2019+ Silverado and Sierra 1500 Alternator Upgrade (Install Process)

[KV14]

I am currently in the process of writing up a full audio system build document that includes a lot of details. The build document will include a lot of detailed explanations of the gear being installed and include setting up a MiniDSP with Dirac. It's taking me some time to put all the information together, so I figured I would share the alternator section of the document in this post.

 

You can add an upgraded alternator to these trucks, but there is are a few catches that I explain further into the installation process. 

 

Alternator Installation Hardware:

 

(1) Mechman High Output 250 Amp Alternator

• https://www.mechman.com/high-output-alternator-250-amp-silverado-tahoe-suburban-escalade-sierra/
  • Mechman currently does not show this alternator fits the 2019+ Silverado/Sierra pickup trucks. This does work, but see additional information further into the guide.

(1) Stinger Inline ANL Fuse Holder (For Alternator)

• https://stingerelectronics.com/collections/distribution-blocks/products/inline-anl-fuse-holder

(1)  Airaid Junior Air Intake System

• https://www.airaid.com/201-782-junior-air-intake-system

(5) Stinger SHW10B 1/0GA Per Foot

(5) Stinger SHW10C 1/0GA Per Foot

(1) 1/0GA compact ring terminal

• Need a small ring terminal to use the factory ground bracket with the sensor installed

(2) 1/0GA ring terminal

• Needed for power and ground connections

(1) 300 Amp ANL Fuse

(1) Roll of heat tape

(1) Roll of 1/2" braided wire sleeve

(6) 1" Heat shrink tubing at 3" in length

(1) Custom built under hood fuse holder

• 1/8" x 2" Hillman Aluminum Solid Flat Model #: 11303 from Menards

 

 

Install Process:

 

My factory 2019 GMC Sierra Denali 1500 6.2L shipped with a 170 amp alternator. My past 2014 GMC Sierra had less alternator amperage and I could notice the power drop with only subwoofers added, so for my new system build I was going even bigger and I did not want any protentional power loss. I wanted higher wattage at both idle and normal driving. Also, since I invested so much time and money into my audio system it's worth the additional cost of adding some extra amperage. My new audio system's total max watts is 2,200. Some people may have a much higher watt audio system and the 250 may not be big enough, but adding the 250 will still give you an additional 80 amps, which is more than the factory. GM offered a 220 amp alternator upgrade kit for these trucks, but it would exceed the factory fuse rating, so my guess is it required some type of OEM wiring harness. This wasn't worth my investigation because I wanted more amperage then 220 amps. At this point, I knew I needed to call Mechman to discuss my alternator upgrade needs.

 

After talking to Mechman they informed me my truck had a stretch belt, which limited my alternator amperage selection to 250 amps. At the moment this is the highest amperage these trucks can go per Mechman (As of 9/11/2020). The reason is the higher amperage alternators require a smaller pulley, so the alternator can spin faster to create more amperage. With a stretch belt, there is no extra play for a smaller pulley because you do not have a belt tensioner. The primary issue I ran into was Mechman did not know if the 250 amp alternator would function in my 2019 GMC Sierra 1500 Denali because of the smart charging system. At this time they had no confirmation that any of the 2019+ GM Silverado/Sierra 1500s would work. Mechman gave me the option to give the installation a try and if it didn't work they would allow me to return the alternator without any issue. I knew if this did not work I would be out all the wiring upgrade, air intake costs, and my time. I choose to take the gamble. The good news is I can confirm the alternator does work in the 2019+ GM Silverado/Sierra 1500s, but I do have a little bad news. For some reason GM decided on these trucks they would make an air intake system that stretches clear across the front side of the motor in a huge plastic box, which is probably for some extra emissions reduction. The main issue is they decided to add the support bracket for this large air intake box to the factory alternator. Mechman's alternators are not purpose-built for this truck generation and they sent me one for the 2014-2018 model year thinking it would match up just fine. The alternator mounting bolts and pulley size is correct, but it is missing this mounting bracket. I eliminated this factory air intake issue by choosing to install an Airaid Junior Air Intake System.  This system is the least expensive out of all air intake upgrades and it removes the factory large plastic intake box but leaves the factory filter enclosure. I wasn't concerned about the air filter enclosure. I'm not going to go into my reasons for that. You do get a nice cleanable air filter that fits in the factory enclosure.

 

The factory alternator wiring does not have the correct wire gauge and fuse to support a 250 amp alternator from Mechman. This requires upgrading all the wiring between the alternator and the battery. This includes positive and negative wires. I used Stinger wiring for my audio upgrade, so I decided to use the same wire and fuse block for this alternator upgrade. This wire is Stinger 1/0 gauge wire and Stingers inline ANL fuse holder. The fuse holder is added to protect the wire and you in the event of a crash, so make sure you add a fuse holder.  If you are using this wire make sure you use a 300 amp fuse on this alternator because the alternator can exceed 250 amps, which will blow a 250 amp fuse. Also, I would recommend having a spare 300 amp fuse and installation tool in your glove box in case something ever happens and you needed to change out the fuse. These are not fuses you can get at your local hardware stores.

 

 

WARNING: If you are using a different 1/0 gauge wire, make sure the wire is rated to handle at least 300 amps.

 

WARNING: Do not just upgrade the positive wire and not the negative. You can cause major damage or even a fire.

 

 

I'm sure at this point you are ready to read about the installation and see some pictures.

 

To start I want to show the factory alternator with the air intake box above, so you can see the mounting bracket that comes off the factory air intake.

 

 

Here is a side by side comparison of the two alternators. The left is the Mechman alternator and the right is the factory alternator. You can notice the factory air box bracket more clearly in this picture.

 

 

Your first step in removing the alternator is removing the stretch belt. I tried to look up some easy removal tools for the stretch belt, but I couldn't find any information. I tried buying Lisle Stretch Belt Remover/Installation tool and it did not work.  My recommendation is to buy or have some plastic door/trim panel pry tools. I used these to remove the belt. Circle 1 works to remove the belt. I used the factory alternator bolt to remove the belt. The removal can be done above the engine. Circle 2 works to install the belt. Mechman's alternator pulley bolt will not work to install the belt because the bolt spins freely and will not move the belt. You need to use on the pulley bolt where the circle 2 is shown. A large breaker bar will help here. You will need to remove the bottom front lower engine splash shield to reach the bolt and slide on the belt. I got the belt most the way on from the bottom and went above the engine and finished spinning the belt using the same bolt/breaker bar while pushing the belt onto the upper right pulley. If you try doing the entire install from the bottom the belt will not seat correctly. Once you pull the belt you will need to remove the radiator cooling fan that sits in front of the alternator to remove the bottom alternator bolt. The fan is installed with three torx screws.

 

 

I created a custom fuse block holder out of aluminum to hold both my fuse blocks. I used 2" wide aluminum from Menards, which does allow you to bend without heat. If you choose to do this same mounting location it works great and you can use the mounting pin. You will need to expand/cut the plastic top and base where the 1/0 gauge wires run through. 

 

I added two 90-degree bends on the engine side of the aluminum fuse block mounting bracket to level out the bracket and give room for the 1/0 gauge wires to run underneath. The main thing to take into consideration is the negative battery terminal. You have to mount these fuse blocks to still allow the ability to disconnect the negative battery lead during maintenance. I wanted to have these fuse blocks run in parallel, but using 4" wide aluminum would cover up the ground and require the fuse blocks to be removed to connect the ground wire.

 

I ran a 1/0 gauge wire back to my audio system's distribution block and ran another 1/0 gauge wire over to my alternator. 

 

Note 1: The factory power wire on the alternator needs to be disconnected and not used.

 

Note 2: The alternator will come with a 1/0 gauge terminal you can use for the wire, so you do not need any terminal for this wire back to the fuse block. You will need a standard gauge battery terminal connector to connect the fuse holder to the factory mounting location. 

 

Note 3: I used some braided wire sleeve with heat shrink for look and added heat resistant tape on both my ground and positive wires that are near the engine. I recommend adding at least the heat tape to protect the rubber shielding on your wires from potentially melting.

 

 

You need to run your own 1/0 gauge negative wire from the alternator and use one of the alternators mounting bolt's to hold the 1/0 ring terminal. The ring terminal that came with the 1/0 gauge wiring kit for my amplifier did not have a large enough hole for the alternator mounting bolt. I use a step bit to increase the hole size to fit snug around the bolt. After you get the negative wire ran from the alternator bolt you need to make sure you remove the factory ground wire and connect the new 1/0 gauge wire directly to the mounting point the factory wire installed. I had a smaller 1/0 gauge ring terminal that worked perfectly. 

 

Note: Do not connect the factory ground and alternator ground or it may throw off the smart charging system. You need to have only the new 1/0 gauge ground wire connected to the negative battery lead with the same factory connector that holds the sensor.

 

 

This picture shows me adding some heat shrink to the factory's positive and negative wires. I choose to leave the factory positive and negative wires under the hood. My goal is to remove this system before I trade the truck in for a newer model year, so if this alternator works with that model year I will be putting the factory alternator back into the truck.

 

 

Here is a picture of me securing the factory power wire. I secured the ground wire near the firewall and there isn't an easy way to take a picture.

 

 

Since I choose to add the same fuse blocks for my audio and amplifier I wanted to label both fuse blocks. Below are a few pictures of each fuse block being labeled. I added the label to the cover and the fuse mounting point. I did this just in case the covers got installed incorrectly.

 

 

 

Here are the final pictures of the installation of the Mechman alternator and the Airaid Junior.

 

 

Edited September 13, 2020 by KV14

[DanHc]

Wow what setup are you doing as in woofers? I’ve actually been wanting to upgrade my alt but mechman doesn’t show that it will work on 19. I’m thinking on doing a blow through setup 

[KV14]

12 hours ago, DanHc said:

Wow what setup are you doing as in woofers? I’ve actually been wanting to upgrade my alt but mechman doesn’t show that it will work on 19. I’m thinking on doing a blow through setup 

If you give Mechman a call they can get you one ordered. It's the same part number as the alternator for 2014-2018, so you could order it online without calling as well.

 

I built a custom ported under the seat enclosure that holds two JL Audio 10TW3s. I have the box tuned down to 32 Hz and it hits. You can feel the kick through the seat and fills the cab with a lot of bass. 

 

I trade my trucks to often to consider a blow through setup. Plus, the bass that these two 10" JL's give off with a ported box hits hard enough for all my needs.

 

Best of luck on the blow through setup!

Edited September 14, 2020 by KV14

[DanHc]

1 hour ago, KV14 said:

If you give Mechman a call they can get you one ordered. It's the same part number as the alternator for 2014-2018, so you could order it online without calling as well.

 

I built a custom ported under the seat enclosure that holds two JL Audio 10TW3s. I have the box tuned down to 32 Hz and it hits. You can feel the kick through the seat and fills the cab with a lot of bass. 

 

I trade my trucks to often to consider a blow through setup. Plus, the bass that these two 10" JL's give off with a ported box hits hard enough for all my needs.

 

Best of luck on the blow through setup!

Gotcha! Thanks! And I bet it does sound good but I love bass I had 4 10w6 sealed under the seats but now I’m going with 2 JL 13w7 in a 4th order blow through. 

[KV14]

35 minutes ago, DanHc said:

Gotcha! Thanks! And I bet it does sound good but I love bass I had 4 10w6 sealed under the seats but now I’m going with 2 JL 13w7 in a 4th order blow through. 

That will certainly slam!

 

I built a sealed dual JL 10TW3 box when I had my 2014 Sierra and it had decent bass. I knew these newer body 2019 had more rear-seat room, so I spend triple the amount of time designing this ported enclosure and it was worth every second.

 

[LA_33]

On 9/12/2020 at 10:19 AM, KV14 said:

I am currently in the process of writing up a full audio system build document that includes a lot of details. The build document will include a lot of detailed explanations of the gear being installed and include setting up a MiniDSP with Dirac. It's taking me some time to put all the information together, so I figured I would share the alternator section of the document in this post.

 

You can add an upgraded alternator to these trucks, but there is are a few catches that I explain further into the installation process. 

 

Alternator Installation Hardware:

 

(1) Mechman High Output 250 Amp Alternator

• https://www.mechman.com/high-output-alternator-250-amp-silverado-tahoe-suburban-escalade-sierra/
  • Mechman currently does not show this alternator fits the 2019+ Silverado/Sierra pickup trucks. This does work, but see additional information further into the guide.

(1) Stinger Inline ANL Fuse Holder (For Alternator)

• https://stingerelectronics.com/collections/distribution-blocks/products/inline-anl-fuse-holder

(1)  Airaid Junior Air Intake System

• https://www.airaid.com/201-782-junior-air-intake-system

(5) Stinger SHW10B 1/0GA Per Foot

(5) Stinger SHW10C 1/0GA Per Foot

(1) 1/0GA compact ring terminal

• Need a small ring terminal to use the factory ground bracket with the sensor installed

(2) 1/0GA ring terminal

• Needed for power and ground connections

(1) 300 Amp ANL Fuse

(1) Roll of heat tape

(1) Roll of 1/2" braided wire sleeve

(6) 1" Heat shrink tubing at 3" in length

(1) Custom built under hood fuse holder

• 1/8" x 2" Hillman Aluminum Solid Flat Model #: 11303 from Menards

 

 

Install Process:

 

My factory 2019 GMC Sierra Denali 1500 6.2L shipped with a 170 amp alternator. My past 2014 GMC Sierra had less alternator amperage and I could notice the power drop with only subwoofers added, so for my new system build I was going even bigger and I did not want any protentional power loss. I wanted higher wattage at both idle and normal driving. Also, since I invested so much time and money into my audio system it's worth the additional cost of adding some extra amperage. My new audio system's total max watts is 2,200. Some people may have a much higher watt audio system and the 250 may not be big enough, but adding the 250 will still give you an additional 80 amps, which is more than the factory. GM offered a 220 amp alternator upgrade kit for these trucks, but it would exceed the factory fuse rating, so my guess is it required some type of OEM wiring harness. This wasn't worth my investigation because I wanted more amperage then 220 amps. At this point, I knew I needed to call Mechman to discuss my alternator upgrade needs.

 

After talking to Mechman they informed me my truck had a stretch belt, which limited my alternator amperage selection to 250 amps. At the moment this is the highest amperage these trucks can go per Mechman (As of 9/11/2020). The reason is the higher amperage alternators require a smaller pulley, so the alternator can spin faster to create more amperage. With a stretch belt, there is no extra play for a smaller pulley because you do not have a belt tensioner. The primary issue I ran into was Mechman did not know if the 250 amp alternator would function in my 2019 GMC Sierra 1500 Denali because of the smart charging system. At this time they had no confirmation that any of the 2019+ GM Silverado/Sierra 1500s would work. Mechman gave me the option to give the installation a try and if it didn't work they would allow me to return the alternator without any issue. I knew if this did not work I would be out all the wiring upgrade, air intake costs, and my time. I choose to take the gamble. The good news is I can confirm the alternator does work in the 2019+ GM Silverado/Sierra 1500s, but I do have a little bad news. For some reason GM decided on these trucks they would make an air intake system that stretches clear across the front side of the motor in a huge plastic box, which is probably for some extra emissions reduction. The main issue is they decided to add the support bracket for this large air intake box to the factory alternator. Mechman's alternators are not purpose-built for this truck generation and they sent me one for the 2014-2018 model year thinking it would match up just fine. The alternator mounting bolts and pulley size is correct, but it is missing this mounting bracket. I eliminated this factory air intake issue by choosing to install an Airaid Junior Air Intake System.  This system is the least expensive out of all air intake upgrades and it removes the factory large plastic intake box but leaves the factory filter enclosure. I wasn't concerned about the air filter enclosure. I'm not going to go into my reasons for that. You do get a nice cleanable air filter that fits in the factory enclosure.

 

The factory alternator wiring does not have the correct wire gauge and fuse to support a 250 amp alternator from Mechman. This requires upgrading all the wiring between the alternator and the battery. This includes positive and negative wires. I used Stinger wiring for my audio upgrade, so I decided to use the same wire and fuse block for this alternator upgrade. This wire is Stinger 1/0 gauge wire and Stingers inline ANL fuse holder. The fuse holder is added to protect the wire and you in the event of a crash, so make sure you add a fuse holder.  If you are using this wire make sure you use a 300 amp fuse on this alternator because the alternator can exceed 250 amps, which will blow a 250 amp fuse. Also, I would recommend having a spare 300 amp fuse and installation tool in your glove box in case something ever happens and you needed to change out the fuse. These are not fuses you can get at your local hardware stores.

 

 

WARNING: If you are using a different 1/0 gauge wire, make sure the wire is rated to handle at least 300 amps.

 

WARNING: Do not just upgrade the positive wire and not the negative. You can cause major damage or even a fire.

 

 

I'm sure at this point you are ready to read about the installation and see some pictures.

 

To start I want to show the factory alternator with the air intake box above, so you can see the mounting bracket that comes off the factory air intake.

 

 

Here is a side by side comparison of the two alternators. The left is the Mechman alternator and the right is the factory alternator. You can notice the factory air box bracket more clearly in this picture.

 

 

Your first step in removing the alternator is removing the stretch belt. I tried to look up some easy removal tools for the stretch belt, but I couldn't find any information. I tried buying Lisle Stretch Belt Remover/Installation tool and it did not work.  My recommendation is to buy or have some plastic door/trim panel pry tools. I used these to remove the belt. Circle 1 works to remove the belt. I used the factory alternator bolt to remove the belt. The removal can be done above the engine. Circle 2 works to install the belt. Mechman's alternator pulley bolt will not work to install the belt because the bolt spins freely and will not move the belt. You need to use on the pulley bolt where the circle 2 is shown. A large breaker bar will help here. You will need to remove the bottom front lower engine splash shield to reach the bolt and slide on the belt. I got the belt most the way on from the bottom and went above the engine and finished spinning the belt using the same bolt/breaker bar while pushing the belt onto the upper right pulley. If you try doing the entire install from the bottom the belt will not seat correctly. Once you pull the belt you will need to remove the radiator cooling fan that sits in front of the alternator to remove the bottom alternator bolt. The fan is installed with three torx screws.

 

 

I created a custom fuse block holder out of aluminum to hold both my fuse blocks. I used 2" wide aluminum from Menards, which does allow you to bend without heat. If you choose to do this same mounting location it works great and you can use the mounting pin. You will need to expand/cut the plastic top and base where the 1/0 gauge wires run through. 

 

I added two 90-degree bends on the engine side of the aluminum fuse block mounting bracket to level out the bracket and give room for the 1/0 gauge wires to run underneath. The main thing to take into consideration is the negative battery terminal. You have to mount these fuse blocks to still allow the ability to disconnect the negative battery lead during maintenance. I wanted to have these fuse blocks run in parallel, but using 4" wide aluminum would cover up the ground and require the fuse blocks to be removed to connect the ground wire.

 

I ran a 1/0 gauge wire back to my audio system's distribution block and ran another 1/0 gauge wire over to my alternator. 

 

Note 1: The factory power wire on the alternator needs to be disconnected and not used.

 

Note 2: The alternator will come with a 1/0 gauge terminal you can use for the wire, so you do not need any terminal for this wire back to the fuse block. You will need a standard gauge battery terminal connector to connect the fuse holder to the factory mounting location. 

 

Note 3: I used some braided wire sleeve with heat shrink for look and added heat resistant tape on both my ground and positive wires that are near the engine. I recommend adding at least the heat tape to protect the rubber shielding on your wires from potentially melting.

 

 

You need to run your own 1/0 gauge negative wire from the alternator and use one of the alternators mounting bolt's to hold the 1/0 ring terminal. The ring terminal that came with the 1/0 gauge wiring kit for my amplifier did not have a large enough hole for the alternator mounting bolt. I use a step bit to increase the hole size to fit snug around the bolt. After you get the negative wire ran from the alternator bolt you need to make sure you remove the factory ground wire and connect the new 1/0 gauge wire directly to the mounting point the factory wire installed. I had a smaller 1/0 gauge ring terminal that worked perfectly. 

 

Note: Do not connect the factory ground and alternator ground or it may throw off the smart charging system. You need to have only the new 1/0 gauge ground wire connected to the negative battery lead with the same factory connector that holds the sensor.

 

 

This picture shows me adding some heat shrink to the factory's positive and negative wires. I choose to leave the factory positive and negative wires under the hood. My goal is to remove this system before I trade the truck in for a newer model year, so if this alternator works with that model year I will be putting the factory alternator back into the truck.

 

 

Here is a picture of me securing the factory power wire. I secured the ground wire near the firewall and there isn't an easy way to take a picture.

 

 

Since I choose to add the same fuse blocks for my audio and amplifier I wanted to label both fuse blocks. Below are a few pictures of each fuse block being labeled. I added the label to the cover and the fuse mounting point. I did this just in case the covers got installed incorrectly.

 

 

 

Here are the final pictures of the installation of the Mechman alternator and the Airaid Junior.

 

 

Thanks for the write-up.  Very informative.

 

At full tilt, what is the voltage?

[KV14]

On 10/6/2020 at 2:59 PM, LA_33 said:

Thanks for the write-up.  Very informative.

 

At full tilt, what is the voltage?

Your welcome!

 

The voltage on the dash is similar to the stock. You will not notice any difference from that perspective.

[LA_33]

16 hours ago, KV14 said:

Your welcome!

 

The voltage on the dash is similar to the stock. You will not notice any difference from that perspective.

The voltage at the sub amp sits at 13.8-13.9 volts at full tilt.  Checking it with volt meter.  I am pushing a little over 2000 watts with stock alternator right now with zero trouble.  But want to upgrade to a bigger amp and subs.

[KV14]

4 hours ago, LA_33 said:

The voltage at the sub amp sits at 13.8-13.9 volts at full tilt.  Checking it with volt meter.  I am pushing a little over 2000 watts with stock alternator right now with zero trouble.  But want to upgrade to a bigger amp and subs.

You will not see the DC voltage of an aftermarket alternator increase much differently than a factory alternator. What you are looking for is how much DC amperage you are using and do you need more. You can find some ways listed on the internet to help you determine this information. 

 

Your current 2000 watt draw may seem fine, but you could still be causing an amperage bottleneck at the alternator without noticing. It's possible you not getting the full potential out of your amplifier.

 

I used some paper calculations to determine how much extra amperage I needed over the factory alternator. If you are pushing 2000 watts with a nominal DC voltage of 13.5v, you have added about 148 amps (2000 / 13.5) of demand to the electrical system. If you tested the rest of your vehicle's amperage draw you can determine how many amps you need. I just used my factor alternator's max amperage and knew it had a little extra headroom. My truck came stock with 170 amp alternator and my audio system could potentially pull an additional 162 amps. That put me at needing potentially 332 amps with everything maxed out. Vehicles alternators have some headroom and the amplifier may not be maxed out, so purchasing a 250 amp alternator may provide all the amperage needed or it will at least still improve the total amperage output over the stock alternator. We can't get any bigger than a 250 amp alternator, so determining a need more then 250 amps will not be an advantage.

 

Hope that helps you make your determination.
 

Edited October 8, 2020 by KV14

[LA_33]

31 minutes ago, KV14 said:

You will not see the DC voltage of an aftermarket alternator increase much differently than a factory alternator. What you are looking for is how much DC amperage you are using and do you need more. You can find some ways listed on the internet to help you determine this information. 

 

Your current 2000 watt draw may seem fine, but you could still be causing an amperage bottleneck at the alternator without noticing. It's possible you not getting the full potential out of your amplifier.

 

I used some paper calculations to determine how much extra amperage I needed over the factory alternator. If you are pushing 2000 watts with a nominal DC voltage of 13.5v, you have added about 148 amps (2000 / 13.5) of demand to the electrical system. If you tested the rest of your vehicle's amperage draw you can determine how many amps you need. I just used my factor alternator's max amperage and knew it had a little extra headroom. My truck came stock with 170 amp alternator and my audio system could potentially pull an additional 162 amps. That put me at needing potentially 332 amps with everything maxed out. Vehicles alternators have some headroom and the amplifier may not be maxed out, so purchasing a 250 amp alternator may provide all the amperage needed or it will at least still improve the total amperage output over the stock alternator. We can't get any bigger than a 250 amp alternator, so determining a need more then 250 amps will not be an advantage.

 

Hope that helps you make your determination.
 

Awesome!  I understand.  Maybe in the next year Mechman will come out with an alternator bigger than a 250 to fit our trucks.  I will be upgrading soon.

 

Have you done any research on the Antigravity lithium batteries.  They make a Group 94R battery.  It's expensive!  The auto start/stop feature must be bypassed, but I was trying to figure out if this battery would work.  I understand we have an 80ah stock AGM battery, but they make a 60ah lithium battery which is approximately like a 110ah AGM.  Just curious to see your thoughts on this?

[KV14]

37 minutes ago, LA_33 said:

Awesome!  I understand.  Maybe in the next year Mechman will come out with an alternator bigger than a 250 to fit our trucks.  I will be upgrading soon.

 

Have you done any research on the Antigravity lithium batteries.  They make a Group 94R battery.  It's expensive!  The auto start/stop feature must be bypassed, but I was trying to figure out if this battery would work.  I understand we have an 80ah stock AGM battery, but they make a 60ah lithium battery which is approximately like a 110ah AGM.  Just curious to see your thoughts on this?

It would be nice if they do, but I'm not sure if Mechman or any other aftermarket brand alternator will come out with something too much bigger than a 250 because of the stretch belt on these trucks. The way they can get the higher amperage with the alternator is by going with a smaller pully to get the alternator spinning faster. The stretch belt forces aftermarket manufacturers to use the stock pully size on these alternators, which restricts the ability to get it spinning faster. Some manufactures may find a way to get a little more amperage with the stock pully, but only time will tell on that.

 

I have not done any research on aftermarket batteries. My goal was to get the extra alternator amperage to my amplifiers and call it good.

 

[Ozzy1989]

Hello I need your help

[Ozzy1989]

Do you have Instagram or Facebook please  

[Nasir222]

On 9/14/2020 at 12:04 PM, DanHc said:

Gotcha! Thanks! And I bet it does sound good but I love bass I had 4 10w6 sealed under the seats but now I’m going with 2 JL 13w7 in a 4th order blow through. 

Do you have pics posted of your subs+enclosure? I have been told by too many people on forums that even though I have my rear seats raised in my 17" Crew Cab, that I won't have enough air space for dual 12s. I have been searching everywhere for a blueprint or plans for these trucks underseat subwoofer enclosures. I figure I can start there for designing a enclosure. 

[KV14]

On 12/1/2020 at 7:43 AM, Ozzy1989 said:

Do you have Instagram or Facebook please  

Sorry for the late response. I haven't been on here in a while, and I never received any alerts of any new posts. My account has been acting a little strange. Feel free to direct message me on here if you have any questions.