Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

You've got an uphill battle on your hands here.

 

Quote

 

#PIT5403G: Various Vehicle Handling Concerns Suspension Noise or Damaged Suspension Components Due to Vehicle Modifications - (Apr 6, 2020)

 

Subject: Various Vehicle Handling Concerns Suspension Noise or Damaged Suspension Components Due to Vehicle Modifications

Condition/Concern

Some owners may comment on various handling, vehicle dynamics concerns, noises from the suspension or underbody, or issues related to damaged suspension components.

These concerns may occur if the vehicle’s suspension system has been modified by using aftermarket suspension lift or lowering kits, or making modifications to the vehicle including adjusting components beyond factory specifications such as, but not limited to adjusting torsion bar suspensions to change suspension height and/or aftermarket wheels and/or tires installed. 

 

Warranty Information

Any concerns or damage that occurs as a result of vehicle modification may not be covered under the Terms of the New Vehicle Limited Warranty. Reference the latest version of TSB 09-00-89-016 (Warranty Administration – Labor Operation 0600014 – Suspected Tampering or Vehicle Modifications) if needed.    

 

And here is from the warranty booklet that comes with the truck:

 

Quote

 

New Vehicle Limited Warranty

What Is Not Covered

 

Damage Due to Accident, Misuse, or Alteration

 

The New Vehicle Limited Warranty does not cover damage caused as the result of any of the following:

 

Collision, fire, theft, freezing, vandalism, riot, explosion, or objects striking the vehicle

Misuse of the vehicle such as driving over curbs, overloading, racing, or other competition. Proper vehicle use is discussed in the owner manual.

Alteration, modification, or tampering to the vehicle, including, but not limited to the body, chassis, powertrain, driveline, software, or other components after final assembly by GM.

Coverages do not apply if the odometer has been disconnected, its reading has been altered, or mileage cannot be determined.

Installation of non-GM (General Motors) parts

Water or fluid contamination

Damage resulting from hail, floods, windstorms, lightning, and other environmental conditions

Alteration of glass parts by application of tinting films

 

 

 

Edited by newdude
  • Like 1
Posted
6 minutes ago, newdude said:

You've got an uphill battle on your hands here.

 

 

 

And here is from the warranty booklet that comes with the truck:

 

 

 

 

I agree but they’ve gotta prove it. They can’t just void a warranty because of a lift. 

Posted

Just curious, I've never understood why guys "JACK" up their trucks??  They are already high enough off the ground, then you add these lifts and have to JUMP up into them, and then they also drive like old horse chariots!  To each their own, but I prefer not to use a ladder to get into my truck. 

 

Father is a mechanic and he says the moment you jack them up, stuff starts to go wrong, especially in the front end areas. 

Good luck with your claim, I hope another dealer can get the issue fixed for you. 

BTW, where is that dealership getting off charging $189 just to open it up???  That's an outrageous rate.  

  • Like 1
Posted
I agree but they’ve gotta prove it. They can’t just void a warranty because of a lift. 
I have seen the "out of spec argument" play out in arbitration then it went to court, the judge sided with the dealer/manufacturer. Especially since the way it is worded in the warranty. They even tried the Magnuson-Moss argument and the lawyers chewed that up. So yes they can and do just void warranties. Pay to play.

Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted
6 minutes ago, TNTSilverado said:

Just curious, I've never understood why guys "JACK" up their trucks??  They are already high enough off the ground, then you add these lifts and have to JUMP up into them, and then they also drive like old horse chariots!  To each their own, but I prefer not to use a ladder to get into my truck. 

 

Father is a mechanic and he says the moment you jack them up, stuff starts to go wrong, especially in the front end areas. 

Good luck with your claim, I hope another dealer can get the issue fixed for you. 

BTW, where is that dealership getting off charging $189 just to open it up???  That's an outrageous rate.  

The main reasons I did it was to put a little bit bigger tires on and I’m 6’5 so I wanted to step up into the truck a bit. I don’t have side steps and have 0 issue getting in and out of it. It’s more comfortable for me now. The Chevy stance out of the gate is a little whimpy but I love the trucks. Yeah the dealer is being a little outrageous. I’ve got that in an email and am ready to show it to gm. Suspension lifts are “supposedly better” than levels because it maintains factory angles. It does actually ride almost identical to stock 

Posted

@Ted Drury.....I have never ridden in a truck that has a lift that rides better than factory. Heck my neighbor down the street has a 2020 LT Trailboss, and he is super envious of how my High Country rides compared to his truck. But hey, enjoy your truck, take care 

 

Posted (edited)

Think you've got it all wrong here.  YOU modified YOUR truck.  It was ok before the mod.  What you did broke it.  GM's policy, as shown above, is to void the warranty.  You modified their driveline.  It worked before you got your "I can't stand it--gotta change stuff!" hands on it.  So they've voided your warranty in their computer, and every GM dealer in the universe has that locked in now.  Don't like it?  Fine.  Sue GM.  That's what they want.  That way, YOU'LL have to prove it.  They've got a helluva lot more better lawyers than you do.  The very best you could do is to end up paying half.  Just man up and pay for the repair now.  The rest of us shouldn't have to subsidize your foolishness, just because you want a "he-man" truck, which in most all cases, is overcompensation for other physical shortcomings.  

Edited by MaverickZ71
  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted
Yup. I went to a crappy dealer. So I’ve got the BBB involved and GMs customer relations management digging into the issue. When talking with the manager of customer relations she said they have to show proof as well and then I told her I asked them to do that the dealer wanted to charge me 189 dollars an hour to look. I’ve got that in email from him as well. I told her this and she was flabbergasted. Diving deeper I took it back to the lift shop and they did their own digging for me for free. They flushed my differential at a shop down the street and paid for it and had them look at my differential. They said it’s perfectly fine and the same as any other Chevy. Then the lift shop relayed that it might be my dealer throwing a shot at their shop because the dealer uses a guy that lifts their trucks right down the road from their lift shop. In any instance it’s wild they were able to put a hold on my warranty and then charge me for something I didn’t need. ****** they might have not even put a new one on 
So your diff is good. So are you just trying to get your warranty re-instated or what? When the dealer opened it up what did they say was wrong with it.

On a sort of different subject, since you lifted the truck you should be regearing anyways. My opinion are 4.56s if not, no less then 4.10s.

Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk

Posted
2 hours ago, MaverickZ71 said:

Think you've got it all wrong here.  YOU modified YOUR truck.  It was ok before the mod.  What you did broke it.  GM's policy, as shown above, is to void the warranty.  You modified their driveline.  It worked before you got your "I can't stand it--gotta change stuff!" hands on it.  So they've voided your warranty in their computer, and every GM dealer in the universe has that locked in now.  Don't like it?  Fine.  Sue GM.  That's what they want.  That way, YOU'LL have to prove it.  They've got a helluva lot more better lawyers than you do.  The very best you could do is to end up paying half.  Just man up and pay for the repair now.  The rest of us shouldn't have to subsidize your foolishness, just because you want a "he-man" truck, which in most all cases, is overcompensation for other physical shortcomings.  

Suggest you look up Magnuson-Moss act. Get your head out of the sand. It actually didn’t break it. I flushed the differential and it’s fine. My differential is perfectly in tact. The dealer voided the warranty and tried to sell me a part I didn’t need. Sounds like you’re a big tough guy behind the computer. Get on with yourself 

  • Like 2
Posted
3 hours ago, TNTSilverado said:

@Ted Drury.....I have never ridden in a truck that has a lift that rides better than factory. Heck my neighbor down the street has a 2020 LT Trailboss, and he is super envious of how my High Country rides compared to his truck. But hey, enjoy your truck, take care 

 

It doesn’t ride as well but it’s not bad. She’s just a pavement princess so I don’t really notice. I’ll probably get some new coil overs in about 40,000 more miles. The new RC vertex coilovers are so smooth. 

Posted
2 hours ago, Bash74 said:

So your diff is good. So are you just trying to get your warranty re-instated or what? When the dealer opened it up what did they say was wrong with it.

On a sort of different subject, since you lifted the truck you should be regearing anyways. My opinion are 4.56s if not, no less then 4.10s.

Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk
 

Yeah this was all done second hand by myself with the lift shop. We both suspected the dealer of being dishonest and we were correct. The dealer wouldn’t tell me what was wrong with it. They didn’t open it up. They wanted me to pay for them to do it. Then voided the warranty. So I just want my warranty to be re-instated at this point and not go there again hahaha. Lesson learned there. 

Posted
1 minute ago, Ted Drury said:

Suggest you look up Magnuson-Moss act. Get your head out of the sand. It actually didn’t break it. I flushed the differential and it’s fine. My differential is perfectly in tact. The dealer voided the warranty and tried to sell me a part I didn’t need. Sounds like you’re a big tough guy behind the computer. Get on with yourself 

Glad to see you were able to fix the situation yourself but yeah, i have seen that magnuson act pulled several times these last couple decades on forums and i don't think i remember one time it actually came into play and helped.

 

It is simple today, if you want to mod your vehicle while under warranty you should automatically expect any claims regardless of it being at fault or not, be denied. Yeah it sucks but it is what it is, they have high paid lawyers and little tiny written text that more then likely states they have the authority to essentially do wherever they want.

Posted
3 minutes ago, BIGDOGx said:

Glad to see you were able to fix the situation yourself but yeah, i have seen that magnuson act pulled several times these last couple decades on forums and i don't think i remember one time it actually came into play and helped.

 

It is simple today, if you want to mod your vehicle while under warranty you should automatically expect any claims regardless of it being at fault or not, be denied. Yeah it sucks but it is what it is, they have high paid lawyers and little tiny written text that more then likely states they have the authority to essentially do wherever they want.

The gm customer relations manager was saying they need definitive proof and that they can’t void the entire warranty. I messed up by not asking the dealer about it when I bought the truck. But hey, you live and learn. Probably trading it in, in about two more years and just going the Duramax route 

Posted

fyi



Federal law precludes a dealer from voiding warranty just because of using aftermarket speed equipment, with only two exceptions: the warranty can be voided if the aftermarket part causes damage, or adversely affects the emissions or the emissions system. SEMA (Specialty Equipment Market Association) reported that a trade association representing specialty automotive parts manufacturers, the following quotes have been extracted:



"The vehicle manufacturer is not allowed to void the vehicle warranty just because aftermarket equipment is installed on the vehicle. This protection for consumers is the result of a parts self-certification program developed by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and the Specialty Equipment Market Association (SEMA).



These are the surrounding facts about aftermarket parts relating to warranties. Now that you are aware, be guided accordingly.



  • Thanks 1
Posted
Yeah this was all done second hand by myself with the lift shop. We both suspected the dealer of being dishonest and we were correct. The dealer wouldn’t tell me what was wrong with it. They didn’t open it up. They wanted me to pay for them to do it. Then voided the warranty. So I just want my warranty to be re-instated at this point and not go there again hahaha. Lesson learned there. 
Have you actually talked to a warranty specialist at GM. The relations person is to far disconnected to help. Since the dealer didn't actually do any work, no claim was made and nothing wrong with it then they will probably help you out. It's worth a shot. Also ask what was put in the system as a reason to void warranty.

Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...