Jump to content

1.5 inch wheel spacers

Cuongdyna
 Share

Recommended Posts

amxguy1970 Senior Enthusiast

amxguy1970

Posted
Posted

^ This as my rear fenders already got hammered stock on gravel roads. Plus I don't want to have anything that could potentially cause catastrophic issues when towing/hauling heavy or being used off road, spacers don't have the best track record for reliability. I guess if it doesn't do much truck stuff it is fine. Not to mention I kind of am a fan of my wheel bearings and would rather not put them under any extra strain as replacing them isn't a fun task. To each their own, stuff like this is why I won't buy a used truck. 

 

Tyler

Cuongdyna Enthusiast

Cuongdyna

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Im not here to change or challenge anyone knowledge. I just want to share some ideas and pictures. I have used wheel spacers on my Jeeps for over 14 years never had a problem. I have rock crawled, driven 70 mhp thought the desert and bearing, wheel and wheel spaces been fine. Just make sure the spacer are made with T 6061 aluminum.  So far the mad flap been doing a good job of protecting the side of my truck. Here are so pictures of my Jeep with 2.5 inch spacer. 

 

 

 

JK1.jpg

JK2.jpg

Cuongdyna Enthusiast

Cuongdyna

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 hour ago, redwngr said:

Changing the steering geometry for a different 'look'?

Steering geometry I haven't notice a different. If there is, its to small to notice. 

Coles5515 Enthusiast

Coles5515

Posted
Posted

Wow tough crowd, personally I like the “look” of them and have had them on all my trucks and knock on wood never had an issue. I’ve had them with 33’s to 40” tires and only have 1 issue which was my fault as I didn’t loctite the lugs. 
 

what’s more idiotic is guys cutting fender and mudflaps to fit a 35” on a damn leveling kit! Meaning don’t troll and be a dbag, guy was just showing his truck with spacers. 

  • Like 4
  • 4 weeks later...
Chrisd534 Enthusiast

Chrisd534

Posted
Posted

Love the look! Did they fit okay or did you have to cut the studs? 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 279 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • davester
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By davester · Posted

      are there any codes? with lots of rust, perhaps disconnect/clean both sides of the connection/examine cable ends (the wires) for corrosion going into the sheath & replace if necessary/reconnect ALL the power AND ground cables between the battery, engine, frame, cab, fuse box and starter charm.li (website) has a no-start diagnostic procedure you can work through to get it working.
    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      I knew a guy in the early 80's that bought a new Monte Carlo and ran it a 100,000 miles without ever changing the filter or the oil. Just kept adding. It looked like that inside.     

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...