Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I want to add a camera to my front grill that works on radio screen like factory.  I have a backup camera and the trailering guidance camera now.  I have a price of about $800 for a kit that will do this and thats with me installing it.  Is there any less expensive option?  is it hard to install? has anyone done this and what did you use?

Posted

if you have a bedview camera you can upgrade your video processing module to the 360 one and have birdseye view.  relatively easy and oem level function.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 4/29/2021 at 4:46 PM, Rally6.2RST said:

if you have a bedview camera you can upgrade your video processing module to the 360 one and have birdseye view.  relatively easy and oem level function.

 

I don't have a bed view camera but wish I did kind of because I'm always paranoid on trips if something flew out the back that I cant see without getting out or running all over road to try and stretch where I can see. lol

Posted
On 5/8/2021 at 1:16 PM, methehero said:

What kit did you purchase? I'm looking to add a front camera and would like it to work with the current installed system 

I havent purchased one yet but looking at MVI where you add the camera to the front and then a module of some kind in the dash.  

Posted

Having the bed view camera undoubtedly means that you will have at least the 5 channel VPM mounted behind the rear seat. Having a VPM in this location is the base requirement for being able to install other cameras using factory installation methods.
 

But what if you have the Advanced Trailering Package that has the HD Rear Camera and also the Second Hitch View Camera? Do these two cameras plug into a VPM behind the rear seat? Or, do they plug directly into the Infotainment head unit near the front passenger footwell? 
 

Is having a third camera (bed-view) the minimum to have VPM module installed from the factory on the truck? 
 

The infotainment head unit module is certainly programmed differently if you have the bed-view camera because the user interface is different (looks a lot like the menus if you have 360 surround vision). 
 

When you only have the the two (rear camera and hitch view camera) there are only three menu options on the infotainment camera screen (rear view, gridlines/hitch guideline, and top-down hitch view).

 

Posted

I'm pretty certain trucks that have only hitch and view rear view do not have a VPM and this plugs directly into radio.  

I think it may be possible to upgrade these trucks with a new/used radio from a VPM truck.  

 

I was testing a used VPM today from a short bed truck, I have a regular bed. They are not VIN locked.  There was some distortion with front cam. If you drive it will recalibrate.

20210516_125116.jpg

20210516_124916.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, Rally6.2RST said:

I'm pretty certain trucks that have only hitch and view rear view do not have a VPM and this plugs directly into radio.  

I think it may be possible to upgrade these trucks with a new/used radio from a VPM truck.  

 

I was testing a used VPM today from a short bed truck, I have a regular bed. They are not VIN locked.  There was some distortion with front cam. If you drive it will recalibrate.

20210516_125116.jpg

20210516_124916.jpg


i wonder if you could unplug the hitch view camera and plug in a front view camera in its place on the head unit.


Then, on the menu screen, when you press the hitch view soft button you would get the front camera view. If it works, this would be a good option for people who would really prefer a front camera rather than seeing the top down hitch view, which is really only meant to check your trailer hitch connection while driving. 

Edited by Z06JPB
Posted

The rear view image and the hitch view image come from the same rear view cam so there is only one video coax running from rear cam to radio that controls rear view and hitchview(just a zoomed up rear view).  If you look quickly at your handle you might think there are 2 cameras there but there is only one.  There is a camera on the left the round thing on the right is a led light.  

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 5/17/2021 at 5:33 PM, Rally6.2RST said:

The rear view image and the hitch view image come from the same rear view cam so there is only one video coax running from rear cam to radio that controls rear view and hitchview(just a zoomed up rear view).  If you look quickly at your handle you might think there are 2 cameras there but there is only one.  There is a camera on the left the round thing on the right is a led light.  

I too only have the reverse camera but today I was looking at my radio module and I saw that there were a group of 4 coax connectors two used (I think for the antenna and shark fin antenna) but also another pair of coax connectors separate from the other group both of these had cables connected, I unplugged each while the camera was displayed, one coax was in fact the reverse camera but the other coax had no affect on anything, yet it was still plugged in. could this other coax be for front view? was the cable ran with another harness just not used?

Posted

That coax is a gps antenna or wifi antenna or onstar.  You need to have a video control module to have a front cam.  I think it could be possible to add a VCM by tapping into GMLAN 5060, power, ground and run camera lines.  Maybe a WAMS radio too.  Probably would need ios/iot radio not ior.   Would be interesting to find out if it can be done.  I added oem front cam to my truck but I had a VCM from having the trailer cam package (bedview, rearview and 2 trailer cam plugs) so all I needed was to run the coax lines to cams.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...