Pulling a 32' travel trailer

[BJTruck]

We have a 2003 Silverado v8 6.0 L engine. Currently we are looking at travel trailers and found a 32' with a dry weight of 6,800 lbs. I'm worried about the ability of a 1/2 ton truck to tow such a long and heavy trailer. We want to travel with it, including in mountainous areas. Do you think that our truck could handle it if we got weight distribution and sway bars? Thanks for your help.

[CamGTP]

What package did your truck come with?

 

Is it's a SS package with the 6.0?? Or a Vortec MAX truck?

 

Is it a 1500HD with the 6.0??

 

Do you know your gear ratio and maximum towing capacity?

 

 

6,800lbs dry is a lot already, add in all your gear/stuff, water, food and you are going to be over 8,000lbs in my opinion. Then add the weight of your family too. A half ton truck with the perfect package could probably tow it but I wouldn't want to go far distances. A weight distribution hitch with sway control would really help. Even some helper bags for the back and some beefier tires.

[BJTruck]

Thanks CamGTP. It's a 1500HD LS 4x2 with the 6.0. The maximum towing capacity is 9,900 to 10,200 lbs. I think 8,000 lbs is a good estimate. I just don't want to take any chances, but according to the towing capacity, it should work. We don't have a lot of gear/stuff and there are 4 of us (2 small kids). Yes, we are looking at getting beefier tires to help.

[CamGTP]

Those 1500HD's are 2500's in all reality.

 

You should have no issue towing with one of those then. They have 8 lug axles/wheels and much heavier duty frame than a standard 1500 half ton truck. You will still notice that the trailer is back there but nothing like if you had a real half ton truck.

 

Some good tires, the right tire pressures and the hitch setup should be all you need for this.

[intheburbs]

I tow a 32', 8600-lb trailer with my Suburban 2500.  Which, underneath the body, is the same thing as the 1500HD pickups.  I've pulled it to Yellowstone, through the Eisenhower Tunnel (elev 11,000'), and to the Grand Canyon.  It's done everything I've needed it to do.

 

You'll be fine with that tow vehicle. 

 

My rig:

[BJTruck]

Thank you so much CAMGTP and intheburbs. That makes me feel a lot better.

[SunShine01]

Towing won’t be an issue once you balance your load out. You got plenty of power. Hilly terrain might be reason for a little higher octane gas maybe ? Your knock sensors should assist you. Nothing worse than a gas knock when thromping the gas pedal trying to ascend a elevated area.

Where I would be concerned more would be in stopping.

Personally I’d replace my rotors with vented ones. Summit Racing has some great add ons for your truck.


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[CamGTP]

I do agree that mid grade or higher fuels when towing super heavy loads. 87 octane will ping too easy when things get real hot and you're working the engine a lot.

[BJTruck]

SunShine01 I appreciate the input about using a higher octane and vented rotors. I'll be sure to do both. Do you guys have an recommendations for tires and sway bar? I've found some possible options online, but I'm open to suggestions.

[diyer2]

How about this.

Consider using Amsoil oil for your trip.

Higher octane fuel.

Best tow bar available? https://www.propridehitch.com/propride-3p-trailer-sway-control-hitch

The vented rotors will help but not necessary IMO.

The best advice, Slow down.

No need to keep up with traffic pulling mountain grades either.

 

[intheburbs]

 

On 5/18/2020 at 11:35 PM, CamGTP said:

I do agree that mid grade or higher fuels when towing super heavy loads. 87 octane will ping too easy when things get real hot and you're working the engine a lot.

 

I've logged tens of thousands of miles, towing right at max GCWR, a lot of it in the Rockies, and have never, once, experienced anything that would make me doubt using anything but 87 octane (or 85 in higher elevations like CO).  That includes situations where I have the pedal pressed to the floor, in second gear, engine at 4000 RPM, climbing 5% or even 7% grades, over a stretch of 8 or 10 miles (Eisenhower Tunnel approaches). 

 

Waste of money, IMHO.  If your engine is pinging on regular (assuming it's not a high-compression engine where premium is recommended, like the 6.2 L9H in my Denali), the problem is your engine, not the gas.

 

"Hot" like this?  Never pinged once...

 

And is this "heavy" enough?

[CamGTP]

The ping/knock I am talking about is something you don't hear because the computer will have already pulled the timing away to make it stop.

 

I'm a guy that uses my laptop with tuning software to see these things. These computers are very smart and will do what it takes to make the most power possible under the current situations. The knock events aren't likely to be heard and I understand we aren't talking like a 100hp loss here. More like 20-30hp with less timing on a stock vehicle.

 

If I have the ability to lessen the timing pull and allow for all the power all the time for hardly anymore more money, I'm probably going to do it.