Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I tore down the front suspension this weekend to install the Eibach Pro-Truck Lift and was unsuccessful.  The spring and shock went together fine and I was able to place the spring and shock into the upper shock mount, but the bottom of the shock where the two bolts mount to the lower control arm would not bolt up.  The angle of the mounting surface on the bottom shock mount was at a significantly different angle than the mounting face on the lower control arm and therefore the bolts would not line up and begin to thread.  No matter how I tried to compress the suspension or relax he suspension, the angle was much to different for the bolt to make it through both mounting surfaces and start threading into the clips.  I will be calling Eibach this morning to address the issue and see if I was doing something wrong on the install.

Edited by Gangly
Posted

I contacted Eibach and they said that the mounting surfaces should be flush.  Seeing how they definitely werent, they asked that I send them photos of the shocks with part numbers, etc. to see if there is anything suspect.  I hope to hear back from them shortly with an update and I'll forward the response to you all.

Posted

I think you have the top plate with the three studs off 180 degrees.  The lower plate with the two holes is on an angle. You can clap the lower plate in a vise and twist  plate in the rubber bushing. Or reorient the top plate so the angle of the lower plate is correct. 

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, Gangly said:

I contacted Eibach and they said that the mounting surfaces should be flush.  Seeing how they definitely werent, they asked that I send them photos of the shocks with part numbers, etc. to see if there is anything suspect.  I hope to hear back from them shortly with an update and I'll forward the response to you all.

Can you post a picture of the different angles, your shock may just need to be turned.  I've done this on the truck, with the upper bolted in just grab some channel locks and spin the shock 180*

  • Like 1
Posted

Make sure you ran the top nut of your strut assembly down far enough. There is A LOT of preload on these springs, to the extent that I don't do front struts at home anymore.

If you don't have that preload right, your strut will be too long.

Sent from my SM-J810F using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, pewterliftedz said:

Can you post a picture of the different angles, your shock may just need to be turned.  I've done this on the truck, with the upper bolted in just grab some channel locks and spin the shock 180*

this

Posted (edited)

Great suggestions guys, I'll address them below. 

 

-The shock does not need to be turned, the holes on the lower mount are oriented correctly, directly above the holes in the LCA. 

-I marked all parts of the assembly with a marker prior to installation so I know I am not off on its orientation.  After throwing in the towel, I reinstalled the factory suspension the same way and it buttoned up perfectly.

-You cannot install it 180 degrees off, the upper holes won't allow it and the bottom plate surface would be almost 90° perpendicular to the mounting surface of the LCA.  The bottom plate was probably between 10° and 15° off.  Just enough to keep the bolts from threading

-I uninstalled and reinstalled the spring on the shock twice to make sure the nut was threaded all the way down.  It was tightened and seated properly.  The shock isn't too long, that's not an issue and it fits nicely otherwise.

 

I've installed my fair share of shocks and I'm pretty familiar with the process, but this install has stumped me.  One suggestion mentioned above was rotating the base plate within the bushing.  I tried to do this but was unsuccessful.  However, I didn't use a table vice since I was scared to tear the bushing so I only applied what forces I could muster by attempting to hold the shock in one hand and twisting the base plate with a set of pliers in the other hand.  I didnt know you could do that to be honest since I've never had to in the past and was nervous about tearing the bushing.  I'll put it in a vice and try to twist it harder next time I can fool with it, but I'll be out of town working the next three days and most likely won't get back to it until Saturday.

 

I appreciate the time y'all took to reply with the great suggestions, most of which I have experienced in prior installs, and I hope y'all can throw some more great ones out there for anybody else reading this.  Thanks again, I'll keep the updates coming as well.

 

Edited by Gangly
Posted

Yeah I had a hard time getting the bottom LCA strut bolts in too, the drivers side was okay but the passenger was a pain. Those cheesy washer clips that GM uses to secure the strut bolts don’t help the process either. 

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm not the best at communicating things clearly so here is a CAD diagram that shows what angle I'm referring too.  The 8 degrees isnt accurate for my situation, its just an arbitrary angle I threw in there for yall's reference as to what angle I am referring to.   

Suspension Install Angle Error Model (1).jpg

Posted
57 minutes ago, Ryguy said:

Yeah I had a hard time getting the bottom LCA strut bolts in too, the drivers side was okay but the passenger was a pain. Those cheesy washer clips that GM uses to secure the strut bolts don’t help the process either. 

Glad to hear Im not the only one.  I've considered removing the clips and using a washer and nut combination, but I want to see what Eibach has to say first.

Posted
On 5/5/2020 at 10:09 AM, Gangly said:

Glad to hear Im not the only one.  I've considered removing the clips and using a washer and nut combination, but I want to see what Eibach has to say first.

Any update on this?

Posted (edited)

Those angles can be off quite a bit on some of the lifts me and a buddy have done.  Sometimes helps to take the nut/clip off to get it started, then pry it straight, or hold it with pliers as it begins to seat when you tighten it up. They will snug up and that part of the strut will seat flat again.  Some lifts require swapping from drivers side to pasenger side depending on the top spacer, and this can throw that bottom angle off the other way.  And you can turn the bottoms separate from the top 180, as the other guys mentioned. 

Edited by Gduck24
Posted

Eibach sent me a drawing for their shock and I will be comparing measurements this weekend to see if the shock is in accordance with their specifications.  Do y'all by chance know what flange nut size you used?

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
On 5/8/2020 at 12:48 PM, Gangly said:

Eibach sent me a drawing for their shock and I will be comparing measurements this weekend to see if the shock is in accordance with their specifications.  Do y'all by chance know what flange nut size you used?

Did you ever get this installed?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 528 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...