Jump to content

Overheating Transmission

Maine-iac

By Maine-iac
in Engines & Drivetrain

 Share

Recommended Posts

Maine-iac Enthusiast

Maine-iac

Posted
Posted

I'll get right to it. I keep an eye on my trans fluid temp, and about a week ago I noticed my temps going past 210°. I was seeing 235°-237° consistently. I brought it to a trusted dealership and they confirmed a cold trans return line. Fluid was dirty and the flush machine confirmed some blockage. So the dealership flushed until the flow was within spec, replaced fluid and filter and I was on my way. The trans temp got up to 234° on my way home testing it out. What're y'alls thoughts? I'm friends with the tech that worked on it and he seems to believe I might have a torque converter issue. Thanks in advance for the help and advice.

Bash74 Enthusiast

Bash74

Posted
Posted

If you haven't flip the pill in the transline, then you need to. I wouldn't have flushed any thing and instead just changed the fluid and a new set of lines. Flush would have been my last step. Hopefully you get it worked out.

Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk

  • Thanks 2
CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

Posted
Posted

Seems like the inline thermostat isn't doing it's job.

 

I agree with the above, do the thermostat mod and see if things get better.

  • Thanks 1
Snowcamo Senior Enthusiast

Snowcamo

Posted
Posted

If you have found debris it's likely the clutch pack wearing or tq guts. Id side more to clutch packs tho from the sounds of it. Any other issues to be noted?

Maine-iac Enthusiast

Maine-iac

Posted
  • Author
Posted
50 minutes ago, Snowcamo said:

If you have found debris it's likely the clutch pack wearing or tq guts. Id side more to clutch packs tho from the sounds of it. Any other issues to be noted?

The tech said that he didn't notice any metal shavings in the oil pan. The trans operation has been very consistent through this all except for a one minute duration of going through town. At about 25 mph it didn't want to shift down. Other than that the trans has been acting as normal. It has always had a slight slip here and there when going into third gear.

Maine-iac Enthusiast

Maine-iac

Posted
  • Author
Posted
3 hours ago, Bash74 said:

If you haven't flip the pill in the transline, then you need to. I wouldn't have flushed any thing and instead just changed the fluid and a new set of lines. Flush would have been my last step. Hopefully you get it worked out.

Sent from my SM-G975U1 using Tapatalk
 

I've always thought a flush was a last resort, but it's what the dealership wanted to do and I know nothing about trans. I saw a few videos about the delete and that is very doable. I think I saw that the new lines come with a new thermostat? I might start with the thermo delete and go from there. If anything I will do a de-grease, brake cleaner/air compressor clean out of those lines unless it isn't advised. Thank you!

Snowcamo Senior Enthusiast

Snowcamo

Posted
Posted
11 minutes ago, Maine-iac said:

I've always thought a flush was a last resort, but it's what the dealership wanted to do and I know nothing about trans. I saw a few videos about the delete and that is very doable. I think I saw that the new lines come with a new thermostat? I might start with the thermo delete and go from there. If anything I will do a de-grease, brake cleaner/air compressor clean out of those lines unless it isn't advised. Thank you!

Yeah man I'd bet clutch packs for sure. Ugh that sucks dude. That's where the slip comes from

Maine-iac Enthusiast

Maine-iac

Posted
  • Author
Posted
12 hours ago, CamGTP said:

Seems like the inline thermostat isn't doing it's job.

 

I agree with the above, do the thermostat mod and see if things get better.

What exactly does flip the pill mean? Am I literally flipping part of the thermostat, or am I removing the springs etc.?

CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

Posted
Posted

Skip to the 3 minute mark of this video, this is all you need to do. He is replacing the whole assembly but you only need to remove the thermostat block from the transmission and lines.

 

 

  • Like 2
Maine-iac Enthusiast

Maine-iac

Posted
  • Author
Posted
2 hours ago, CamGTP said:

Skip to the 3 minute mark of this video, this is all you need to do. He is replacing the whole assembly but you only need to remove the thermostat block from the transmission and lines.

 

 

Thank you very much for the reply. So I ended up finding a similar video and got my "pill flipped". Everything is back together and my trans now runs between 135°-150°. Thank you all for your suggestions. Sometimes I forget how helpful this forum can be. ??

  • Like 3
BCMoto Enthusiast

BCMoto

Posted
Posted
10 hours ago, Maine-iac said:

Thank you very much for the reply. So I ended up finding a similar video and got my "pill flipped". Everything is back together and my trans now runs between 135°-150°. Thank you all for your suggestions. Sometimes I forget how helpful this forum can be. ??

Do you take the whole assembly or did you take off the block and do it under the truck and put it back on? And it you took it completely out did alot of fluid leak out?

Maine-iac Enthusiast

Maine-iac

Posted
  • Author
Posted
6 hours ago, BCMoto said:

Do you take the whole assembly or did you take off the block and do it under the truck and put it back on? And it you took it completely out did alot of fluid leak out?

You take the thermostat housing right off. I would say about one ounce of fluid comes out. It requires a 13mm wrench or socket, pliers, and a good snap ring tool. I used the the interchangeable snap ring head to remove the C clips for the cooler lines. A pick would have been better suited. I brought the thermostat inside to do the flip as it can be a little easier than under the truck haha

  • Thanks 1
BCMoto Enthusiast

BCMoto

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, Maine-iac said:

You take the thermostat housing right off. I would say about one ounce of fluid comes out. It requires a 13mm wrench or socket, pliers, and a good snap ring tool. I used the the interchangeable snap ring head to remove the C clips for the cooler lines. A pick would have been better suited. I brought the thermostat inside to do the flip as it can be a little easier than under the truck haha

Thanks for the info and I have the tools and I'll just have to do it next weekend.

Eddie 70 Senior Enthusiast

Eddie 70

Posted
Posted
On 2/28/2021 at 10:26 AM, BCMoto said:

Thanks for the info and I have the tools and I'll just have to do it next weekend.

Your transmission will have much lower temperatures. I took my truck on 300 mile round trip last Thursday to pick up a rear axle for my DD. 150 miles ups the interstate running 70-75 MPH. Temp never got above 145.

Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted

I've been running delete for a few years now.

Purrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.

:driving:

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,965
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    DaleB
    Newest Member
    DaleB
    Joined

  • Who's Online   4 Members, 1 Anonymous, 1,503 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      No Software Updates - Old Build

      By Atlas · Posted

      If there are updates/fixes you want, you could pay to have the updates applied by the dealer.
    • DaleB
      No Software Updates - Old Build

      By DaleB · Posted

      Hi all - my current truck is a 2022.5 1500 High Country 3.0. I bought the truck used last year. After doing some digging, I noticed that my truck's software is stuck on the original build from 2022. I have no available software updates. I talked to my dealer about this and they recommended not trying to force an update since the 36,000 mile warranty is expired. This is a big bummer since there have been many major releases since that have fixed small issues and improved speed/usability.   For reference, the current software build number is: full_gminfo37_gb-user 10 W158E-W164.4.2-QIH22B-563.3 158 release-keys Has anyone had a similar experience? Should I just forget about it and move on, or try a different dealer?
    • B07
      Needing this part.

      By B07 · Posted

      Sure. Buy it for me 🤣
    • B07
      Needing this part.

      By B07 · Posted

      Using zip ties but 2-3 they snap due to sharp edges. Just using a shoestring. Last longer. 🤣
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      I ordered the Snap On...waiting for it to come in later this week or early next week.   New front cover, new crank seal and new balancer are on. Water pump, pulley, fan, hoses, and plastics reinstalled. I can move forward knowing all my timing marks are dead on and the front engine is hopefully sealed better than it was. Take 2 with the water pump...trying high temp thread sealer on the lower bolts.   Rebuilt injector and new-new regulator is in, it looks like new. Top intake reassembled and all the bits are reconnected and snugged down.   Thinking about knock sensors again, I located both of mine and, there's your problem, Francis... The driver's side one is broke, plastic is bashed in, part of the wire is bare, and it appears to have been damaged like that for a long time. I saw the wire but didn't think anything of it. The knock sensor might not be my pulled timing issue, but it sure looks suspect. It must still be conducting, otherwise I'd expect a CEL. But perhaps with its sacred crystal inside exposed, jilted and dirty, maybe it's sending mixed signals. So I'm waiting for one of those and a new pigtail to come in. Pass side sensor looks good, except for the spark plug wire resting on it (!). The plug wires are healthy so it shouldn't be causing an issue, but I separated them and added zip ties to nearby looms to keep everything well apart.   So, I'm down to installing a knock sensor AND, oh, replacing the exhaust and cat. I actually think that's going to be fairly easy, it's all bolt-together, all new stuff from Walker is laid out on the shop floor ready to go. Hopefully have this thing on the road again for the weekend.   My luck? It will still be leaking oil, coolant, pulled timing, intermittent CEL for running rich, or it probably won't run at all -- because that's how this project has gone.   I've never worked on a vehicle so ...hurt? ...cursed? in my life. Everything has been effed with SO HARD, but I think...knock on wood...I've managed to undo all the backyard stuff and we're almost reset back to "just" an 80k mile, 30 year old Blazer.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...