“Action Required - Open Then Close Driver Window”

steve76t · July 30, 2020

Anyone get the “Action Required - Open Then Close Driver Window” error on your dash? I posted about this error and a few others that I was getting a few months ago. Dealership looked at the truck, had it for two days, and ended up replacing the battery. Fixed the other errors I was getting but I still get the “Action Required - Open Then Close Driver Window” error about once every 7 to 10 days. Truck is at the dealership again, but they haven't found the problem yet.

Anyone else have this problem & did it get fixed? If so, what was your fix???

cmysstailights · July 30, 2020

Happens to my camaro. This is my fix. Push and hold down button. Hold for 3 seconds when fully open, then pres and hold up till fully closed and hold for 3 seconds. Should clear

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steve76t · July 30, 2020

4 minutes ago, cmysstailights said:

Happens to my camaro. This is my fix. Push and hold down button. Hold for 3 seconds when fully open, then pres and hold up till fully closed and hold for 3 seconds. Should clear

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Yup, I do that. However, the error returns within 7 to 10 days. Do you have to do that in your Camaro 4 to 5 times per month?

cmysstailights · July 30, 2020

No, maybe did it 4 times in 8 years. I am on the original battery and its a 2010. Just recently had the battery drain which is what i think caused it.

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rusty503 · July 30, 2020

That message means you lost power. Possible issues include bad ground(s), bad negative cable at the battery and possible broken wires in the door hinge area.

steve76t · July 31, 2020

18 hours ago, rusty503 said:

That message means you lost power. Possible issues include bad ground(s), bad negative cable at the battery and possible broken wires in the door hinge area.

GMC Service guy is not telling me that they're sure its a Body Control Module issue. Getting low voltage readings through the module even though the battery is fully charged. They've now got a new one on order to replace the one in the truck.

pgamboa · August 2, 2020

Check your harness connector in the door jamb. Did you notice this happen during a rain event? If water is intruding at the boot, it is likely getting a short as the main power and ground branch is at the bottom of the connector.

Also, this main power wire hits the driver window motor. So if you can check there for signs of corrosion, that might be it.

I’ll be also seen the large power/ground wires slightly severed where they could potentially ground out.

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carnau · August 2, 2020

On 7/30/2020 at 7:43 PM, rusty503 said:

That message means you lost power. Possible issues include bad ground(s), bad negative cable at the battery and possible broken wires in the door hinge area.

Ok, So part of this is exactly the problem. It's just very general which doesn't help you and that's no fault to @rusty503. He is exactly right.

I have run into this many of times on these vehicles since i am the electrical specialist at our dealership . Unfortunately I can't see the vehicle to test it so I am not going to say it is not a body control module failure. Because it absolutely could be. Do I think it is? No. But again I can't test it personally so I will not say they are definitely wrong. I will explain to you though why I believe it is wrong and what I think you should look for in case the BCM does not fix it. And please, If the BCM fixes it let us know. I really enjoy these types of problems and am interested.

The BCM uses voltage to keep it's memory (this is why it could be a bad BCM) When it falls below a certain voltage the Capacitors in the BCM discharge and this sends it into a relearn mode (telling you to roll the windows up and down, ect..) This is why I don't think the BCM is the problem.

I believe you have a voltage drop problem on one of your battery cables. This is actually an easy test and don't take long. Do a loaded voltage drop test across your battery cables. You need less than 0.1 volt across all of them even though 0.2 volts is acceptable.

If your voltage drop is higher on any of those cables or across the battery block (which is where I normally find the problem. Either a lug that's barely loose or a crack in the plate) replace it. The reason it's coming up with this is because during cranking the voltage drop is higher than normal. If you have (let's say) 2 volts of drop during cranking that means on a perfect battery your BCM would be seeing 10.8 volts and discharge the capacitors causing your vehicle to go into relearn mode.

Here is the catch. Your vehicle isn't doing it every day (which makes me think it is the battery block again..loose lug or crack) so you will not see the full drop. But anything higher than 0.20 needs to be replaced. This will fix your problem IF the BCM doens't fix it. Because again... I can't test the BCM myself. I just have my doubts about it... But it is possible.

If you need me to explain anything else, how to do the test or ect... Just quote me and ask so I get the message on my phone. If not i check here every few days. The Ad's are killing me and I don't really like to come here much anymore.

steve76t · November 2, 2020

On 8/2/2020 at 2:17 PM, carnau said:

Ok, So part of this is exactly the problem. It's just very general which doesn't help you and that's no fault to @rusty503. He is exactly right.

I have run into this many of times on these vehicles since i am the electrical specialist at our dealership . Unfortunately I can't see the vehicle to test it so I am not going to say it is not a body control module failure. Because it absolutely could be. Do I think it is? No. But again I can't test it personally so I will not say they are definitely wrong. I will explain to you though why I believe it is wrong and what I think you should look for in case the BCM does not fix it. And please, If the BCM fixes it let us know. I really enjoy these types of problems and am interested.

The BCM uses voltage to keep it's memory (this is why it could be a bad BCM) When it falls below a certain voltage the Capacitors in the BCM discharge and this sends it into a relearn mode (telling you to roll the windows up and down, ect..) This is why I don't think the BCM is the problem.

I believe you have a voltage drop problem on one of your battery cables. This is actually an easy test and don't take long. Do a loaded voltage drop test across your battery cables. You need less than 0.1 volt across all of them even though 0.2 volts is acceptable.

If your voltage drop is higher on any of those cables or across the battery block (which is where I normally find the problem. Either a lug that's barely loose or a crack in the plate) replace it. The reason it's coming up with this is because during cranking the voltage drop is higher than normal. If you have (let's say) 2 volts of drop during cranking that means on a perfect battery your BCM would be seeing 10.8 volts and discharge the capacitors causing your vehicle to go into relearn mode.

Here is the catch. Your vehicle isn't doing it every day (which makes me think it is the battery block again..loose lug or crack) so you will not see the full drop. But anything higher than 0.20 needs to be replaced. This will fix your problem IF the BCM doens't fix it. Because again... I can't test the BCM myself. I just have my doubts about it... But it is possible.

If you need me to explain anything else, how to do the test or ect... Just quote me and ask so I get the message on my phone. If not i check here every few days. The Ad's are killing me and I don't really like to come here much anymore.

Sorry, it's been a little while since I've gotten back to this thread, but my issues continue at this time. The new BCM did not fix my issues. Been to the dealership a few times since for them to continue to guess what's going on. Last time was last week. They told me the GM asked them to check a relay or connection in the passenger side door. However, after I got the truck back that's not what the service tech wrote in his description of work completed. Looks like he just "Cleared and Relearned Window Stop in BCM", checked all grounds under hood, and "load tested battery at 360 amps for 15 seconds. Passed at 10.4 volts".

Picked up my truck on Wednesday, ended up with the window message on my dash Friday AM & again Sunday afternoon. I'm trying to get ahold of my service rep again, he's a pain to get ahold of, and will give him a copy of your response to this. Lets see if it gets me anywhere...

pgamboa · November 6, 2020

Sorry, it's been a little while since I've gotten back to this thread, but my issues continue at this time. The new BCM did not fix my issues. Been to the dealership a few times since for them to continue to guess what's going on. Last time was last week. They told me the GM asked them to check a relay or connection in the passenger side door. However, after I got the truck back that's not what the service tech wrote in his description of work completed. Looks like he just "Cleared and Relearned Window Stop in BCM", checked all grounds under hood, and "load tested battery at 360 amps for 15 seconds. Passed at 10.4 volts".
Picked up my truck on Wednesday, ended up with the window message on my dash Friday AM & again Sunday afternoon. I'm trying to get ahold of my service rep again, he's a pain to get ahold of, and will give him a copy of your response to this. Lets see if it gets me anywhere...

At any time when you got the message, was there a rain event?

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steve76t · November 9, 2020

No, sorry no rain involved with this issue. Been very dry this year in Reno

steve76t · November 11, 2020

another update... Just had the truck into the dealership again to look at this ongoing issue. This time they checked for voltage drop across all battery cables, passed that with highest reading of 121mv. Retested the battery which was ok. Then was directed by GM TAC engineer to replace the driver's window motor as that is a common repair for this issue. Got my fingers crossed that this may be fixed now.

steve76t · November 19, 2020

Well, so far so good I guess. At the risk of jinxing myself, it's been 9 days since the dealership repaced the driver side window motor & I haven't yet seen my error pop back up. Could this actually be fixed now?

pgamboa · December 8, 2020

Well, so far so good I guess. At the risk of jinxing myself, it's been 9 days since the dealership repaced the driver side window motor & I haven't yet seen my error pop back up. Could this actually be fixed now?

The window motor is the where the main power branch (that usually triggers the “Open then close window” message) lands to. So if that motor is the issue, then maybe. Good luck!

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steve76t · December 8, 2020

14 hours ago, pgamboa said:

The window motor is the where the main power branch (that usually triggers the “Open then close window” message) lands to. So if that motor is the issue, then maybe. Good luck!

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still working & no new message for nearly a month now. So? I'm getting my hopes up that this issue may actually be resolved.