Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
20 minutes ago, joshuapchase said:

Yes I have them... they work great.

Can you post photos???

 

I can't find actual photos anywhere, and they're not cheap! 

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 12/2/2020 at 7:45 AM, ST3 said:

Can you post photos???

 

I can't find actual photos anywhere, and they're not cheap! 

Good system, but I also found little info. Found mine on eBay from dealer close out. Works great for mounting Thule upride bike rack.

 

227DBF6E-D311-4C77-AF46-0C95FCC87992.jpeg

  • 5 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
On 1/4/2021 at 10:52 PM, James Euler said:

Good system, but I also found little info. Found mine on eBay from dealer close out. Works great for mounting Thule upride bike rack.

 

227DBF6E-D311-4C77-AF46-0C95FCC87992.jpeg

Is the bike rack mounted in the slot of the cross rail? Most of pics I've seen show the 2 bolt mount under cross rail or squarebar adapter from Thule.

84065979-1-CHE.jpg

31KJxY51ugL._AC_SX450_.jpg

Edited by RedHot6.2
Posted
6 hours ago, RedHot6.2 said:

Is the bike rack mounted in the slot of the cross rail? Most of pics I've seen show the 2 bolt mount under cross rail or squarebar adapter from Thule.

84065979-1-CHE.jpg

31KJxY51ugL._AC_SX450_.jpg

Yes, I used t-bolts engaged in the slots of the cross bars. Neither of those clamps included with the Thule bike rack were large enough to fasten around the GearOn rails, which have a pretty beefy square profile. And I had to grind down two sides of the square heads of the t-bolts that came with the Thule UpRider rack, to fit them into the slots.

Posted

Thanks. Wondered why they have the slot in the top of cross rail but I can't seem to find any gearon accessories that seem to utilize them. 

Posted

Near as I have been able to deduce, GearOn was rather ill-fated partnership between GM and Thule, with just enough influence from GM to make the system somewhat incompatible with most of Thule's regular line of stuff.

 

But those crossbars themselves are pretty cool; very slick system to quickly attach/detach from the GM accessory tie-down loops (which are also quick to install/remove), and the bars are heck of stout. I can sit my 200-lb+ carcass on the middle of one with no visible flex at all.

 

So it was worth the slight trouble for me to conform the UpRider bike rack to the GearOn crossbars.

Posted
9 hours ago, RedHot6.2 said:

Thanks. Wondered why they have the slot in the top of cross rail but I can't seem to find any gearon accessories that seem to utilize them. 

Try the aftermarket mount companies for t-slot mounts, like RockyMounts or Yakima. 

Posted
On 2/4/2021 at 2:18 PM, James Euler said:

Near as I have been able to deduce, GearOn was rather ill-fated partnership between GM and Thule, with just enough influence from GM to make the system somewhat incompatible with most of Thule's regular line of stuff.

 

But those crossbars themselves are pretty cool; very slick system to quickly attach/detach from the GM accessory tie-down loops (which are also quick to install/remove), and the bars are heck of stout. I can sit my 200-lb+ carcass on the middle of one with no visible flex at all.

 

So it was worth the slight trouble for me to conform the UpRider bike rack to the GearOn crossbars.

Thanks. I picked up 2 of the Thule Proride 598 racks for $100 from craigslist the other day. Once I can find a good deal on the gearon cross rails I'll be able to check the dimensions of the t slots in them. Can't find an end view with dimensions anywhere. Seems like someone could make some money making items that would fit those cross rails since GM and Thule didn't do much with them. 

Posted
7 hours ago, RedHot6.2 said:

Thanks. I picked up 2 of the Thule Proride 598 racks for $100 from craigslist the other day. Once I can find a good deal on the gearon cross rails I'll be able to check the dimensions of the t slots in them. Can't find an end view with dimensions anywhere. Seems like someone could make some money making items that would fit those cross rails since GM and Thule didn't do much with them. 

The slot in the cross rail is 15mm at the wide part, 10mm at the slot itself, and about 5mm deep.

The Thule standard T-bolts will work, if you grind the head down to 15mm in one dimension (they are about 20mm square).

Let me know if you need more detail. Good luck!

  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 2/5/2021 at 12:39 PM, RedHot6.2 said:

Thanks. I picked up 2 of the Thule Proride 598 racks for $100 from craigslist the other day. Once I can find a good deal on the gearon cross rails I'll be able to check the dimensions of the t slots in them. Can't find an end view with dimensions anywhere. Seems like someone could make some money making items that would fit those cross rails since GM and Thule didn't do much with them. 

Way off topic, what "model" is your 15 C7? Have you posted any pictures, love the C6 and C7's, just saw my first C8 up close a week ago.

 

Just found out a neighbor down the street has a white C7 tucked away in his garage, will have to stop by and look at it up close.

Posted (edited)
16 hours ago, JimCost2014 said:

Way off topic, what "model" is your 15 C7? Have you posted any pictures, love the C6 and C7's, just saw my first C8 up close a week ago.

 

Just found out a neighbor down the street has a white C7 tucked away in his garage, will have to stop by and look at it up close.

Stingray, Z51 package, 7 speed manual. Replaced the chrome badges last year with the carbon flash ones (2nd pic)

671.jpeg

20190622_174108.jpg

Edited by RedHot6.2
  • Like 1
Posted
7 minutes ago, RedHot6.2 said:

Stingray, Z51 package, 7 speed manual. Replaced the chrome badges last year with the carbon flash ones (2nd pic)

671.jpeg

20190622_174108.jpg

Great looking car!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,758
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Randy Ginoza
    Newest Member
    Randy Ginoza
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 1 Anonymous, 1,532 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
    • Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
    • Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...