Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I tried doing the thermostat flip but couldn't get it out, the c clip came out ok but there was some corrosion stopping the guts coming out. Want to buy a new complete replacement with the block to swap out but can't seem to find the part listed.

 

Anyone have a parts diagram? Can only find lists on the parts sites.

 

Sent from my SM-A705W using Tapatalk

 

 

Posted

Take you VIN to the dealership and he will order the correct part. 

Was hoping to avoid that as it's a 45 minute drive to dealership so if I can't do any other way I guess it will have to wait for another couple of weeks.


Sent from my SM-A705W using Tapatalk

Posted

I had the same issue when I did the "flip" on mine. Remove it from the truck, spray some penetration fluid on the C-Clip area, remove the C-clip & take pliers & twist the aluminum top using the standing boss on tip. It will come loose & out. Before assembling, clean top & housing block with some Scotch Brite, run the C-Clip over some fine sand paper to remove any corrosion or just replace it. Put it back together BUT make sure the C-clip goes back into the groove all the way. If you don't , others have had it pop back out. Spin the C-Clip in the home position to verify it's in the groove good. Then reinstall on the transmission.

 

Here's a link to what I found for P/N https://www.gmpartsnow.com/oem-parts/gm-tube-assembly-84036742?c=Zz1jb29saW5nLXN5c3RlbSZzPXRyYW5zLW9pbC1jb29sZXImbD0xJm49QXNzZW1ibGllcyBQYWdlJmE9Y2hldnJvbGV0Jm89c2lsdmVyYWRvLTE1MDAmeT0yMDE3JnQ9bHR6JmU9NS0zbC12OC1nYXM%3D

Posted
32 minutes ago, rav3 said:

I had the same issue when I did the "flip" on mine. Remove it from the truck, spray some penetration fluid on the C-Clip area, remove the C-clip & take pliers & twist the aluminum top using the standing boss on tip. It will come loose & out. Before assembling, clean top & housing block with some Scotch Brite, run the C-Clip over some fine sand paper to remove any corrosion or just replace it. Put it back together BUT make sure the C-clip goes back into the groove all the way. If you don't , others have had it pop back out. Spin the C-Clip in the home position to verify it's in the groove good. Then reinstall on the transmission.

 

Here's a link to what I found for P/N https://www.gmpartsnow.com/oem-parts/gm-tube-assembly-84036742?c=Zz1jb29saW5nLXN5c3RlbSZzPXRyYW5zLW9pbC1jb29sZXImbD0xJm49QXNzZW1ibGllcyBQYWdlJmE9Y2hldnJvbGV0Jm89c2lsdmVyYWRvLTE1MDAmeT0yMDE3JnQ9bHR6JmU9NS0zbC12OC1nYXM%3D

If the OP destroys the original trying to "fix" it he'll really be without a paddle. (or a truck for that matter too.)

Posted (edited)

This is what I bought for my 2019 Tahoe 6L80. I wanted to have two on hand just in case, so I wouldn't have the vehicle out of commission. My personal recommendation would be to do the thermostat exchange on a "cold" vehicle, so first thing in the morning after sitting overnight. This is just my paranoid self, I would rather work on materials and deal with tightening/torque specs at amb vs elevated temps.

 

By-Pass Valve – 48.76 -

13511136

6 speed.

https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-by-pass-valve-13511136/?c=Zz1jb29saW5nLXN5c3RlbSZzPXRyYW5zLW9pbC1jb29sZXImaT1HQzE1MTE1NSZyPTMmYT1jaGV2cm9sZXQmbz10YWhvZSZ5PTIwMTkmdD1sdCZlPTUtM2wtdjgtZmxleA%3D%3D

 

Found it on Ebay from a local vendor for under $35 IIRC

Edited by 14burrito
Posted
19 minutes ago, It's Tim said:

If the OP destroys the original trying to "fix" it he'll really be without a paddle. (or a truck for that matter too.)

This statement is true for any owner making this modification and only proceed depending on their confidence level & tools available to them. I wouldn't recommend it to a novice that does NOT have the tools or confidence to preform this modification. All I was doing was sharing a similar situation that I experienced hoping that iy would help him. If he wants to buy a spare back up set, that's surly his option. That's why I gave a link for the part that I thought he was searching for. 

Posted
This statement is true for any owner making this modification and only proceed depending on their confidence level & tools available to them. I wouldn't recommend it to a novice that does NOT have the tools or confidence to preform this modification. All I was doing was sharing a similar situation that I experienced hoping that iy would help him. If he wants to buy a spare back up set, that's surly his option. That's why I gave a link for the part that I thought he was searching for. 
Thanks for the info. I did soak it with penetrating fluid but didn't have the time to leave soaking for a few hours so would rather have the spare & yes the c clip was a bugger to get seated properly.

Now I know what the parts site calls it 'bypass valve' so that should help with sourcing, thanks very much.


Sent from my SM-A705W using Tapatalk

Posted
3 hours ago, Mozzer said:

Was hoping to avoid that as it's a 45 minute drive to dealership so if I can't do any other way I guess it will have to wait for another couple of weeks.


Sent from my SM-A705W using Tapatalk
 

Understood. I found when I did mine that there is more than one depending on year and VIN. The hoses attach by a few different means. Mine didn't use clips but a plate and bolt setup. VIN is important. A random part number may not work. That was/is my concern. 

Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, Mozzer said:

 

I tried doing the thermostat flip but couldn't get it out, the c clip came out ok but there was some corrosion stopping the guts coming out. Want to buy a new complete replacement with the block to swap out but can't seem to find the part listed.

 

Anyone have a parts diagram? Can only find lists on the parts sites.

 

Sent from my SM-A705W using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

 

Depends on how the lines are attached to the thermostat.  When you removed the thermostat, did the lines un-bolt from it with a plate holding them down?  Or were the lines quick connected into the thermostat? 

Edited by newdude
Posted
Understood. I found when I did mine that there is more than one depending on year and VIN. The hoses attach by a few different means. Mine didn't use clips but a plate and bolt setup. VIN is important. A random part number may not work. That was/is my concern. 
Ok, thanks very much for the feedback.

Sent from my SM-A705W using Tapatalk

Posted
2 hours ago, Mozzer said:

Thanks for the info. I did soak it with penetrating fluid but didn't have the time to leave soaking for a few hours so would rather have the spare & yes the c clip was a bugger to get seated properly.

Now I know what the parts site calls it 'bypass valve' so that should help with sourcing, thanks very much.


Sent from my SM-A705W using Tapatalk
 

 

Just double replying.  Not sure if you saw my other post but I've got the ? again here as well.  

 

Quote

Depends on how the lines are attached to the thermostat.  When you removed the thermostat, did the lines un-bolt from it with a plate holding them down?  Or were the lines quick connected into the thermostat? 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Mozzer said:

Here's what I've got.

ebacb88903d537e59512f738c3efeec7.jpg
 

That's the quick connect style. My part number will help eliminate a choice. This number is for the plate and bolt style my truck has: GM 13511136 The other GM number is then yours. Hope that makes sense. 

Posted
That's the quick connect style. My part number will help eliminate a choice. This number is for the plate and bolt style my truck has: GM 13511136 The other GM number is then yours. Hope that makes sense. 
Great thank you very much.

Sent from my SM-A705W using Tapatalk

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No I didn’t watch a video of a person who analyzes oil for a living explain general oil usage. For clarity I did ask my brothers one who runs our equipment business. The other who runs our old ROW business about oil usage. Nothing has changed since I retired. Their personal vehicles or work vehicles use no oil. Not enough to see on the oil checking device. Then I pondered. I like to ponder. In this extended oil changing world with oil change countdowns or lights. If engines used say a qt every 2500 miles or up to even 4000 miles. With oil changes reaching as high as 15000 miles. Normal for most people is eight to ten. Vehicles should potentially be seizing up all over the place. Especially in hilly terrain. Just how many people actually check their oil? Maybe 10 percent. Those are the people that probably change their oil early. I like to research used car listings. I have five favorite dealers I check. They all list carfax with their listing. It’s rare to see vehicles with anything but extended oil changes. Transmission service, forget about it. I’ve seen Honda and Toyota certified vehicles up to 100K miles and ten years old. With nothing but normal maintenance. Isn’t nice we all have different experiences and believe our way is the best. You certainly get backup for whatever you believe. Life would be boring otherwise.
    • Interesting rumor. Dealers near me have been tight-lipped so far, but if this reveal actually happens next week, I'm really hoping they finally give the HD a proper interior overhaul. The competition has been eating their lunch in the cabin department for a while now.
    • There are a few good takeaways in that video that pertain to this thread, certainly the possibility of the oil control rings having buildup, the fuel injectors and how clean or not that they are ending up affecting the pistons rings carbon buildup, and the fact that its normal up to a point for a given engine to use some oil, and that the oil quality that is being utilized is part of that ring clogging up issue as well.   I was talking with a neighbor yesterday who has a baby LZ0 duramax and he had bought it slightly used but it does consume some oil and he has switched over to 5W-30 Euro spec oil and in this case that never made a difference in consumption over the factory 0W-20 recommendation. He finds it uses a quart in about 3500 miles and as he goes a ways over that distance he adds oil to full and goes another 1000 miles or so and then changes oil and is typically at 40% or so left on the oil monitor at that point with his use case of quite a lot of highway miles and more limited in short run use. I don't know what other LZ0 engines are doing for oil consumption but that is what his is doing. 
    • I dont care what Lake says. Goodnight. 
    • Ok well I guess Lake disagrees with me on a few points. I call oil consumption pretty basic. Rudimentary. He calls it "really complicated." I think 1qt consumed in 3k miles is a lot. He says that's normal. In 22 minutes, he'll use his natural talent to explain oil consumption to anyone watching this video. He covers everything from obvious engine damage to how normally functioning healthy engines consume oil by design. Lake explicitly states how you drive will impact oil consumption.   Shut up and watch:    
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...