Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I got the RetraxPro ordered and have been reading the installation instructions.  Cover will be put on a 2020 Denali 1500 SB. 

 

The only question I have at this point regards the drain tubes.  There are some plastic plugs at the front of the bed but I am sure that they are going to be too high to work correctly.   Is that correct and if so is there anything that I need to be aware of before I start drilling holes?

Posted

While my install is on a 2020 2500HD, perhaps it will help.  I ran into the same issue you're describing in that the rubber plugs in the bed were above the drains on the Retrax storage piece.

 

I picked up some brass reducer barbs from Home Depot to go from 1/2" to 3/8".  Picked up a 10' piece of 3/8" tube too.

 

Reducing to the 3/8" tube allowed me to put the drain hoses through a bed drain hole on each side that is in the floor of the bed, just behind the front wall of the bed. 

 

Pro tip - using a hair dryer to warm up the tubing will help you get it into those holes in the truck bed.  At room temp, the hose is somewhat stiff.

Posted

At first I didn't want to use those holes so I didn't have an obstruction on the floor, but after thinking about it if that is ever a problem I can just remove them temporarily.

 

Is there a reason you went to the trouble of reducing the tube to fit in the existing holes instead of drilling them out to accept the 1/2" tube?

Posted

Make sure and get your rails tilted outward slightly so that the outside edge sits down nicely on the bed rail.  This will aid in proper drainage...

Posted

I used the two existing holes in the bed floor just rear of the cab. Not sure if it was the same 1/2" hose or not, but with a little bit of work the hoses fit in fine. Did not want to drill into a new truck. And honestly if you need to put something in the truck like a sheet of plywood and you know it wont be pouring rain, just pull the hoses out and put them back in after.

Posted
22 hours ago, zelmo said:

At first I didn't want to use those holes so I didn't have an obstruction on the floor, but after thinking about it if that is ever a problem I can just remove them temporarily.

 

Is there a reason you went to the trouble of reducing the tube to fit in the existing holes instead of drilling them out to accept the 1/2" tube?

 

Drilling would have been the easier option, but I wasn't too keen on taking a drill bit to a new truck.  Since putting in the Retrax, I have also added the rubber GMC bed mat.  I carefully measured and cut holes in it for the hoses to pass through.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Odd question but here goes... I live in Phoenix. We haven't gotten rain in over 100 days. How necessary are those drain tubes? I just hate the thought of having to drill and/or obstructing part of the floor and losing more clean space. 

  • 1 year later...
Posted
On 5/7/2020 at 8:51 AM, cdh7917 said:

 

Drilling would have been the easier option, but I wasn't too keen on taking a drill bit to a new truck.  Since putting in the Retrax, I have also added the rubber GMC bed mat.  I carefully measured and cut holes in it for the hoses to pass through.

Do you mind sharing a picture? I’m currently in the same situation of not wanting to drill and I also have a bed mat. I want to see how it looks to get an idea!

Posted

I didn't want to drill either so I did the same thing and got reducer barbs and run the smaller hose through the existing holes. I have the factory spray in liner and I don't want to cause rust enlarging or drilling new holes. The hose with the Retrax is too thick/large to fit into the existing holes. I tried and gave up. I tried to redo the hose and just use the smaller hose and try to stretch it to fit on the Retrax plastic pieces that snap into the bottom of the metal housing. That didn't work out either. For some reason now, I was able to just slip fit the smaller hose inside the Retrax hose then through the holes. I had issues with the hose coming off the Retrax nipple since it is just a slip fit with the brass reducer hanging on it. I didn't have any hose clamps the right size to put on it. I'll have to pick some up or try to find a thinner diameter hose that fits the Retrax nipple that can be shoved through the bed floor holes. This is the only picture I have from the original install and it's hard to see the hoses.

IMG_20210618_003705.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 627 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
    • Yes your absolutely right, I been looking at the 4 inch BDS one and it acutely states you can use the stock 20’s just not the 17’s or 18’s, I also didn’t realize that with my 275/60r20 stock wheels I’m already running 33 inch diameter wheel setup lol so I can just run my stock wheels and tires atleast to start.
    • I would expect that to be lift-kit dependent.  If the kit has interference issues w stock wheels, then the kit/manufacturer should indicate that somewhere.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...