Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So 2017 gmc elevation. 5.3 4x4 DOD delete before I put wheels and tires I was getting around 22-19 mpg WITH deleted DOD. Now have 305/55/20 nitto’s AT Now getting 20-17 mpg.  Ride did get stiff but not as bad as my 96 z71 with 35/12.5/15.  Anybody else getting the same with the DOD delete 

Posted

I’m guessing your new tires and wheels are heavier than your old ones which is causing a significant drop in mpg’s. You are running 8 cyl all the time now rather than 4 on occasion so of course your mileage will drop simply due to that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
3 hours ago, GMC_eleavtion17 said:

So 2017 gmc elevation. 5.3 4x4 DOD delete before I put wheels and tires I was getting around 22-19 mpg WITH deleted DOD. Now have 305/55/20 nitto’s AT Now getting 20-17 mpg.  Ride did get stiff but not as bad as my 96 z71 with 35/12.5/15.  Anybody else getting the same with the DOD delete 

Curious. What tire was being used to get 22-19 mpg?

Posted

So...you put a wider, more aggressive and larger diameter AT tire, that depending on which one you picked (P or LT) is 11-21 pounds heavier per tire and then are wondering why you've lost MPG? 

 

Have you gotten something like a Hypertech or Superchips device to re-calibrate your speedometer as well for accurate readings with the larger diameter tires?  31.9" stock vs 33" that's 2.5mph so when it reads 60mph on the dash, you are really doing 62.5mph.  

  • Like 2
Posted
2 minutes ago, newdude said:

So...you put a wider, more aggressive and larger diameter AT tire, that depending on which one you picked (P or LT) is 11-21 pounds heavier per tire and then are wondering why you've lost MPG? 

 

Have you gotten something like a Hypertech or Superchips device to re-calibrate your speedometer as well for accurate readings with the larger diameter tires?  31.9" stock vs 33" that's 2.5mph so when it reads 60mph on the dash, you are really doing 62.5mph.  

So I set the table and you stole my steak? 

:crackup:

 

Yea, weight and tread squirm eat fuel. And it's not just the extra mass spinning up and down but you put your foot into it further to get the same 'feeling' of acceleration. It sits a hair higher and outside the trucks built in aero effects package. It's like change in your pocket. Collect enough of it and you have a dollar. ? 

  • Like 1
Posted
4 hours ago, GMC_eleavtion17 said:

 Anybody else getting the same with the DOD delete 

I see no one has addressed the second question. Perhaps a question mark would have highlighted it more. Just say' n. 

 

The effectiveness of DOD is 100% user defined. For guys whose normal driving is 75 mph they never notice it's effects because it is almost never on. For guys like me that travel inside it's working parameters loosing it has a large impact on fuel efficiency.  

Posted
2 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

I see no one has addressed the second question. Perhaps a question mark would have highlighted it more. Just say' n. 

 

The effectiveness of DOD is 100% user defined. For guys whose normal driving is 75 mph they never notice it's effects because it is almost never on. For guys like me that travel inside it's working parameters loosing it has a large impact on fuel efficiency.  

I rather loose it then destroy a motor with DOD.  

Posted
1 hour ago, GMC_eleavtion17 said:

I rather loose it then destroy a motor with DOD.  

I'm sorry I thought you asked a question and wanted some feed back on that topic. 

I guess you were just baiting.

My mistake

 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Yes. You need to check out that thing, and the hub further.
    • Would this be normal or a worn CV Shaft? 51K miles 3.5" lift? Boots are intact and no visible leaks showing. Attached is a the video I took. Thanks     https://youtu.be/ZnW7PPRmjJY?feature=shared    
    • If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...