Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, UplandPa said:

I would venture to guess that most here have a catch can???

i got rid of mine, i just wasn't catching much.  5000 miles i had maybe a table spoon full.

i did switch to the non DexOS oil , redline 5w-30 full synth.  and a 175 thermostat. not sure if being 20-30 degrees cooler is affecting the reduced oil consumption.

 

Edited by flyingfool
  • Like 2
Posted
2 hours ago, UplandPa said:

I would venture to guess that most here have a catch can???

Nope. 132,000 trouble fee. Uses none per 5K OCI so what would I catch other than moisture? Don't see the need in my case. 

  • Like 3
Posted (edited)

130k almost got ya Grumps!  I have a catch can catching 90% water....I sleep better at night!  Oh and by the way, I am coking the valves and we shall see if I can even get this slug to 200k!  Going to be stretch imo……………. 

Edited by mookdoc6
  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Posted
1 hour ago, mookdoc6 said:

130k almost got ya Grumps!  I have a catch can catching 90% water....I sleep better at night!  Oh and by the way, I am coking the valves and we shall see if I can even get this slug to 200k!  Going to be stretch imo……………. 

your catching water... JUst curious but...

 

 what is the climate like in the area you drive? 

 

do you make  short driving trips during the day?

 

is there a yellow snot like substance under the oil fill cap?

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted
I would venture to guess that most here have a catch can???
Neither of my 2018's have one.


Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
13 hours ago, mookdoc6 said:

130k almost got ya Grumps!  I have a catch can catching 90% water....I sleep better at night!  Oh and by the way, I am coking the valves and we shall see if I can even get this slug to 200k!  Going to be stretch imo……………. 

 

You're too fast for me MOOK. 

:crackup:

 

Hey what cabin filter was that you wanted me to put in your truck...er...my truck?

 

Posted
On 12/22/2020 at 8:46 PM, Grumpy Bear said:

 

You're too fast for me MOOK. 

:crackup:

 

Hey what cabin filter was that you wanted me to put in your truck...er...my truck?

 

I will get that # for you....

  • Like 1
Posted

I've ran an elite engineering one on my 2018 5.3 since new and I'm blown away every time I do an oil change how much is in the catch can. I do an oil change every 4,000-5,000 KM 

Posted (edited)
On 12/19/2020 at 5:41 PM, catpartsman said:

My boss has a 14 Silverado 5.3 with 240K on the clock. Only thing he’s done is a tranny and torque and oil changes. He drives 140 miles per day to and from work with all of it being interstate. His truck is bone stock and is planning to drive it until at least 350K or more he said. He’s averaging 21.5 too on MPG’s he said.

I wonder how many miles one would have to put on a motor trouble free before people would get comfortable with the idea of not running one. ? Evidently 240,000 isn't enough yet. 

 

On 12/19/2020 at 11:44 AM, m3n00b said:

It would be awesome if we could see your valves!

 

Pictures don't help. They've been posted to these catch can threads multiple times by fella's on this site and it still doesn't put a dent in it. 

 

On 12/19/2020 at 5:20 PM, dieselfan1 said:

Am I wrong but before Direct injection , pre 2014, a catch can didn't do anything.
I had a bunch of 5.3's that had big miles no catch can.

The selection of motor oil has more to do with valve deposits than where the fuel is injected. IF you choose the wrong oil then yes port feed fuel with detergents is a big help. But if the right oil is chosen then there is no need to clean what isn't there...is there? 

 

 

A PCV system has two primary functions. 1.) Keep crankcase pressure low 2.) Remove raw liquid from the gas stream. Oil separation. Most of what is caught in a catch can is condensed vapors of water, gas and oil. Without the can it would have remained a vapor in a well functioning system. 

 

The measure of the volume of oil vapor possible is the NOACK test. SN and SN Plus have a limit of 15% if memory serves me well. The DEXOS license lowers that limit to 13%. Some top shelf PAO/POE based oils have NOACK numbers half the SN spec. Some as low as the 5% range. 

 

http://www.sbintl.com/tech_library/articles/tlc_of_your_valves_temperatures_loads_and_corrosive_environment.pdf

 Normal temperatures on intakes range from 600° to 800° F in the center of the head of a light duty job to 800°-1000° F for a heavy-duty application. At the seat face, those temperatures range from 200°-400° F on light duty engines, to 400°-600° F on heavy-duty engines. As with seat faces, the under head areas are relatively mild on both types — about 200°-300° F on light duty to 300°-400° F on heavy-duty jobs.

 

Nothing there hot enough to  coke motor oil. Fact is claims by Mobil state their oil is good for trips to 500F. Let that pause in the grey matter for a minute. 

 

The same detergents that prevent deposits on the underside of a 500F piston head will do likewise for the cold side of an intake valve a 100F cooler. That is in the liquid state should the system become overwhelmed or dysfunctional. It's the vapor state that becomes worrisome. In that state there is no detergent package present. 

 

Lastly note that vapor traffic and valve temperatures are LOAD DEPENDANT. Harder you whip it, the more vapor traffic and at a higher temperature the system will have to deal with. 

 

Take a ways? 1.) Lower the  NOACK the better. 2.) Lowest NOACK happen with Group IV and V base oils 3.) Lower the load the better. 4.) Better system maintenance. PVC replacement once in awhile. Change the oil at intervals that are not kissing the basement floor for TBN or allowed to rise above the TAN.  

Edited by Grumpy Bear
Data correction
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,973
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RichardRS
    Newest Member
    RichardRS
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 768 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Well that book won't sell many copies. Taking ones right foot off the loud pedal never gets applause. Funny really, It isn't that people don't know what to do...they just don't want to do it. But they will complain about it. About bad craftsmanship, about the cost of fuel, about the cost of part and repairs and mainly they complain that the solution while still possible isn't one they are willing to do.    I observe this daily. 'Gas cost to much!", they wail, while they mat it passing at 80+ mpg and scoot down the road like gas cost a dime a gallon. Then complain about the few that will lift and save both fuel and iron like they are owed and own the road.    Good thing they haven't an ounce of influence on my equipment. The rest I just laugh at. Stupid is as stupid does, right Forest?     
    • Today I filled up with 4.899 gallons of fuel at a cost of $4.899 a gallon. $24 bucks. 290 miles. 59.2 mpg. After my 4% COSTCO discount just under eight cents a mile.  
    • Howdy folks,   Recently I pulled a heated steering wheel and clock spring out of a 2015 Sierra All Terrain (part numbers coming soon - will have to disassemble), and just installed it on my 2016 Sierra WT (as base model as it gets).   On install, I noticed that I’m missing the connector often tucked behind the dash for the heating element.     No problem… or so I thought.   I used an “Add-A-Fuse” at my heated steering wheel fuse location, which has voltage, but no wires. I ran it to the positive of the heated steering wheel (Violet/White), and took black to ground.   Hooked up the battery, turned the truck on - no heated steering wheel. No button backlights. Was pleased to see that my cruise control was working though.   Read a post suggesting reversing polarity, so I gave it a shot. Violet and White to ground, Black to power.    Aha! Heat! But I seemingly can’t turn it off AND still no backlights on any of the buttons.    Checked all fuses, everything is still in good order. I’m stumped.   Does anyone have any insight? If so, please share!
    • I'm about 1800 miles into my last oil change, and yesterday a message appeared saying oil life was at 77%. Not sure why it popped up but I think all of these electronics could be susceptible to solar flares or somesuch. I change my oil right at 3K each time, and that was the first time in 10870 miles that message came up. Strange thing is that it showed on the screen at all since I don't drive with that sort of info displayed on the DIC.
    • I’m praying that someone sees this and can help me out… pulled a heated steering wheel and clock spring out of a 2015 Sierra All Terrain, and just installed it on my 2016 Sierra WT (as base model as it gets).   On install, I noticed that I’m missing the connector often tucked behind the dash.     No problem… or so I thought.   I used an “Add-A-Fuse” at my heated steering wheel fuse location, which has voltage, but no wires. I ran it to the positive of the heated steering wheel (Violet/White), and took black to ground.   Hooked up the battery, turned the truck on - no heated steering wheel. No button backlights. Was pleased to see that my cruise control was working though.   Read a post suggesting reversing polarity, so I gave it a shot. Violet and White to ground, Black to power.    Aha! Heat! But can’t turn it off AND still no backlights.   Checked all fuses, everything is still in good order. I’m stumped.   Does anyone have any insight? If so, please share!  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...