Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Well ******!  Error is back again.  At least I went 7 weeks before this error came back to haunt me.  Got another appointment scheduled at the dealership tomorrow morning.  Will this ever end ?  

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Any updates on this?

I'm seeing the same nearly daily now, running through the testing here and the voltage drops look good, boot in the door is dry. Thinking its my window motor as well since my drivers window moves up/down slower than the rest of the windows. Were you seeing the same prior to the window motor replacement?

Posted
5 hours ago, tiwillia said:

Any updates on this?

I'm seeing the same nearly daily now, running through the testing here and the voltage drops look good, boot in the door is dry. Thinking its my window motor as well since my drivers window moves up/down slower than the rest of the windows. Were you seeing the same prior to the window motor replacement?

No resolution yet.  After the last visit the dealership could not find what’s causing the issue this time.  Luckily it’s no longer as frequent as it was in the past, however it still happens every few weeks.  The service writer said they’ll need to bring in a GM field service engineer to look at it.  Don’t know when that’s going to happen & was told it might be a while before the engineer is available

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

For those that are interested my saga here continues...

 

As noted in early Feb, I was told that my dealership needs to bring in a GM Field Services Engineer to look at my truck.  Called a couple weeks later to see if anything had been scheduled yet & was told "nothing yet" and "we'll let you know as soon as we get an engineer scheduled to come in".  

Well, my Action Required message has become much more frequent again lately (4 times this week so far) so I called the dealership to see what their plans are with the engineer.  Their response?  Well evidently they cannot schedule an engineer to come in unless they have the vehicle onsite.  So now I have to leave my truck with them so they can get this on an engineers schedule.  AND it has to stay at the dealership until the engineer has come in to look and hopefully repair the truck.  Asked how long that'd take & was told it could be days to weeks, don't really know.  

They also said that since my truck is currently past its 36,000 warranty that they won't be able to give me a loaner vehicle until after the engineer looks at the vehicle and confirms this is a warranty issue.  Been to the dealership 10 times over the last year so how in the mother-effin'-hell can this not be???

Needless to say IF I ever get this fixed I'll never return to this dealership again! 

Edited by steve76t
Posted
On 2/3/2021 at 7:48 AM, tiwillia said:

Any updates on this?

I'm seeing the same nearly daily now, running through the testing here and the voltage drops look good, boot in the door is dry. Thinking its my window motor as well since my drivers window moves up/down slower than the rest of the windows. Were you seeing the same prior to the window motor replacement?

Curious, have you been able to get your issue fixed?  If so, what was done?

Posted

I've just learned to ignore it. It stopped appearing daily and now appears maybe once a week. If it gets bad again I'll take some time to check all my grounds and do some more troubleshooting.

Posted

Got another update for anyone that’s interested.  The bullshit is getting deeper & deeper too.  

 

Finally got the field services engineer in town to look at my truck.  He also took a look at the records & noted that GM’s Technical Assistance Center recommended that the window tint be removed from the front windows.  My dealership did not do that & never mentioned it to me.  Because of this the field services engineer won’t look at the truck until the tint is removed. 

 

Now the dealership is going to remove the tint.  They are supposed to get me something in writing stating that they’ll reimburse me for re-tinting the truck if this doesn’t fix my issue.  Complete bullshit I’m sure but I’m being told it’s the only way they can move forward with any attempts to fix it.  

  • Confused 1
Posted
1 hour ago, steve76t said:

Got another update for anyone that’s interested.  The bullshit is getting deeper & deeper too.  

 

Finally got the field services engineer in town to look at my truck.  He also took a look at the records & noted that GM’s Technical Assistance Center recommended that the window tint be removed from the front windows.  My dealership did not do that & never mentioned it to me.  Because of this the field services engineer won’t look at the truck until the tint is removed. 

 

Now the dealership is going to remove the tint.  They are supposed to get me something in writing stating that they’ll reimburse me for re-tinting the truck if this doesn’t fix my issue.  Complete bullshit I’m sure but I’m being told it’s the only way they can move forward with any attempts to fix it.  

That's some crazy stuff right there. This happened to me once, but that was because I was retrofitting my door handles, installing sound deadening and upgrading my speakers. I had disconnected the harness that went into the door a couple times. I ignored the 'suggestion' until I was done with the wiring, did the roll down/up and it never came back after that(did this last summer). Maybe check the connections for the door harness to make sure it's all plugged in nice an tight? 

 

Good luck!!

Posted
13 hours ago, jpinoy said:

That's some crazy stuff right there. This happened to me once, but that was because I was retrofitting my door handles, installing sound deadening and upgrading my speakers. I had disconnected the harness that went into the door a couple times. I ignored the 'suggestion' until I was done with the wiring, did the roll down/up and it never came back after that(did this last summer). Maybe check the connections for the door harness to make sure it's all plugged in nice an tight? 

 

Good luck!!

wish this was that easy.  This issue has been going on for over a year now & the battery has been replaced, BCM has been replaced, the window motor has been replaced, had computers reset, window stops reset multiple times, etc.  still this issue won't go away.  That's why they need a field services engineer flown in to look at the truck next

Posted
wish this was that easy.  This issue has been going on for over a year now & the battery has been replaced, BCM has been replaced, the window motor has been replaced, had computers reset, window stops reset multiple times, etc.  still this issue won't go away.  That's why they need a field services engineer flown in to look at the truck next
Dang... Hopefully the engineer can figure it out. Good luck!

Sent from my SM-N986U1 using Tapatalk

Posted

I wanted to share a picture of this driver side door harness that I’m working on. In my previous posts where I mentioned the issue could be harness related, this is exactly what/why I mentioned that. After inspecting this harness, I found 6 wires (including the large ground wire) with nicks on it. GM doesn’t wrap this section with tape. With the repeated open/close of a door, this area seems to wear. I don’t know how the wires get nicked but I see this all the time. If there is a short occurring here, this could be reason (or one of them) that triggers the open/close window message.


ff23e4b83c043a3f0c4a2e4c8782284c.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 3
Posted
On 4/9/2021 at 3:58 PM, pgamboa said:

I wanted to share a picture of this driver side door harness that I’m working on. In my previous posts where I mentioned the issue could be harness related, this is exactly what/why I mentioned that. After inspecting this harness, I found 6 wires (including the large ground wire) with nicks on it. GM doesn’t wrap this section with tape. With the repeated open/close of a door, this area seems to wear. I don’t know how the wires get nicked but I see this all the time. If there is a short occurring here, this could be reason (or one of them) that triggers the open/close window message.





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, I'll have to take a look at this to see what I find.  Won't help with the service department as they're not interested in what I think could be contributing factors, but I'll look anyway.  

 

Also, got my truck back today after it was sitting at the detailership for two weeks.  They did remove the tint as they mentioned last week, but only from the driver's side front window & not the passenger side.  Otherwise they didn't touch the truck.  They don't want to call the Field Service Engineer back until it's been confirmed that removing the tint didn't fix my issue.  I'm sure I'll be calling them later this week when the error message pops back up on my dash.  

 

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
On 4/9/2021 at 3:58 PM, pgamboa said:

I wanted to share a picture of this driver side door harness that I’m working on. In my previous posts where I mentioned the issue could be harness related, this is exactly what/why I mentioned that. After inspecting this harness, I found 6 wires (including the large ground wire) with nicks on it. GM doesn’t wrap this section with tape. With the repeated open/close of a door, this area seems to wear. I don’t know how the wires get nicked but I see this all the time. If there is a short occurring here, this could be reason (or one of them) that triggers the open/close window message.


ff23e4b83c043a3f0c4a2e4c8782284c.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Unplugged the door harness & see a tiny bit of green something at the bottom of the connector.  Could this be a little corrosion from getting wet?  Wonder if a little dielectric grease might be a viable solution to my problem?

 

BTW,  I did notice that the wires for my truck  are wrapped in a black cloth tape.  

E4663AD9-97E4-4BFB-9F1E-F466BEC72845.jpeg

Edited by steve76t

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...