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I purchased a 2014 gmc 5.3 with 80k. the lifters were all replaced under warranty. soon after i noticed 10 psi oil pressure after driving 25 min on highway. dealer replaced oil pump still has 10 psi after 25 min of driving. when i first start up its at 40, oil pressure goes to 70 when rpm exceeds 3500 rpm. oil pressure starts to drop to 20 after 10 min and seems fine. after 25 min it drops to 10 on guage. i had oil pressure checked with mechanical guage and confermed guage is accurate. i asked dealer to che k the screen under oil pressure switch they said it was clean. at this time dealer says nothing is wrong due to specs at 1000,2000,3000 rpm. i called gm customer care and they said to get different dealer to look at. i did and they confermed rpm at different rpm and charged me 118.00 gm customer care did nothing to help me out. i have never seen any truck with 10 psi at idle. does anyone else seem to have this issue?
Hello everyone, I have had a low voltage reading for awhile now(4000+ miles), but today My truck would not start. I tried a jumpstart, which brought the voltage up to 14v from 12v, but still nothing, no solenoid click at all. When i left work, it started fine. I made a couple of stops on the way home, at the first i noticed the starter running slower than normal. At the second stop, is where it died. I towed it home, and of course once home, it started right up. I Managed to recreate this problem. I did some light offroading to get the motor really hot and noticed that while cold, i have a solid 14v, but that gradually drops as the the truck warms up to slightly under 12v. The alternator and battery have been recently tested and passed, the battery is new. Also, it is very hot here in Tucson (110 degrees today). I have two other posts on here about my alternator and a vapor lock issue, dont know if they are also related to this problem. Thank you.
It been few years now maintaining it... I have 2005 sierra 1500 z71 5.3L extended cab... I gotten it at 80,000 and now it at 182k, i have since replaced the alternator, water pump, coolant hose, flush the tranmission fluids, and now i noticed now it be getting hot while im idling and the oil pressure gauge will be low but when i am driving the oil pressure gauge goes back to middle and the coolant temp will go back to the middle instead being hot... it happen when im going through a stop like a traffic jam... it wouldnt last 5min without getting low oil pressure(although no alarm light) and high engine coolant temp (coolant warning light came on) reaching... i been racking my brain trying to figure it out what could it be... it same thing all over again, driving normal then come to a stop, a long stop then my oil pressure will dip low and then engine coolant will dip pass the 210 mark and get hot til if i am idle long enough it will flash coolant light on... i open the hood check the engine, hoses, coolant level is good, fan blowing, but still getting hot with no leaks or steams... i really love my truck i really need to resolve this asap... pls help???
By Stacy Crute
2015 chevy 1500.. 3400 miles. A couple of times the heat didn't work. It always did "next time".. the other day I had to take a 3 hour drive.. it didn't work the whole way there...stopped for an hour..headed back still with no heat (it was 42* so it was not pleasant)
Took to dealer - they said they cant find anything wrong, of course, and of course the he was working fine.
Its only done this a couple of times in the past 2 months now.
Anyone experienced anything similar? It blows out air, and it will adjust the fan speed properly (or what I'm guessing WOULD be properly if it was blowing out heat) based on the temp of the cab. Even when taken off of auto and just turned temp to hi and fan speed up, with AC button off, it was still blowing cold air.
Any ideas? Could it somehow be user error? (doubtful)
Also when the AC button is on, even when its on heat, is the AC really still running? seems dumb that lights always on even when you have the temp high and its blowing heat.
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