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200,000 Without a Catch Can ?


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2 hours ago, UplandPa said:

I would venture to guess that most here have a catch can???

i got rid of mine, i just wasn't catching much.  5000 miles i had maybe a table spoon full.

i did switch to the non DexOS oil , redline 5w-30 full synth.  and a 175 thermostat. not sure if being 20-30 degrees cooler is affecting the reduced oil consumption.

 

Edited by flyingfool
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130k almost got ya Grumps!  I have a catch can catching 90% water....I sleep better at night!  Oh and by the way, I am coking the valves and we shall see if I can even get this slug to 200k!  Going to be stretch imo……………. 

Edited by mookdoc6
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1 hour ago, mookdoc6 said:

130k almost got ya Grumps!  I have a catch can catching 90% water....I sleep better at night!  Oh and by the way, I am coking the valves and we shall see if I can even get this slug to 200k!  Going to be stretch imo……………. 

your catching water... JUst curious but...

 

 what is the climate like in the area you drive? 

 

do you make  short driving trips during the day?

 

is there a yellow snot like substance under the oil fill cap?

 

 

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13 hours ago, mookdoc6 said:

130k almost got ya Grumps!  I have a catch can catching 90% water....I sleep better at night!  Oh and by the way, I am coking the valves and we shall see if I can even get this slug to 200k!  Going to be stretch imo……………. 

 

You're too fast for me MOOK. 

:crackup:

 

Hey what cabin filter was that you wanted me to put in your truck...er...my truck?

 

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On 12/19/2020 at 5:41 PM, catpartsman said:

My boss has a 14 Silverado 5.3 with 240K on the clock. Only thing he’s done is a tranny and torque and oil changes. He drives 140 miles per day to and from work with all of it being interstate. His truck is bone stock and is planning to drive it until at least 350K or more he said. He’s averaging 21.5 too on MPG’s he said.

I wonder how many miles one would have to put on a motor trouble free before people would get comfortable with the idea of not running one. ? Evidently 240,000 isn't enough yet. 

 

On 12/19/2020 at 11:44 AM, m3n00b said:

It would be awesome if we could see your valves!

 

Pictures don't help. They've been posted to these catch can threads multiple times by fella's on this site and it still doesn't put a dent in it. 

 

On 12/19/2020 at 5:20 PM, dieselfan1 said:

Am I wrong but before Direct injection , pre 2014, a catch can didn't do anything.
I had a bunch of 5.3's that had big miles no catch can.

The selection of motor oil has more to do with valve deposits than where the fuel is injected. IF you choose the wrong oil then yes port feed fuel with detergents is a big help. But if the right oil is chosen then there is no need to clean what isn't there...is there? 

 

 

A PCV system has two primary functions. 1.) Keep crankcase pressure low 2.) Remove raw liquid from the gas stream. Oil separation. Most of what is caught in a catch can is condensed vapors of water, gas and oil. Without the can it would have remained a vapor in a well functioning system. 

 

The measure of the volume of oil vapor possible is the NOACK test. SN and SN Plus have a limit of 15% if memory serves me well. The DEXOS license lowers that limit to 13%. Some top shelf PAO/POE based oils have NOACK numbers half the SN spec. Some as low as the 5% range. 

 

http://www.sbintl.com/tech_library/articles/tlc_of_your_valves_temperatures_loads_and_corrosive_environment.pdf

 Normal temperatures on intakes range from 600° to 800° F in the center of the head of a light duty job to 800°-1000° F for a heavy-duty application. At the seat face, those temperatures range from 200°-400° F on light duty engines, to 400°-600° F on heavy-duty engines. As with seat faces, the under head areas are relatively mild on both types — about 200°-300° F on light duty to 300°-400° F on heavy-duty jobs.

 

Nothing there hot enough to  coke motor oil. Fact is claims by Mobil state their oil is good for trips to 500F. Let that pause in the grey matter for a minute. 

 

The same detergents that prevent deposits on the underside of a 500F piston head will do likewise for the cold side of an intake valve a 100F cooler. That is in the liquid state should the system become overwhelmed or dysfunctional. It's the vapor state that becomes worrisome. In that state there is no detergent package present. 

 

Lastly note that vapor traffic and valve temperatures are LOAD DEPENDANT. Harder you whip it, the more vapor traffic and at a higher temperature the system will have to deal with. 

 

Take a ways? 1.) Lower the  NOACK the better. 2.) Lowest NOACK happen with Group IV and V base oils 3.) Lower the load the better. 4.) Better system maintenance. PVC replacement once in awhile. Change the oil at intervals that are not kissing the basement floor for TBN or allowed to rise above the TAN.  

Edited by Grumpy Bear
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