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2019 Rust a problem?

Jer Bear
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OnTheReel Senior Enthusiast

OnTheReel

Posted
Posted

Buy a can of Daubert Nox-Rust (same as the factory coating) and touch up a few times a year. Entering my third salty WI winter and my frame is still looking great. All you can really do is try to keep up with it and slow it down. Every time the truck is on a lift, the pads wear off the frame coating so I touch up those places and then hit the edges of body mounts where the coating was thin. It’s all superficial anyway.

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aseibel
aseibel

In Wisconsin, your frame would look like that the day you drove it off the lot. I'm actually jealous of how little rust you have.   You can spend time cleaning it, applying oil, nox or whate

diyer2
diyer2

You don't say where you are but the point was a truck in the salt belt lasted 14 years without issues.  You seem to be what my Dad called damned if you do damned if you don't.  My guess as s

diyer2
diyer2

I wouldn't worry. I just posted about frame rust.  Read this   

Posted Images

Rob Mugs Enthusiast

Rob Mugs

Posted
Posted
9 minutes ago, Daly said:

All your post tells me is that with out a little preventative maintenance, a truck that could last a long time, only lasted 14-16 years. And thats not a good time frame in my mind, thats actually pretty bad. 

In 2015 I bought a 1991 C2500, that had been religiously undercoated since day one, off of the second owner (the first owners son). This was an Ontario truck and was daily driven year round. The frame was perfect and rust free, it had the original fuel and brake line, no rust on the body, even the bushings were original. That's 29 years with no sign of "I might get 2 more years out of it". 

Just because it's a snow belt truck doesn't mean it has to have a limited life span. 

To go on a tangent here, what exactly are you using?  I ask because I have had undercoatings on other vehicles and they look pretty until you put it on a lift and realize everything under the coating has rotted away and the vehicle is essentially held together by what's left of the frame and undercoating.  Could poke a finger right through

diyer2 Senior Enthusiast

diyer2

Posted
Posted

All your post tells me is, we have a difference in opinions Daly.

Daly Senior Enthusiast

Daly

Posted
Posted (edited)

The 91 was done with Ziebart, not my choice, but I wasn't the original owner. The benefit to Ziebart is (or use to be, not sure if it's still the same) if you have it done from when the vehicle is new and have it touched up by them every year, then they fix any rust that happens. They stood behind their product, again not the product I prefer and I'm not sure if the still offer that kind of warranty. 

On my new trucks I've used Krown. My ATV is done with Krown every year and it has no rust. I use my ATV to push snow all winter. My dad's 2004 2500HD was done with Krown every other year and it's in the same shape as my old 91. Except he's had to replace the  brake lines, but 99-06 trucks are notorious for brake lines rotting. 

Edited by Daly
Daly Senior Enthusiast

Daly

Posted
Posted

That video is why I don't like Ziebart, it's a rubber based product. It has to be maintained, if not it will rot from underneath. 

Once I bought the 91, I cleaned a lot of it offhand the frame was good, but I resprayed with Krown. You should use an oil based product not a rubberized product. 

Rob Mugs Enthusiast

Rob Mugs

Posted
Posted
6 minutes ago, Daly said:

The 91 was done with Ziebart, not my choice, but I wasn't the original owner. The benefit to Ziebart is (or use to be, not sure if it's still the same) if you have it done from when the vehicle is new and have it touched up by them every year, then the fix any rust that happens. They stood behind their product, again not the product I prefer and I'm not sure if the still offer that kind of warranty. 

On my new trucks I've used Krown. My ATV is done with Krown every year and it has now rust. I use my ATV to push snow all winter. My dad's 2004 2500HD was done with Krown every other year and it's in the same shape as my old 91. Except he's had to replace the  brake lines, but 99-06 trucks are notorious for brake lines rotting. 

Krown does seem to be a much better product.  It's not just an inch thick coating of tar.  Will do more research.. thanks!

stevejones Enthusiast

stevejones

Posted
Posted

I should make an undercoating how-to thread.  I use this stuff: https://www.theruststore.com/Cortec-VpCI-368D-P83.aspx

 

I buy the 5-gallon pail & use a fluid film gun w/attachments.  Pull the wheel liners, body plugs, skid shields, tail lamps, spare tire, etc.  Get the truck on jackstands, pull the wheels & tires, put on some old clothes, respirator, dustmask &  go to town with the stuff.

 

I probably have 16 hours into the job, but it is well worth it.

 

 

Rob Mugs Enthusiast

Rob Mugs

Posted
Posted

Heh.. ironically enough, the guy making the anti-Ziebart video, made a video about a Krown-like product
 

 

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted

The science is...Iron, water, oxygen.

Remove one of these and there is no rust.

Anything past this is marketing. 

Rob Mugs Enthusiast

Rob Mugs

Posted
Posted (edited)
12 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

The science is...Iron, water, oxygen.

Remove one of these and there is no rust.

Anything past this is marketing. 

Correct, but some products work better than others.  Some will allow a tiny bit of water in, and never let it out (eg Ziebart and the like).  Suppose that is what I am trying to find out.  Which will block out water and salt/other ingredients the speed up electrolysis and/or burn through the finish that you've applied.

In the end, the OP was concerned about a little rust and I personally would like to prevent it as long as I can, as inexpensively as I can :) 

Edited by Rob Mugs
Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
2 minutes ago, Rob Mugs said:

Correct, but some products work better than others.  Some will allow a tiny bit of water in, and never let it out (eg Ziebart and the like).  Suppose that is what I am trying to find out.  Which will block out water and salt/other ingredients the speed up electrolysis and/or burn through the finish that you've applied.

In the end, the OP was concerned about a little rust and I personally would like to prevent it as long as I can, as inexpensively as I can :) 

Most product failures are application failures and most of those failures to understand that you can't apply preventatives like Ziebart over wet metal AND it must be maintained. Once upon a time Ziebart would not even touch a car that was not squeaky fresh new right from the dealership. They all will take your money now. 

 

Single stage Rust controls either displace or seal.  Some surfaces flex and some don't. Each has it's own methods and materials. People in general want the benefits without the effort and inconvenience. They don't like oil because it collects dust. They don't like wax because under stress it cracks. They don't like most because they require maintenance. Ziebart requires maintenance. Annual maintenance. Don't do it and you get stories about how it lets water in. Yes it does. Just like a scratch in you paint compromises it's rust preventive effectiveness. 

 

But what they ALL do like is rust free.

Pick a poison. 

 

 

Rob Mugs Enthusiast

Rob Mugs

Posted
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Most product failures are application failures and most of those failures to understand that you can't apply preventatives like Ziebart over wet metal AND it must be maintained. Once upon a time Ziebart would not even touch a car that was not squeaky fresh new right from the dealership. They all will take your money now. 

 

Single stage Rust controls either displace or seal.  Some surfaces flex and some don't. Each has it's own methods and materials. People in general want the benefits without the effort and inconvenience. They don't like oil because it collects dust. They don't like wax because under stress it cracks. They don't like most because they require maintenance. Ziebart requires maintenance. Annual maintenance. Don't do it and you get stories about how it lets water in. Yes it does. Just like a scratch in you paint compromises it's rust preventive effectiveness. 

 

But what they ALL do like is rust free.

Pick a poison. 

 

 

I've had Ziebart and "Rusty Jones" and neither were worth the gas I spent bringing the cars in with.  Areas coated rotted faster than those that weren't.  These were on an 81 K5 and 85 Trans Am with Rusty Jones/Ziebart 

 

Both were done on brand new cars just after leaving the dealer.  (Had to think back there.. been awhile) :)  Both ended up with replaced panels  that rotted but it was an uphill battle and they never matched the paint properly.....

To each their own, I wouldn't put that stuff on anything 

Edited by Rob Mugs
OnTheReel Senior Enthusiast

OnTheReel

Posted
Posted

Just need to wash the damn thing once in awhile and keep up on maintenance. Why spray a bunch of junk on the frame that’s going to react with the factory coating and make a huge mess. Again, entering my third winter of salt and brine here. You can see where I touched up around the lift pads last month but that’s it. If you didn’t know better you’d think it’s new off the lot.

 

BAB6AB20-D3DE-4E8C-AEF7-FED855F6687C.thumb.jpeg.fa5a10289ff4e3274da732375d635039.jpeg699A48F1-147D-41B5-B521-44A7D1401A90.thumb.jpeg.1e9bd70a68bc2707425aae71150ffd7f.jpegB68A749D-AFE3-482F-807F-78E7CAB197BE.thumb.jpeg.2dc03159497bfbf5c4cd20eabf7e70f9.jpeg7D69A42F-2463-43C3-97B7-1C62D0BFD0A0.thumb.jpeg.902509dbf37938bd6840a44362fdddd3.jpeg


As someone else said, I’m pretty sure even if you do nothing, the frame will outlive the truck. As I see it, these aren’t gonna be much fun to own 10 years from now anyway. Fancy brake by wire system alongside all the other aging electronics, a transmission they didn’t even bother giving you a dipstick for, and DFM (which is still somewhat unproven, especially when you’re talking over 100k miles)...

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