Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hello I installed these yesterday. They look soooo good. Great upgrade for the 19-21 Silverado Custom, Trail Boss, or Work Truck

3D1C9C8C-14FF-470F-911A-CBC919973486.jpeg

1AA71F04-649A-4C54-89DB-1229A14BCBDA.jpeg

Edited by Sonny Durden
Add
  • Like 5
  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)

Looks good. Better than the yellow halogens. I surmise the headlights are still used as the DRL's instead of the strips? The only thing I've noticed on Spyder lights in the past is that the LED strips are more of a dim glow and not bright because they are florescent and not LED. Probably because they stay the same brightness day and night and not like the OEM DRL's which are bright (high power) during the day then go to low power at night. What high/low headlights are you running?  They come stock with halogens.

Edited by mafd2
Posted
10 minutes ago, mafd2 said:

Looks good. Better than the yellow halogens. I surmise the headlights are still used as the DRL's instead of the strips? The only thing I've noticed on Spyder lights in the past is that the LED strips are more of a dim glow and not bright. Probably because they stay the same brightness day and night and not like the OEM DRL's which are bright (high power) during the day then go to low power at night.

So the LED strips are not used as DRL. They only come on when you remote start the truck or when you actually turn the lights on. Since they are plug and play they utilize the low beam as the DRL just like the normal halogen lights

Posted (edited)

The strips are CCFL (florescent) and not LED. What high/low headlights are you running?

Edited by mafd2
Posted
2 hours ago, mafd2 said:

The strips are CCFL (florescent) and not LED. What high/low headlights are you running?

So this housing calls for a H7 instead of a H11. It comes with those bulbs. I upgraded the H7 low beam with a LED by Beam Tech. 

Posted
2 hours ago, mafd2 said:

The strips are CCFL (florescent) and not LED. What high/low headlights are you running?

I didn’t know that they were florescent. They are pretty bright at night 

Posted

Looks nice. Be sure you get hem aimed correctly. Go on an even slad and use mortar lines on a brick wall or similar to be sure they are same height. If you get flashed, bring them down a tad until the cut off line on the projectors is right. Not sure if you know but LED or HID headlights voids the warranty but I would've changed the halogens myself. Aftermarket LED headlights put out a lot of heat and have melted some housings.

 

Posted

one of first things i did was upgrade to LEDs.....mine worked out perfect as far as cutoff.....i used a wall like dude above said and almost identical, haven't been flashed once in 6 months and my truck sits pretty high....

 

my neighbors business upgrades sprinter vans into fancy overlander type vehicles and he brought a brand new one home other day and even that had halogens......those are 50-80k though this one was probably closer to 50k......still cant believe halogen even exist anymore

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 11/7/2020 at 8:34 AM, Sonny Durden said:

Hello I installed these yesterday. They look soooo good. Great upgrade for the 19-21 Silverado Custom, Trail Boss, or Work Truck

3D1C9C8C-14FF-470F-911A-CBC919973486.jpeg

1AA71F04-649A-4C54-89DB-1229A14BCBDA.jpeg

Do you have a photo of these lights in brighter light turned off? Trying to decide between these or HID retrofit

Posted
On 12/17/2020 at 10:36 AM, Stephen Dillon said:

Do you have a photo of these lights in brighter light turned off? Trying to decide between these or HID retrofit

 

SPYDERHL.jpg

  • Like 2
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I like the look of these pretty good! Spyder quality has come a long way since I had a set on my 2009 Silverado. 

 

I hate that GM went back to halogens on some T1 trims. Every K1 produced 2016+ had bixenon projectors - even the work trucks. Now someone who spends a lot of money on a Custom or Custom TB gets halogens? Bean counters at it again...

Posted

I think those look pretty good. Sort of have the 2500 style to them.  I'm glad to see aftermarket supplies jump on new opportunities. 

Posted
On 1/5/2021 at 3:13 PM, BluegrassMotorsport said:

I like the look of these pretty good! Spyder quality has come a long way since I had a set on my 2009 Silverado. 

 

 

I hope they are good. It wasn't exactly easy to replace them. LOL

I don't want to do it again anytime soon.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • tl; dr I've now reached the 6th floor of hell. I'm chronicling my journey for my morning readers.   Pulling the top of the intake apart was moderately easy but it involved a lot of parts, connections, and minutae. I was preparing for the new fuel lines to arrive ("nut and bolt kit" it's called). The fuel line connections are notched and held in place by the manifold and a metal plate with a T27 screw.   It's on the back of the intake, under the firewall, with little clearance, and two hard metal fuel lines in the way. I was using Franken-tools (weird combinations of 1/4 inch ratchet with/without an extension, with a bit holder for my T27) to get in there. One of my sockets and bits fell off and has yet to emerge on the floor. I lost a second setup and that's when I almost started throwing tools. But that was the point at which I had gotten traction on the Torx head, and it promptly stripped. No more traction.   I started humming "1-877-kars-4-kids" because I was about at that point. You know what? I'm $1500 into this thing and I can make it disappear just as quickly. This isn't fun anymore. I had spent a lot of time already "tidying" around the engine bay: Fixing all the "someone's been here before!" BS. The truck has been exclusively dealer- and shop- serviced and I'm reminded of why I never let other people work on my cars unless absolutely necessary.   Speaking of dealer service. This truck has a 1" stack of records going back to 1995. I put them all in an excel spreadsheet, date/mileage/description.   The CPI spider has been replaced 4 times in 85k miles. The EGR? Another 4. Multiple, multiple O2 sensors. One Cat. 4? Sets of plugs and wires, and I swear half the stack is diagnosis paperwork for "misfire, runs rough, extended crank, dies at stoplights".   GM was producing some proper crap back then. And it was still well within the era of brittle/crappy plastic. (Windows 95 was released the same month this truck was sold new, we HAD the technology!!)   There (was) a plastic shroud around the evaporator core and HVAC fan in the engine bay. I noticed a chunk of it missing so I poked at it some more and it literally shattered. Touched it some more and pieces were crumbling off. Had a good laugh. Clearly whatever plastic garbage they were using had broken down over 30 years and was literally turning to dust. That was a good half hour of using a shop vac to remove the rest of it.   Back to it.   I was going to give up for the evening but then decided I'm already level 10 pissed off at the stripped screw: G* D* it, give me my tools back -- and my JOY. We'll do this the hard way: The whole intake is coming off.   Blazer won Round II. After finally finding and accessing the 12 intake bolts and using a pry bar to unseat it from the heads, it popped loose in an explosion of gunk and grime raining down into open ports. Awesome.   6 times I reminded myself: Be careful of the temperature sender on the front of the intake.   YEAH, I forgot again and snapped it clean off in the removal. Add another $20 to the ever-growing list of new parts this thing is consuming.   The shame is, long before removing the intake, I had changed the oil in prep for Tuesday's momentous fuel line replacement that was going to be the magic fix and I'd have a running Blazer to tool around in this next weekend. The intake removal, including raining gunk, also gushed dirty coolant all over the valley. Of course it did. Welp, there goes another $35.   I now need an intake gasket set, bolt set, coolant temp sensor, another 5 quarts of oil, some RTV. Don't worry, I've already got 3 new jugs of Dexcool and a thermostat waiting. I'll fill it with clean water first to get it running, dump it, and then add the Dex later on in case... well, let's not go there. I'm only tearing this down once, next time the truck is going on Marketplace for FREE.   Oh, and I'm going to need vacuum hose for all the stupid connections placed at the rear of the engine which have since disintegrated. Come on, GM....tell me you don't do that anymore?   Oh, and the ears on the distributor where the cap screws down are both cracked. I mean, why not put a new distributor in it too. You get a distributor, YOU get a distributor, Everyone gets a new distributor!   This truck isn't out of the woods yet...I'm already questioning how much more time I'm willing to sink in.
    • NewDude, thank you for the suggestions!    I did follow up and the dealer indicates he has an open CX case and is working with DPAC (Dealer Parts Assistance Center).   Per the dealer, GM has had a quality spill and is not providing an update for when a replacement engine will be available.
    • That's interesting.   There was a factory wire-hole in the back, top of the rear cab, which had a wire for the third brakelight assembly running through it, as well as several holes (10 of them I believe) for all of the studs coming off of the 3rd brakelight assembly itself.   I sealed all of those holes with RTV/silicone as well.   I found it kind of odd, that none of those holes, were sealed with any kind of sealant by the factory - if there was any there, it wasn't very much.   That said, I've been out in heavy rain and have ran the truck through high-pressure car-washes a few times now and she has been 100% water-tight to this point.   I feel very confident in the repair, we'll see how it holds up.
    • I bought a used 2022 2500hd with 6.6L in February. In March took a 2200 mile trip towing our 6500 lb trailer. Changed the oil day before leaving and when we were arriving at our 1st destination, low oil light came on (roughly 1000 miles) it was 2 qts low. Now it towed like a dream, no issue there, and we did go through the mountains of TN, but still, 2 qts! Luckily I did purchase an extended warranty. Brought it to the dealership in April, oil change and consumption test. Brought it back last week, 1300 miles, no towing, and no oil showing on the dipstick. GM is reccomending a new engine (cheaper than them rebuilding), we'll see if the warranty company comes through. 
    • T3's and Ibuprofen. I do have a cryotherapy unit (ice machine) and a lift chair that will allow me to raise my legs above my heart.  There are topicals that I can use once the wound is fully healed.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...