus , if the truck is in really good shape put a new heart in it

[tslavonik]

Thanks for commenting, I appreciate it. 

[tslavonik]

2 hours ago, swathdiver said:

If you do a delete, you can run a GM camshaft to keep costs down, the L33 is a Gen III camshaft with the same single pattern grind as your existing AFM cam.  Replace the o-ring in the pick up tube and if you drop the oil pan, put the new relief valve shield in the pan or plug it off.  Get the new driver's side rocker cover which cuts oil consumption too if not done so already.  

Thanks for that information; sounds like a good option to consider. I appreciate the detailed response. 

[bg1988]

On 4/8/2020 at 8:36 PM, tslavonik said:

Got a 2008 1500 (J code) with 5.3 and AFM.  At 315K miles got a misfire code with engine light blinking. Tried the Range AFM Cancel unit (plugs into ECM port) and it seemed to work for a day or so then back to rough idle and jerky tranny shifts. Suspected bad lifter so with time on my hands (covid19 stay at home) decided to pull the heads.  Found the #4 exhaust and intake valves (spark plug too) covered in sludge), which must be the dead cylinder. Then, after pulling the lifter guide assy out, the left side active lifter remained in the block and appears to be compressed and/or rotating as well. All of the other ones I pulled stayed in the guide assy and seem to snap in tight. Tried using some PB Blaster and long needle nose but no luck getting it out. Thinking about buying a lifter extractor tool.  Here's my question: At 315K miles my gut tells me that even if I can get the lifter out the cam lobe may be out by over 0.002?  So should I take a chance and hope it's not?  Before this I planned on ordering either the delete lifter kit w/gaskets or the AFM lifter kit with gaskets (heard compelling arguments for both). At $600.00 if the cam is shot I may find myself up the creek, plus I'll also be taking the heads in for valve reseating & milling which will add about $350.00 more to the deal. So in the end I may be better off with a long block and cut my losses?  Truck is in real good shape otherwise. Any ideas or feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. 

i would just fix what you got ,you would be buying someone else problems. plus buying a used engines is a gamble as a lot of sellers lie about the miles one it