Jump to content

Max Trailering spring part numbers help

pewterliftedz
 Share

Recommended Posts

pewterliftedz Enthusiast

pewterliftedz

Posted
Posted (edited)

The rear sag on my truck is pretty drastic compared to my 2017, so I would like to get a beefier spring pack for the rear.  Can someone help locate part numbers for the leaf springs and front coil springs from the Max Trailering Package?

Thanks!

 

EDIT: My truck sags 1.5" with just my daily bed load of toolbox/tools and bed cover.  Total is ~500lbs

Edited by pewterliftedz
  • Replies 34
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

topgear1224
topgear1224

Chevrolet Silverado 1500 equipped with composite rear leaf springs: LT trim level with the 5.3L V8 L84 engine, LT trim level with Short Bed and 3.0 The block nor the shock is going to help with sag

Phatty
Phatty

This is my exact truck too.  I hooked up my 6500lbs RV with 600lbs tongue weight and got 3.75" sag even with distribution hitch.  That's ridiculous. I put the firestone airbags on the next day (airl

OnTheReel
OnTheReel

84469778 are the leaf springs on my 19 NHT. They changed the springs for 2020 so you might want to crawl under a ‘20 NHT and get the number off those instead.   My truck still squats a bit anyw

Posted Images

topgear1224 Enthusiast

topgear1224

Posted
Posted

The changes are just in the rear it goes from 3800 to 4150 capacity.

 

Maybe air bags would be cheaper than 2 complete leaf packs and shocks?

 

Do you have one of the trucks with the composite leaf springs?

 

Edit: accurate capacities.

 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

 

 

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted

Bags would be cheaper.  Being you have Z71 you'd also need the shocks as well.  Over $1200 for the front and rear springs and shocks.  

AlaskaErik Enthusiast

AlaskaErik

Posted
Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, topgear1224 said:

The changes are just in the rear it goes from 3850 to 4200 capacity.

 

Maybe air bags would be cheaper than 2 complete leaf packs and shocks?

 

Do you have one of the trucks with the composite leaf springs?

 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

I have the Max Trailering option and my rear axle gross is only 4150 lbs.

Quote

 

 

Edited by AlaskaErik
pewterliftedz Enthusiast

pewterliftedz

Posted
  • Author
Posted
4 hours ago, newdude said:

Bags would be cheaper.  Being you have Z71 you'd also need the shocks as well.  Over $1200 for the front and rear springs and shocks.  

 

10 hours ago, topgear1224 said:

The changes are just in the rear it goes from 3800 to 4150 capacity.

 

Maybe air bags would be cheaper than 2 complete leaf packs and shocks?

 

Do you have one of the trucks with the composite leaf springs?

 

Edit: accurate capacities.

 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

I already have Bilstein 5100s in the rear and I added a 2" Trail Boss lift block to compensate for the sag.  No my truck doesn't have the composite spring, I believe that was only on LT trucks.  I'm not a fan of airbags honestly, I found part number 847540250 on a Max Trailering truck, and they're only $145 per side.

OnTheReel Senior Enthusiast

OnTheReel

Posted
Posted

84469778 are the leaf springs on my 19 NHT. They changed the springs for 2020 so you might want to crawl under a ‘20 NHT and get the number off those instead.
 

My truck still squats a bit anyway, so perhaps airbags would be a better option.

  • Like 1
topgear1224 Enthusiast

topgear1224

Posted
Posted
I already have Bilstein 5100s in the rear and I added a 2" Trail Boss lift block to compensate for the sag.  No my truck doesn't have the composite spring, I believe that was only on LT trucks.  I'm not a fan of airbags honestly, I found part number 847540250 on a Max Trailering truck, and they're only $145 per side.
Chevrolet Silverado 1500 equipped with composite rear leaf springs:

LT trim level with the 5.3L V8 L84 engine,
LT trim level with Short Bed and 3.0

The block nor the shock is going to help with sag. It's going to squat the same amount either way.

You would need to add a leaf or like you said get the full spring pack for both sides and the shocks. It's still going to squat.

If you added a 2 inch block your rear is now 3.5 high unloaded vs the front.

meaning if you have the same weight in the bed the bed should be approximately two inches higher then before when loaded.

Grab either hellwig helper springs 61912
timbren springs GMRTT15S
If you don't like airbags those are going to be the only options.

If you're mad serious about squat grab both.

How much weight is in your bed? If towing how much tongue weight? Are you sure you're not overloading your rear axle? Have you had a chance to take it to a CAT scale?


Here I am maxed out 15k LBS. 900lbs of tongue weight. You can see it squatted but that's to be expected maxed-out doesn't matter if it's a 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton or 1 ton. My hitch was also set about 1/2 inch too high causing the nose to unload by about 150lbs.

don't forget to the max tow actually comes with a different rear axle, it's not just the ratio.765faa41acbe9ef0462c343ab11d146d.jpg

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, topgear1224 said:

There are no changes to the front suspension for the NHT (max tow) trucks.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

 

From Z71 to NHT yes they are different springs and shocks.  Regular 4x4 and NHT 4x4 use the same front stuff.  

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted (edited)
15 minutes ago, topgear1224 said:

Chevrolet Silverado 1500 equipped with composite rear leaf springs:

LT trim level with the 5.3L V8 L84 engine,
LT trim level with Short Bed and 3.0

The block nor the shock is going to help with sag. It's going to squat the same amount either way.

You would need to add a leaf or like you said get the full spring pack for both sides and the shocks. It's still going to squat.

If you added a 2 inch block your rear is now 3.5 high unloaded vs the front.

meaning if you have the same weight in the bed the bed should be approximately two inches higher then before when loaded.

Grab either hellwig helper springs 61912
timbren springs GMRTT15S
If you don't like airbags those are going to be the only options.

If you're mad serious about squat grab both.

How much weight is in your bed? If towing how much tongue weight? Are you sure you're not overloading your rear axle? Have you had a chance to take it to a CAT scale?


Here I am maxed out 15k LBS. 900lbs of tongue weight. You can see it squatted but that's to be expected maxed-out doesn't matter if it's a 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton or 1 ton. My hitch was also set about 1/2 inch too high causing the nose to unload by about 150lbs.

don't forget to the max tow actually comes with a different rear axle, it's not just the ratio.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

 

 

This.  This is the best answers here.  Changing springs isn't going to help OP's issue.  

Edited by newdude
  • Like 1
topgear1224 Enthusiast

topgear1224

Posted
Posted
 

From Z71 to NHT yes they are different springs and shocks.  Regular 4x4 and NHT 4x4 use the same front stuff.  

Interesting dealer told me the all the strut assemblies are the same PN except for the snow plow package. (And obviously the TB/AT4)

 

What is the spring rate on the Z71 vs the regular 4x4?

 

I'm trying to find a way to fix my bottom out issue going down the highway. It hits so hard that when it comes back up the rear tires are leaving the ground.

 

although I believe there's definitely a problem in the rear I think a lot of it has to do with the front sending a bunch of weight to the rear.

 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

pewterliftedz Enthusiast

pewterliftedz

Posted
  • Author
Posted
48 minutes ago, topgear1224 said:

Chevrolet Silverado 1500 equipped with composite rear leaf springs:

LT trim level with the 5.3L V8 L84 engine,
LT trim level with Short Bed and 3.0

The block nor the shock is going to help with sag. It's going to squat the same amount either way.

You would need to add a leaf or like you said get the full spring pack for both sides and the shocks. It's still going to squat.

If you added a 2 inch block your rear is now 3.5 high unloaded vs the front.

meaning if you have the same weight in the bed the bed should be approximately two inches higher then before when loaded.

Grab either hellwig helper springs 61912
timbren springs GMRTT15S
If you don't like airbags those are going to be the only options.

If you're mad serious about squat grab both.

How much weight is in your bed? If towing how much tongue weight? Are you sure you're not overloading your rear axle? Have you had a chance to take it to a CAT scale?


Here I am maxed out 15k LBS. 900lbs of tongue weight. You can see it squatted but that's to be expected maxed-out doesn't matter if it's a 1/2 ton or 3/4 ton or 1 ton. My hitch was also set about 1/2 inch too high causing the nose to unload by about 150lbs.

don't forget to the max tow actually comes with a different rear axle, it's not just the ratio.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk
 

My truck on a daily basis probably has about 500lb in the bed (winch, toolbox, tools, bedmat, and bed cover).  My truck was sitting perfectly level with just the bed loaded, which is probably 1.5" of squat without a trailer.  I added the 2" block to get me somewhere close to factory specs, and I also tow a 5,000lb travel trailer (with a weight distribution hitch) around during the summer.   My axle isn't overloaded, it's just that these factory springs seem a lot softer than previous gen trucks.  No one makes a Add-a-leaf for our model trucks yet, I looked into it.  Which led me to my current adventure, trying to find NHT rear leaf packs.  I'm okay with some squat while towing, but I wasn't okay sitting level unloaded.

pewterliftedz Enthusiast

pewterliftedz

Posted
  • Author
Posted
45 minutes ago, topgear1224 said:

Interesting dealer told me the all the strut assemblies are the same PN except for the snow plow package. (And obviously the TB/AT4)

 

What is the spring rate on the Z71 vs the regular 4x4?

 

I'm trying to find a way to fix my bottom out issue going down the highway. It hits so hard that when it comes back up the rear tires are leaving the ground.

 

although I believe there's definitely a problem in the rear I think a lot of it has to do with the front sending a bunch of weight to the rear.

 

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

Adding Bilstein 5100 shocks to the rear helps a ton, my rear end doesn't bottom out on the bumpstop anymore when I go over highway whoops/dips.

topgear1224 Enthusiast

topgear1224

Posted
Posted
My truck on a daily basis probably has about 500lb in the bed (winch, toolbox, tools, bedmat, and bed cover).  My truck was sitting perfectly level with just the bed loaded, which is probably 1.5" of squat without a trailer.  I added the 2" block to get me somewhere close to factory specs, and I also tow a 5,000lb travel trailer (with a weight distribution hitch) around during the summer.   My axle isn't overloaded, it's just that these factory springs seem a lot softer than previous gen trucks.  No one makes a Add-a-leaf for our model trucks yet, I looked into it.  Which led me to my current adventure, trying to find NHT rear leaf packs.  I'm okay with some squat while towing, but I wasn't okay sitting level unloaded.
My truck is only rated for 900lbs of tongue weight. 1500 payload between the front and rear axles.


Grab either hellwig helper springs 61912
timbren springs GMRTT15S or both. They are quality products.

They will get you were you are trying to be.

Max tow isn't really that much better or stiffer. It's still gonna "sag" with 500lbs.

Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined

  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 473 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • Chuck FB
      Software Update

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • nfisherman
      Software Update

      By nfisherman · Posted

      Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...