Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi All, I need your advice on what I should do about needed transmission repair on my 2005 Yukon 2wd 5.3L with 290k miles.  Original motor.  Motor generally runs fine - I do get the occasional lifter knock and my oil pressure drops to 0 sometimes (or at least the gauge says it does) when the motor is cold and I stop at a light.  As soon as I get back on the gas the pressure goes back up.  I also have a bit of coolant leaking into the oil - likely head gasket... but, I had these same exact issues on my old 2000 Yukon and ran it up to 400k miles.

 

So, my transmission lost the 2/4 band, and I've also now got a code for Solenoid A stuck on.  I either need a transmission rebuild, where a local shop will pull apart my transmission and replace the bad parts and all the seals and rings ad what not -- that will run me $1800-$2000.  Or, I can put in a remanufactured transmission.  Looking at maybe 4k for that?

 

Curious to know what people think I should do.  Rebuilt, remanufactured, or just sell it off for cheap.  It has high mileage and the other nagging engine issues.  Also has a brand new set of Michelins. 

 

I don't think I want to invest in a remanufactured transmission on a vehicle with this many miles.  Could do a rebuild, but I've read about people having issues with those. 

 

Your advice would be appreciated.

Posted

Sell It.

Sounds to me like you should have sold it before this.

Posted (edited)

umm...fix gasket?  Go to salvage yard yank out transmission put it in yourself turn key over and drive another 50k?  Sell it for price you think it's worth currently for same price 2 yrs from now?

Edited by mookdoc6
Posted

5k for reman motor, 4k for remain tranny = 150k more miles.

45k for a new truck and 250k miles.

.06/mile vs .18/mile

.12/mile for the lifestyle change (improved interior) reduced possible problems, etc

  • Like 1
Posted

Yeah, sefiroxx, I see what you're getting at.  I'm inclined to find another 03-06 Yukon/Tahoe with 100-150k miles on it.  For the 8-10k i'll cost me, I can probably get 100-150k miles.  That's 7 or 8 cents a mile. 

 

I'm not a huge fan of the 07-13 Tahoes.  I have a 2012.  Been solid mechanically, just really boring looking and super uncomfortable seats.  Cheap plastics inside too.  I like the looks of the newer ones a lot, but they're not as comfortable as the 00-06s.  I'm 6'7" and close to 300 pounds.  The way they've designed the new ones, the B pillar really hits me in the left shoulder. 

 

I'd drive a 00-06 forever if I could.

Posted
On 10/16/2020 at 2:39 PM, dukbludvl said:

I'd drive a 00-06 forever if I could.

You can, but you'll eventually have to buy an engine or trans or both

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Are you playing Slide Down endlessly but your score is still low? Are you constantly crashing into obstacles as the game speed increases? Don't worry, this article will share 5 invaluable tips to help you master the race and impress your friends. Golden Rules 1. Look one step further. The mistake of 90% of new players is only staring at their character. The secret of experts is to look towards the top of the screen (where the slide is about to appear). This gives your brain an extra 0.5 - 1 second to process the situation and determine the direction of movement before the obstacle approaches. 2. Use gentle movements; don't swipe too hard. Slide Down is very sensitive. Moving your finger too forcefully or with excessive amplitude will cause your character to be thrown off course or crash into a wall. Practise moving your finger with small, decisive, and precise movements. 3. Don't be greedy for gold in dangerous locations. Gold coins are tempting for buying skins, but life is more important. If you see a gold coin right on the edge of a cliff or next to a spike trap, ignore it. Our goal is a High Score, and your score only increases if you survive. 4. Make the most of Power-ups. During the slide, you'll encounter items like Magnets (attract gold) or Shields (temporary invincibility). Never miss them! Especially the Shield, it's your "get out of jail free card" to help you get through those deadly fast sections. 5. Stay calm when speed peaks. When your score exceeds 500 or 1000, the game speed will be very fast. At this point, don't try to think logically; let your natural reflexes work. Take deep breaths and don't panic. Apply these 5 tips to your next game, and your leaderboard will surely improve dramatically. Good luck climbing the Slide Down leaderboard!
    • If you use compressed air regularly, one problem you cannot ignore is moisture. Water in the air line can cause rust, unstable air pressure, poor tool performance, and even damage to sensitive equipment. That is why I highly recommend using a desiccant air dryer. A desiccant air dryer is designed to remove moisture from compressed air by using drying materials such as activated alumina or molecular sieve. Compared with basic water separators, it can achieve much lower dew points, making it especially useful for applications that require dry and stable air. For workshops, painting systems, pneumatic tools, CNC machines, laser cutting equipment, and industrial production lines, a desiccant air dryer can make a big difference. It helps protect equipment, improve air quality, reduce maintenance costs, and extend the service life of the whole compressed air system. Another advantage is reliability. Many desiccant air dryers are built for continuous operation and can maintain stable drying performance even in demanding environments. For users who care about long-term efficiency and equipment protection, this is a smart investment. When choosing a desiccant air dryer, I suggest paying attention to air flow capacity, working pressure, dew point performance, regeneration method, and maintenance requirements. A good model should match your compressor system and actual air consumption. Overall, if moisture is causing problems in your compressed air system, a desiccant air dryer is definitely worth considering. It is practical, efficient, and highly useful for anyone who needs clean, dry, and reliable compressed air.
    • My brand new 2007 Silverado's wax frame was rust from end to end partway through it's SECOND winter here in MA. That stuff is completely useless.    
    • I went another direction after losing a trailer tire, thanks to not being able to access air at ANY of the 5 gas stations and garages I stopped at prior, with a Toyota Tacoma onboard, 50 miles from the Canadian border. They were either out of order, access was blocked, or the hose a few feet too short and I couldn't get any closer without risking damage to someone's property.   https://postimg.cc/gallery/X5QJ55w
    • I took a 12 second video on my iphone but the file is too big to upload. I will have to figure out how to extract the audio or just do another start with an audio recording. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...