Jump to content

First impression towing


Recommended Posts

Posted

Well just traded my 2018 for a 2020 both High Country Duramax. We camp with a 16,000 pound fifth wheel so tow often in the summer. The 2020 has the factory hitch with a curt 25k. First off had to move the hitch to the highest setting and it still touched the bed rail pulling in my driveway the old truck was close but didn’t touch. The truck pulls very smoothly and feels good in the road transmission shifts a lot smoother than the 2018 but when pulling hills in Vermont is noticeable less power. With the 2018 I could set Cruze control at 72 and it would maintain speed today I was not able to at all was down to 68 for a bit on a hill I could go 75 if I didn’t pay attention. Does not have the pulling power. Then after pulling hill I had to go down a 7% grade one mile long and stop at the bottom and found the exhaust brake way less effective. 
 

I am over all impressed with the truck and the way it rides handles and pulls with confidence but they have missed the mark when programming the transmission for towing. This is my fourth duramax and I work on these as my day job and feel they really have cut power while towing not sure if it is engine power or just they way it is delivered with the transmission but feels about the same as my 15 duramax maybe little less.

 

Still a great truck 

Posted
Well just traded my 2018 for a 2020 both High Country Duramax. We camp with a 16,000 pound fifth wheel so tow often in the summer. The 2020 has the factory hitch with a curt 25k. First off had to move the hitch to the highest setting and it still touched the bed rail pulling in my driveway the old truck was close but didn’t touch. The truck pulls very smoothly and feels good in the road transmission shifts a lot smoother than the 2018 but when pulling hills in Vermont is noticeable less power. With the 2018 I could set Cruze control at 72 and it would maintain speed today I was not able to at all was down to 68 for a bit on a hill I could go 75 if I didn’t pay attention. Does not have the pulling power. Then after pulling hill I had to go down a 7% grade one mile long and stop at the bottom and found the exhaust brake way less effective. 

 

I am over all impressed with the truck and the way it rides handles and pulls with confidence but they have missed the mark when programming the transmission for towing. This is my fourth duramax and I work on these as my day job and feel they really have cut power while towing not sure if it is engine power or just they way it is delivered with the transmission but feels about the same as my 15 duramax maybe little less.

 

Still a great truck 

I don't decelerate on hills towing 17k, but there is a delay on cruise control before it starts accelerating. Might need to break yours in some more? I agree with exhaust braking, could be better. Love the truck though and I hit my tonneau cover rails often, but they come in 2.75" on each side. My hitch weight varies between 2600 and 3100. Truck will sit quite a bit with that much weight and still unsure if I want bags. Wheel seems a little loose with that weight on as well, but unsure if it's my imagination.

 

Still love the truck as well. Gas mileage is around 10 towing that much too.

 

Dk

 

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

Posted
5 hours ago, Jrscrib said:

Well just traded my 2018 for a 2020 both High Country Duramax. We camp with a 16,000 pound fifth wheel so tow often in the summer. The 2020 has the factory hitch with a curt 25k. First off had to move the hitch to the highest setting and it still touched the bed rail pulling in my driveway the old truck was close but didn’t touch. The truck pulls very smoothly and feels good in the road transmission shifts a lot smoother than the 2018 but when pulling hills in Vermont is noticeable less power. With the 2018 I could set Cruze control at 72 and it would maintain speed today I was not able to at all was down to 68 for a bit on a hill I could go 75 if I didn’t pay attention. Does not have the pulling power. Then after pulling hill I had to go down a 7% grade one mile long and stop at the bottom and found the exhaust brake way less effective. 
 

I am over all impressed with the truck and the way it rides handles and pulls with confidence but they have missed the mark when programming the transmission for towing. This is my fourth duramax and I work on these as my day job and feel they really have cut power while towing not sure if it is engine power or just they way it is delivered with the transmission but feels about the same as my 15 duramax maybe little less.

 

Still a great truck 

The axle ratio is likely making the difference.  2018s had a 3.73 with the Duramax, while 2020s have a 3.42.  The 3.42 is intended to improve fuel economy in the higher transmission gears, while the extra lower tranny gears help with a heavy launch.  If you were used to pulling a grade in 4th gear of the 6-speed Allison (1.00:1) with the 3.73s, you may need to drop from 7th (1.00) in the new 10 speed to 6th (1.26) to get better torque multiplication (3.42 x 1.26) = 4.31 > (3.73 x 1.00).  That will give you more grunt when you need it.  In 3rd gear of your 2018, you were at 3.73 x 1.406 = 5.24, so 6th gear in the new truck splits the difference between 3rd and 4th of your old truck.

Posted
19 hours ago, Jrscrib said:

Well just traded my 2018 for a 2020 both High Country Duramax. We camp with a 16,000 pound fifth wheel so tow often in the summer. The 2020 has the factory hitch with a curt 25k. First off had to move the hitch to the highest setting and it still touched the bed rail pulling in my driveway the old truck was close but didn’t touch. The truck pulls very smoothly and feels good in the road transmission shifts a lot smoother than the 2018 but when pulling hills in Vermont is noticeable less power. With the 2018 I could set Cruze control at 72 and it would maintain speed today I was not able to at all was down to 68 for a bit on a hill I could go 75 if I didn’t pay attention. Does not have the pulling power. Then after pulling hill I had to go down a 7% grade one mile long and stop at the bottom and found the exhaust brake way less effective. 
 

I am over all impressed with the truck and the way it rides handles and pulls with confidence but they have missed the mark when programming the transmission for towing. This is my fourth duramax and I work on these as my day job and feel they really have cut power while towing not sure if it is engine power or just they way it is delivered with the transmission but feels about the same as my 15 duramax maybe little less.

 

Still a great truck 

I went from a '15 LML 6-speed 3.73 to this my '20.  I agree with the post above, the 2 highest gears are not made to pull above 10k IMHO.  The improved fuel mileage is very noticeable unloaded due to the higher gearing.  I only pull ~14K (double-tow) but, it's over Colorado mountain passes, i.e. Monarch Pass, which does not get any steeper up and down.  My first legitimate pull was this weekend, my comparison as follows 15' to '20

No noticeable difference in climbing, flat land, acceleration, etc. I would guess 20K + would be the true test

Downhill the 10 speed, using manual shines for compression hold-back, mainly because in manual mode you have more gears to choose from, the exhaust brake is barely noticeable like the '15

My 5th Duramax, and I love them, no other machine like them!

I have the Curt 25K puck system hitch, as well.  Totally too low on the highest setting, almost laughably too low!  I imagine it will take a DOT, engineering approval but they need an extension system, at least 3 more bolt holes up.  Not happy at all with it.  Pro Grade app/system is buggy at best, the commercials make it look perfect.  My cameras have been on back order for 5 months but I created a profile for my 5th wheel and it constantly turns my brake gain to 0 when I turn the truck off, and I run the TPMS system all of the way through.  When I hit the "Done" button the readings disappear, went through it 8 times and gave up. 

Posted

I have a 2020 3500 srw and tow my 5th wheel with a goose neck conversion. I had a 2017 3500 srw with same set up and hit the sides a couple of times. The new trucks are supposed to have a 1” lower side and I have not hit the sides yet(knock on wood).


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,791
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    d.lowrey
    Newest Member
    d.lowrey
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 2,469 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
    • Fix one problem and find another.   Truck didn't have a thermostat in it so I flushed out the system today and refilled with 50/50 Dexcool. This truck is so old (LOL) that it has a sticker under the hood alerting people to the fact that it contains such. There is also an orange supplement with the owner's manual alerting the owner that "Your vehicle is one of a number of late production 1995 General Motors vehicles that use a newly developed engine coolant in the cooling system..."   I was still a little flummoxed by what seemed like a rich condition (exhaust smell, and a puff of carbon with a punchy rev). While watching the coolant temperature and testing the thermostat with my scanner, I happened to notice the IAT (incoming air temperature) to the intake was -40F. I know the temp is below average today, but I can still feel my face, and I was wearing shorts.   D'oh!! I realized I had never plugged the IAT back in, and the airbox was out while I was doing coolant. So I paused, reinstalled the airbox and plugged in the IAT, and viola. Things cleared right up, and I watched the coolant temp climb to a reported 198 degrees on the scanner (195 thermostat) and then it dropped to 194 (open) and then back up to 198 and held. Let it cool, came back, checked the coolant level and was satisifed.   Victory lap?   It needed more than the couple of gallons of gas I put in it from almost bone dry, so I ran it up to the gas station. It had earned it, or, at least I was pretty certain I wouldn't be draining or removing the tank anytime soon.   CEL popped on just as I was cruising a nice steady 40mph, just after coasting down a slight downhill curve.. Of course, it did, because, why let me enjoy not having dash emojis for a little while.   I just happened to have the scanner plugged in. I don't text and drive but I might scan and drive. Don't tell the police.   P0401, EGR flow insufficient.    Well, hello, EGR... ...my old friend! Welcome to the party, now that the engine reaches the factory-programmed operating temperature. I'm sure it was gagging on hostile, rich exhaust and carbon this whole time so I'll take it off and look again.   At least it's easily accessible, and worst case, about $65 to replace.   To keep, or to sell... Hmm. I want it running correctly either way. It's easier to sell when there are no fault codes.   It needs tires (they're aged out and cracking)   It could probably use an oil pan seal, or maybe the timing cover gasket/ junction with the pan needs redone because I've got an issue there that leaves a drop of oil on the floor.   If I do tires I'm sure they'll say the ball joints could use freshening, and, and, and, and.... At some point I'll have to stop. I can't (shouldn't) make it perfect, that's not what this rig is.
    • Take it back. That's about all you can do.  Mark 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...