Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
1 hour ago, BlaineBug said:

 

Yes, one part number is an AD Delco part number and the other is a General Motors part number, it's the same thermostat, but if you search them individually and uniquely on eBay, you'll see that the prices vary by about double depending on which one you use as your search term!

I kind of see what you mean. But use the filter in ebay and select brands of ACDelco, AC Delco, GM, General Motors, and OEM and you will see close to the same results for both. There seem to be several of aftermarket thermostats being marketed under the GM part number and they are cheaper. But if you search genuine brand ones, you end up with very similar results. Certain things I will use aftermarket but after getting bit using an aftermarket coolant thermostat, that is another added to the list that I will only use the OEM part or OEM alternative for replacement.

Posted
7 minutes ago, mikeyk101 said:

I kind of see what you mean. But use the filter in ebay and select brands of ACDelco, AC Delco, GM, General Motors, and OEM and you will see close to the same results for both. There seem to be several of aftermarket thermostats being marketed under the GM part number and they are cheaper. But if you search genuine brand ones, you end up with very similar results. Certain things I will use aftermarket but after getting bit using an aftermarket coolant thermostat, that is another added to the list that I will only use the OEM part or OEM alternative for replacement.

 

The one I ordered appeared to have all of the GM markings on the thermostat housing including the GM box and packaging.  I'll inspect and post pictures when it arrives.

  • Like 1
Posted

There were a handful of OEM at the lower price but most of them were more. You still can definitely can find good bargains on eBay.

Posted
31 minutes ago, mikeyk101 said:

There were a handful of OEM at the lower price but most of them were more. You still can definitely can find good bargains on eBay.

As an ebay seller myself that's typically my go-to.  I don't use Amazon much, considering that I'm not a prime member, it's much more difficult to find "free shipping" as with Amazon you have an order minimum to achieve that.  On eBay I can buy items that are just a few dollars and search for free shipping.  It's a different approach - most of Amazon is fulfilled by Amazon, whereas ebay is ALL seller fulfilled.

  • Like 1
Posted

 

2 hours ago, BlaineBug said:

 

The one I ordered appeared to have all of the GM markings on the thermostat housing including the GM box and packaging.  I'll inspect and post pictures when it arrives.

 

1 hour ago, mikeyk101 said:

There were a handful of OEM at the lower price but most of them were more. You still can definitely can find good bargains on eBay.

 

For things like this I use Rock Auto and am sure of the parts origin.  Often cheaper than Ebay. When it isn't....I still by RA. 

  • Like 1
Posted
Just now, Grumpy Bear said:

 

 

 

For things like this I use Rock Auto and am sure of the parts origin.  Often cheaper than Ebay. When it isn't....I still by RA. 

I've had a couple of Salty experiences with Rock Auto.  You also have to be careful of lining up warehouses otherwise you can potentially get charged for shipping multiple times.  I've had the wrong parts delivered and/or incorrectly advertised online, where I had to buy them locally when everything was already torn down.  And then when requesting a refund on a "packaged deal" (brake jobs, specifically) they give you peanuts for the parts that didn't work.

There are other PAIN IN THE ARSE stories about Rock Auto as well, and plenty of positive ones as well.

Posted
2 minutes ago, BlaineBug said:

I've had a couple of Salty experiences with Rock Auto.  You also have to be careful of lining up warehouses otherwise you can potentially get charged for shipping multiple times.  I've had the wrong parts delivered and/or incorrectly advertised online, where I had to buy them locally when everything was already torn down.  And then when requesting a refund on a "packaged deal" (brake jobs, specifically) they give you peanuts for the parts that didn't work.

There are other PAIN IN THE ARSE stories about Rock Auto as well, and plenty of positive ones as well.

 

I've had one experience of the wrong part packaged in the right box. They sent me the right part on a single call and ate the shipping. No return either. They sacrificed the part to make me happy. Been using them for years now. I've even had them toss in parts for free. Like a gasket I didn't know I needed. My brother has used them for as long as they have been around. Has some stories of the early days that will raise doubts but the longer they ran the better they got. 

 

Use it or don't. I was just saying.......

Posted (edited)
4 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

I've had one experience of the wrong part packaged in the right box. They sent me the right part on a single call and ate the shipping. No return either. They sacrificed the part to make me happy. Been using them for years now. I've even had them toss in parts for free. Like a gasket I didn't know I needed. My brother has used them for as long as they have been around. Has some stories of the early days that will raise doubts but the longer they ran the better they got. 

 

Use it or don't. I was just saying.......

 

When it comes to a brake job, I can't wait for them to ship, especially if I do not want to reassemble everything with the old parts.  That's the issue, really, the waiting for the items to arrive, especially considering you thought everything was ready to go when the original package arrived.

With that said about 8 years ago I was doing a power steering pump (hydroboost with brakes as well) for a friend's Chevrolet Express 3500 van.  Advance Auto Parts shipped me a CORE RETURN (as in caked with oil and grease!) as the NEW power steering pump.  I'm not sure how in the heck that happens, and although I returned it at the store, I hope they didn't think I was scamming them!

Edited by BlaineBug
  • Haha 1
Posted (edited)
13 hours ago, newdude said:

 

 

Gonna pop them in here for everyone's reference.  6 speed only just to keep things simple.  

 

2014-2018 4.3 V6/6L80:  Transmission cooler in right radiator tank, lines flow from transmission to cooler, cooler to transmission.  V6 are equipped with the TBV.

 

4.32014-2019.jpg.072cee2119d7b086676be2ae38a530c4.jpg

 

2014-early 2016 5.3/6L80 and 2014-2015 6.2/6L80 (yes, these exist):  2014-early 2016 transmission cooler setup had a cooler in the left tank of the radiator, and then the aux cooler is a part of the condenser assembly aka the Combi-Cooler. 

 

Flow would be transmission to the left lower inlet at the left radiator tank cooler, out of the top to the aux cooler (via pipe #14 below), then aux back to the transmission (via pipe #5 below).  Equipped with TBV. 

 

If the TBV is "flipped" or SureCool, these year trucks, the transmission cooling loop would operate like all the 2013 and prior 1500s where the flow was constant all the time as they had no TBV.

 

5.32014-early2016.thumb.jpg.8d60114d69685bc40317866631cfbd65.jpg

 

 

Late 2016-2019 5.3/6L80 "Limited/LD" (still K2XX platform):  GM ditched the transmission cooler in the left tank of the radiator.  The aux cooler on the condenser (the Combi-Cooler) is now the ONLY cooler brick for the transmission. 

 

Equipped with TBV.  I'm 99% sure flow is transmission to the left side of the cooler (via pipe #15 below) and then from the cooler back to the transmission (via pipe #6 below).

 

late2016-2019classic.jpg.8828f6169ffd6cd57253f0e49b3fcb0e.jpg

 

Side note on these trucks.  When bypassed (flip or SureCool) these ones actually keep pretty cool.  When I had mine, on a hot summer day making WOT pulls I struggled to see over 165F.  Winter time however, it keeps TOO cool and would actually LOSE temperature.  It'd get to like 105-110F and when cruising at highway speeds it would drop to 95-99F.  Shifts feeel like a transmission right after a cold start.  I installed the GM lower temp TBV and it drastically improved temps for the winter and improved shifts.  

 

Question @newdude. Rock Auto list radiator GM part #21902 as the unit used for the 4.3 V6 with NHT. A bit thicker. 1.1" instead of the non-NHT 7/8". You didn't speak to the NHT V6. Can you confirm this RPO and part# and line routing? PLEASE 🤩

 

More Information for GM GENUINE 21902 (rockauto.com) 

Edited by Grumpy Bear
Posted
2 minutes ago, BlaineBug said:

 

When it comes to a brake job, I can't wait for them to ship, especially if I do not want to reassemble everything with the old parts.  That's the issue, really, the waiting for the items to arrive, especially considering you thought everything was ready to go when the original package arrived.

With that said about 8 years ago I was doing a power steering pump (hydroboost with brakes as well) for a friend's Chevrolet Express 3500 van.  Advance Auto Parts shipped me a CORE RETURN (as in caked with oil and grease!) as the NEW power steering pump.  I'm not sure how in the heck that happens, and although I returned it at the store, I hope they didn't think I was scamming them!

 

Years ago I changed 6 starters on a Mustang I6 bought with a lifetime warranty from Advanced. Last one I took back I bounced off the counter. We had a relationship by now. :crackup:He asked me what I was so upset about considering the replacements were free. I said, "No one should be so good at this that it can be done in 15 minutes in the snow". Book time was almost two hours. Three bolt starting requires allot of disassembly to reach that top bolt. 

 

Anyway, I took the last rebuilt apart myself. Internal relay contacts were not squared up even close. Fixed that and sent the car to the wrecker about 8 years latter with that starter in it. 

  • Like 1
Posted
5 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

Years ago I changed 6 starters on a Mustang I6 bought with a lifetime warranty from Advanced. Last one I took back I bounced off the counter. We had a relationship by now. :crackup:He asked me what I was so upset about considering the replacements were free. I said, "No one should be so good at this that it can be done in 15 minutes in the snow". Book time was almost two hours. Three bolt starting requires allot of disassembly to reach that top bolt. 

 

Anyway, I took the last rebuilt apart myself. Internal relay contacts were not squared up even close. Fixed that and sent the car to the wrecker about 8 years latter with that starter in it. 

 

Their rebuilds are junk, man.  Had issue with their starters and alternators too.  JUNK!

  • Like 1
Posted
On 8/26/2023 at 1:23 PM, Grumpy Bear said:

 

Question @newdude. Rock Auto list radiator GM part #21902 as the unit used for the 4.3 V6 with NHT. A bit thicker. 1.1" instead of the non-NHT 7/8". You didn't speak to the NHT V6. Can you confirm this RPO and part# and line routing? PLEASE 🤩

 

More Information for GM GENUINE 21902 (rockauto.com) 

 

 

There wasn't an NHT option for V6.  NHT max trailer was only 5.3 and 6.2 for the K2 pickups.  

 

That 21902 wouldn't work because the transmission cooler will flow on the left side of the radiator, engine oil on the right side.  The V6 radiators have engine oil on the left and transmission on the right.  Radiator 84186716/21895 is the only radiator that fits the V6.  

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,462 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
    • Do you have access to BP fuels? Some stations have Silver 91 E-0 priced the same as their 93 E-10.  There is a local Marathon with 90 alky free for $6 a gallon but I go down the road to BP for $5-ish. They also have a 100 E-0 but that stuff is $10 a pop. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...