Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So my truck has been having issues turning over, and when I get it turned over you can hear the relay under the steering column clicking making an awful clicking and grinding sound , I could feel it clicking when i put my fingers on the relay and when I banged on the center part of the steering wheel it would start rattling worse. So I swapped out the relay and drove it around for a day with no sign of that awful sound but by the end of the day it didn't wanna turnover again. So I got the relay out and inspected where each of the wires was goin, it seems that two wires are headed to this part in pic C and E that looks a bit corroded on one end, so next step would obviously be replacing that except for I am not familar with what this part is, but perhaps I should buy some of these wires(that are reachable) and replace them too. So if any of you gentlemen could be so kind as to help me identify these parts i'd certainly be grateful. Thanks

I've included pics of the relay and each place the wires end up.

 

I'll go over each pic again here so hopefully something catches one of your eyes

1st pic my finger is on the brown wire that leads to the yellow joint to yellow wire that leads to the back of the fuse box
2nd pic my finger is on the other brown wire that leads to the yellow joing to white wire that leads to bottom of steering wheel
3rd pic is the junction ive mentioned with the corrosion on the far right end as you can see between the black and white parts
4th pic reveals the 3 white wires on each side of the relay, the white wire on the left leads to the corroded juntion; 1 white wire on the right is the 2nd white wire that is plugged into the corroded junction and the other wire from that plug on the relay leads to the yellow joiner at the top of the pic that forms a T when met with the top red wire that leads under the steering and to the fuse.
5th pic is the corroded junction
6th pic is the relay

THANKS guys

 

PIC-A.jpg

PIC-B.jpg

PIC-C.jpg

PIC_D.jpg

PIC-E.jpg

RELAY.jpg

Posted

That looks like some type of aftermarket relay. It may be part of an alarm system immobilizer. Personally I’d remove it and diagnose it that way. 
 

that being said often relays will chatter over your battery voltage is real low. You may have a couple items as problems and not just the one. 

Posted

THanks for your reply jnissen! So heres a better pic of where the wires lead too. Do you think I should disconnect the brown wires from the yellow, and connect the yellow to each other. My battery is new, also should I unplug the pos batt terminal if I do that? 

 

Also the bottom pic shows a junction of wires, the brown and the yellow just connect to each other,

the gray goes into the relay, the white goes into the relay, the red meets a 10ampfuse joining it to the other red wire thats sitting on the brake release and it goes to a big bundle of wires traveling over where the brake pedal is. and then the black just goes to this trailer hitch device i dont use. So it is seems like 3 or 4 of the wires goin into that junction are useless and no need to attach to relay. This I think confirms what your saying about someone adding all this crap, so maybe i can do away with it all, and recconect the yellow wires?

relay2.thumb.jpg.ebc6bd9855854b6135146f5354200036.jpg200.thumb.jpg.612c75a5887085889b5a45238bcec36b.jpg

Posted

lol yeah that is someone adding that for sure.  No way that is factory.  And it looks like a pretty bad job at that.  Do you have a remote start aftermarket in your truck?

Posted

oh that is a aftermarket security, if you remove the black half circle it breaks the starter wire. simple security for used car sales.  I pulled them out all the time when installing remote starts. the small yellow factory wire is your starter wire. remove everything and make a good connection when reconnecting the yellow wires back together.

  • Like 1
Posted

Oh man thank you, ive been trying to figure out what that half circle is . So heres a better picture of where all the wires lead to and what connects to the half circle. The yellow and brown wires coming from the half citcle connect to themselves. The red wire that connects to the fuse leads to a big bundle of wires above the break pedal, the black wire grounds to the metal, the grey wire connects to the relay, and the white wire connects to the double pronged connector on the relay. So that explains for all the wires connected to the relay except for the 2 brown wires, so is it those two wires i should remove  so that those yellows can be connected. 

 

Also I dont have any remote devices.

 

IMG_9918.thumb.jpg.e55763eff4643b10a1b8ad803cc56df9.jpg

Posted

AK_grown hats off to you my friend!!! You saved my tail big time! THANK YOU. I disconnected the half circle, and connect the yellows after ripping the joints off. Only thing left is the red cable that does god knows what. But all that matters is she fired up like a beast, and is ready to rumble. What a relief man, ive taken it to 3 mechanics and spoken to four more, nobody knows a damn thing these days! I included a picture of the clump of the wad of wires i disconnected ... anything else you notice that might be off, i reckon i should properly connect the yellow wires w something better than the electrical tape soon, and figure out where the red goes, i just took the fuse off it. ANyways, thanks again man, im happy as can be.

 

fixed.thumb.jpg.dc9de8eb1e132e0861fac595bbc35749.jpg

Posted

good to hear! the red wire should be a constant 12v. if you track it down to where they connected it, and most likely used a t-tap style connector.  and, yes please ensure you have a good connection with you yellow wires since that is your starter wire. if you do not feel comfortable soldering, a "western union splice" will hold up for a while .

 

i don't know how to add a pic so here is a link for the splice type.

 

https://www.sn95forums.com/threads/the-ultimate-electrical-splicing-post.70366/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Okay boys and girls I put a bottle of this in Dizzy the oil burning guineapig after a tank between the coil and plug service of the #3 hole and near the end of the first R&P 5W30 attempt. As a note I did a two R&P oil changes back in October of 2025 with little effect. Granted they were 1K mile a shot oil changes so.... Then followed by fourteen  1K mile changes of Mobil 1 Euro 5W30 FS. Also ineffective.    Anyone who has followed the adventures of Dizzy may remember that to put the oil on the full mark of the published nominal 5 quart change I withhold about a cup of oil. That over the last 50K miles the P0420 light has been a frequent flyer, sometimes three of four a day. And that even on 93 octane fuel she registers some KR even in moderate conditions on favorable days on slight inclines. Lastly when giving her a kick in the pants, something done about once a week, she looks like a diesel with the pump turned up. 😬   After one bottle and over the last 500 miles of a 3K mile OCI, of the first oil change I dropped the nastiest looking oil ever in her history. That's saying something as  you will recall I have used AutoRx, HP EC30/40 and a few other harsh solvents in her before including the GM top soak twice. This was syrup. Black stinky, inky syrup but the filter wasn't all that bad.    On the second fill I had to use the entire 5 quarts to reach the full mark. That was unexpected! The ignition KR is completely gone! Even at 99% engine load. MAP is much lower. Level road is now 9.8 instead of 12.5. Fuel economy is remarkably higher and for the first time since her earliest days she will spin to 6500, more than a thousand higher with out laying down dead. Yes, the coil and plug had something to do with that but remember the first 2500 miles after that repair on the first change it was same ole same ole Dizzy. Seems we have top rings that are somewhat functional again. P0420 code only comes on now if run in town for more than an hour of stop and go. On the open road it goes weeks without a incident. Perhaps it is cleaning the cat on the pass through?  Fuel Trims have improved as well. Nothing not to like.    To early to say about oil economy but the changes to date in the operational aspect is remarkable. I can't think of a worse case than Dizzy.... It's already paid for itself in a few tanks of fuel with the mpg improvement.    @OnTheReel, I'd say if the Jeep didn't respond perhaps there wasn't an issue to respond to.    I've run the Red Line SI-1, AMSOIL fuel cleaner, GUMOUT and Techron all in this SUV without any such results. Color me impressed. I'll be running out my supplies of the list mentioned and moving on to the Valvoline R&P Fuel System Cleaner.     
    • Hey Chuck !!Thanks for the all the info I'm an old fart and I have everything I need for the oil change at home,minus flexibility .... and I’ve been doing my own oil changes for 40 years. I just didn’t want to end up without a crush washer or with the wrong one in my stash and have to walk to the auto parts store, lol. I climbed under the truck to check the location, and man, it’s going to be the easiest oil change and filter swap in the last 40 years—right up there with my 2014 Mitsubishi Outlander 2.4. No mess, nothing to drip on—just perfect. I’ve got one more free oil change to use, and then that’s it with the dealership!
    • I think this subforum was created for the new generation pickup trucks (2027-) with the 3.0 but I don't think it's a big deal either way. There are probably 2027 model-year specific changes for the SUV's too.   I was just curious if you had issues with your 2025 3.0. I'm still under 10k miles on mine and fingers crossed I don't have thrust bearing issues. I'm guessing not, since you're willing to buy another one! It's a good engine minus one or two manufacturing whoopsies.
    • Wife has enough metal in her she hides from the scrapper. 
    • Djannoyed was a one hit wonder. Posted and disappeared. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...