Bilstein 5100 front shock installation questions

Interleukin6 · March 19, 2021

My shocks (24-293297) will arrive soon. The dealer says they don't install aftermarket parts because of a warranty issue. Local shops ask $400~1000 for installation only. I watched YouTube and decided to do it by myself. I need to rent spring compressors, but also have a few questions. Mine is 2019 1500 WT crew cab 4x4 short box (I will keep the stock height).

1. How did you remove the top 3 nuts? It seems that there is not enough space to put a wrench/socket attached to a socket wrench/even torque wrench later. I took a loot at the engine bay to approach from the top but they look very busy many things blocking the nuts. Also. how did you remove the plastic parts holding wires sitting on the nuts (just pop them up?)? Any tips to do remove and retighten the top 3 nuts easily? Do I have to remove the wheel liners?

2. Did you loosen the sway bar link to make a little bit more play before taking out the shocks? or can I just skip this part?

3. Using spring compressors are most worrisome. If I use them correctly, is it going to be safe? Any tips? (I don't have 2nd car to bring them to a local mechanic)

4. the instruction on Bilstein website says "OEM Spring Seat (Resting on Supplied Bilstein Spring Seat Adapter)" This means the OEM spring seat has to be put on top of supplied Bilstein spring seat adapter? Stupid question but want to make sure.

5. Did you guys use the supplied Bilstein flange lock nuts (1 for top and 2 to the bottom) or just the OEM flange lock nuts? From my research, the Bilstein flange lock nuts sometimes give noise and also has less torque spec at 19 ib/ft than original 37 lb/ft. I want to use the OEM nuts with 37 lb/ft torque. Which way should I go?

6. Is alignment optional/recommended or must to be done after installation? If my truck drives well, can I skip?

Thank you.

Edited March 19, 2021 by Interleukin6

andrewb24 · March 19, 2021

For the top strut nuts I used an 18mm ratchet style wrench to take off the nuts and tightened up as much as I could by hand and then checked them again after a trip or two. You can get an impact wrench with an extension in from the top if you move some things around like the air filter box on the driver side. The plastic pieces attached to the top strut bolts will pull off the bolt and you can lift up enough to get ratchet wrench in there and/or you can move them to the side if coming from the top with impact wrench. I am pretty sure you will have to remove the sway bar to make enough room to get the strut out so just make sure the hub or lower control arm has a jack under it when you take the sway bar nut off so you can slowly lower knuckle slowly until you have enough room to get strut out. You will have to jack the knuckle back up to get the sway bar bolt back on lower control arm and get the nut back on.

You'll want to take the axle nut off with a 36 mm socket and push axle where it will move freely through the hub (i had to tap mine with hammer a couple of times to make sure it was loose when moving the knuckles around to avoid over extending the axle. jam a pry bar between the wheel studs while using a cheater bar to break the axle nut loose if you dont have an air impact wrench.

not sure about the other questions. Might as well raise the front if the billstiens are adjustable to level the truck and you will need alignment for sure if you raise it.

Gangly · March 19, 2021

8 hours ago, Interleukin6 said:

1. How did you remove the top 3 nuts? It seems that there is not enough space to put a wrench/socket attached to a socket wrench/even torque wrench later. I took a loot at the engine bay to approach from the top but they look very busy many things blocking the nuts. Also. how did you remove the plastic parts holding wires sitting on the nuts (just pop them up?)? Any tips to do remove and retighten the top 3 nuts easily? Do I have to remove the wheel liners?

Socket with extensions and they come out easy peasy.

8 hours ago, Interleukin6 said:

2. Did you loosen the sway bar link to make a little bit more play before taking out the shocks? or can I just skip this part?

I disconnected the sway bar link. It takes an extra 30 seconds to take it completely on and off and will give you a lot more working space.

8 hours ago, Interleukin6 said:

3. Using spring compressors are most worrisome. If I use them correctly, is it going to be safe? Any tips? (I don't have 2nd car to bring them to a local mechanic)

Compress the springs evenly and there are no issues.

8 hours ago, Interleukin6 said:

4. the instruction on Bilstein website says "OEM Spring Seat (Resting on Supplied Bilstein Spring Seat Adapter)" This means the OEM spring seat has to be put on top of supplied Bilstein spring seat adapter? Stupid question but want to make sure.

I don't have Bilstein shocks so I cant confirm, but this sounds correct regarding the process for my suspension install.

8 hours ago, Interleukin6 said:

6. Is alignment optional/recommended or must to be done after installation? If my truck drives well, can I skip?

For me, and most others, its considered a mandatory step, and having a lifetime alignment from Firestone for $100+ makes its silly not to. However, if your budget is too tight, its only optional, but HIGHLY suggested. Without and alignment, your tires will wear out faster, in an uneven manner creating lots of road noise, and the vehicle will most likely have adverse handling affects from the lift along with drastically premature wear patterns. Again, its optional, but its HIGHLY recommended to get an alignment for your safety, those riding with you, and for others on the roadways that you travel on. It really sucks when $1,000-$1,500 sets of tires wear out in 10-15k miles because you didn't spend a considerably smaller amount on an alignment.

Gangly · March 19, 2021

8 hours ago, andrewb24 said:

For the top strut nuts I used an 18mm ratchet style wrench to take off the nuts and tightened up as much as I could by hand and then checked them again after a trip or two. You can get an impact wrench with an extension in from the top if you move some things around like the air filter box on the driver side. The plastic pieces attached to the top strut bolts will pull off the bolt and you can lift up enough to get ratchet wrench in there and/or you can move them to the side if coming from the top with impact wrench. I am pretty sure you will have to remove the sway bar to make enough room to get the strut out so just make sure the hub or lower control arm has a jack under it when you take the sway bar nut off so you can slowly lower knuckle slowly until you have enough room to get strut out. You will have to jack the knuckle back up to get the sway bar bolt back on lower control arm and get the nut back on.

You'll want to take the axle nut off with a 36 mm socket and push axle where it will move freely through the hub (i had to tap mine with hammer a couple of times to make sure it was loose when moving the knuckles around to avoid over extending the axle. jam a pry bar between the wheel studs while using a cheater bar to break the axle nut loose if you don't have an air impact wrench.

not sure about the other questions. Might as well raise the front if the billstiens are adjustable to level the truck and you will need alignment for sure if you raise it.

Great info.

Additional Pointers:

1. For the driver's side shock, I didn't remove the air box since the driver's side shock tower nuts (3) can be easily accessed from inside the fender well with the tire removed. I used a Milwaukee M12 impact wrench on 2 of the 3 bolts to make it super quick and a wratchet wrench on the third since I couldn't get to it with the M12.

2. To get the axle out of the hub, tap the end with a RUBBER hammer. If you hit the threads on accident with a steel hammer you might not be able to get the axle nut back on, been there and done that on another vehicle.

3. If I remember correctly, I didn't need to remove the nut all the way off of the axle, I simply backed the nut off to the end of the threads and had plenty of room to maneuver the axle for the shock install.

Good Luck!

BlancoSilverado · March 19, 2021

Not to be rude,

If your asking questions about how to take off 3 nuts off the shock tower, I do not believe you should be wrenching on your truck. I do wish you the best of luck.

1) Personally i would make sure the suspension is at full drupe and then just go in there with a ratchet wrench for the top three nuts.

2) You can skip this step if you are doing both sides at once.

3) Once i compress my springs i use multiple zip-ties to told the tool to the spring.

6) I would get one, you changed the height in some way (up or down).